tlorber

Thanks for the advice guys. I really appreciate it.

Someone here mentioned that on the 5 speed, one of them was to lean the mixture out in 4th and 5th gears for the later year cars. Obviously on a 71 there was no such feedback mechanism.

For a '73, does anyone have a procedure/sequence for repainting the hood and B pillar emblems. The Hood emblem is plastic and the B pillars are metal. Crome is in good condition and all have the pins. I'm wondering if it is better to paint with a brush, or spray paint. If you spray paint, do you mask or remove overspray with a rag and paint thinner? Also, a close up of the hood emblem would be helpful, since I don't know which parts are supposed to be black. Thanks.

Glad to hear that you guys got out.

Good Man!

Since you've done the L thing, since the car is not numbers matching, and since we could all use more power, I say go for the RB. Just make sure to upgrade the brakes to match.

I had mine done here. http://www.nhspeedometer.com/ They do nice work.

Not sure if it will work, but keep in mind that it is a 40 year old device that is probably plagued by the same problems that yours has (assuming you still have one). Most of those that do still work are not all that accurate.

I tried measuring resistance on each (11 of them) in my '73 tach. I even tried replacing 2 of the resistors. Ultimately, since I wanted to keep the original tach I had it rebuilt. They basically replaced the entire guts with modern solid state. It is more accurate than the original was, and will accept a signal from either the original distributor , an electronic dizzy, or pertronics type ignition. It looks original but is dead on as compared with a timing gun. It cost me $175.00.

Actually, you can still see the marks from where the flywheel was resurfaced. This would suggest that there was not a lot of a lot of slipping between the disk and the flywheel. Are you saying that the car WAS drivable at some point since you've owned it?

So...while we're on the topic again, do you guys use one for your Z's?

April is a tough month. Targa California April 7-9th. Solvang at the end of the month and now this. I'm already on thin ice with the wife. How oh how will I work this in?

Changing your screen name might help too!

Bonzai, When your friend welded, do you know where he put the welds, and how he accessed them? I welded my hinges this morning and was looking inside the car. I feel like I will be frying everything only to get some marginal tack welds on there.

Wow, "one of the most exhausting cars I've ever come across" "C-" "3 out of 10". Not exactly a stellar review.

The cheapass screws that were holding mine on seemed to work ok.

Bonzi, I'll put my '73 on the list as the 7th car. My strut bracket was held on with 2 screws. I'll have to figure out whether I'll weld it or just bolt it back on.

I plan on welding this up on Friday. I took a couple of before pics, and I'll shoot some after ones. Not sure if I'll be able to post though. I don't think that this will be a huge deal to fix, but I've been wrong before--twice, in fact.

I have an MSA 6 into one on my car. It is not too loud, but could be made a bit quieter by putting on a different muffler. I believe most of the noise that is there is due to the muffler. I'm also in the process of applying carpet padding onto the rear of the interior plastic panels to block out both exhaust and road noise. I think this will be worth the 2-3 lbs gained on the car. The panels no longer have that "tinny" plastic sound.

There is a place called Sunrise Z. http://www.sunrisez.net/ They are in Glendale. I've never used them, but I met the owner, Art. All they work on is Z's.

Zbiscuit, I have a set of these in 14" with good rubber. I'm up in the SFV. Let me know if you have an interest.

Thanks for the input guys. Chris, that IS the piece and that weld looks similar to what a PO had done. The metal began to tear at the bottom of the weld. As I mentioned above, beneath the surface metal is a thicker piece. Since my first post, I have ground it down and also drilled out some holes in the middle of the mount. I will try welding some beads to the thicker metal and also performing my own "spot welds" in the center of the mount. Everything else is fine with the hatch, so I don't think this warrants a change over (new paint, alignment etc). I would imagine that most hatches are fatigued in a similar manner-no doubt due to the tailgate strut. This problem is much worse on the driver's side, but since its off, I'll probably try to repair both.

Since you have the diff open, can't you just measure the diameter of the ring gear? My understanding is that that is what the differential designation refers to. 20mm's is slightly under an inch, so it should be clear whether you have a 160 vs. 180.

Has anyone here ever had to weld the hinge brackets back onto the Hatch? I have noticed a bit of slop in the operation of the hinges for a while. Well, today, one thing led to another and I ended up removing the hatch. It turns out they had been welded by someone in the past to try to repair the problem but it was not the best weld. The surface metal that they were factory spot welded to is very thin. Beneath this top layer is another layer of metal that seems a bit thicker but the two layers are independent-at least in this location. It looks like I'll need to drill out the hinge bracket to create some new spot welds, but I just wanted to know if any of you have had to deal with this. Thanks. Todd

OK Leon. You have 2 months to get the car roadworthy. Email me at tlorber@naicapital.com and I'll get you the flyer. If you really like DRIVING your car, you'll want to check this out. If for some reason you can't do the whole 3 days you could just tag along for part of it. On the second day we usually get up to Carmel and Monterey to look at some car collections.