tlorber

I just went through this on a '73 with the same symptoms. When choked, the nozzles were not pulling down far enough (if at all) so the mixture was not rich enough. Once I made sure the nozzles dropped, the car started. Hopefully your issue is as simple.

You may have seen on this site, or if not you soon will, that a common swap for '73's is to put '72 or earlier carburetors on in lieu of your existing "flat tops" that the two posts above refer to. These are a bit simpler and more reliable once you get them set up, and they allow you to bypass a bit of the smog equipment. Nevertheless, I think the flat tops have similar idle speed adjustment screws that you could try backing off to see if the idle speed comes down. One of the stickers on your air box may even show their location. Other than that you may have a choke that is sticking and causing the idle speed to be too high.

Thanks. I bought generic hose (still cost me $130.00) but I finished the job. Hopefully there will be no gas smell inside.

Very nice interior. More pics would be good.

Quick update...I replaced all fuel lines, refurbed the carbs and got her running (with oil that I drained from my other Z-call it a transfusion, and a battery "borrowed" from my roadster). Took her to the gas station for her first fill in years. The motor runs and idles great and pulls hard, and the brakes are at least as good as my other car. I did notice a bit of clutch slippage, so a new disk is in the near future, but overall this seems to be a solid start. I hope to have have her roadworthy soon.

I'll check to see what I have next time I'm up there.

I may have a couple of patch panels at the shop that were taken off of good fenders if you need them. I'm not sure which side I have though.

Stephen, You should look at the actual vinyl samples before committing to a color. I remember when I was redoing mine, I thought that the "red" was a bit on the burgundy side for what I wanted, so Dean had the interior guy make me a set that was a slightly brighter, truer red.

In the last couple weeks I've seen some decent looking 240's in the Los Angeles Craigs list asking $5,000-$6,000. I'm talking like 4 or 5 of them. Kind of depressing actually, but for someone looking it is good news.

When I bought the replacement fuel lines for one of my tanks, the place where I bought them also does braided brake lines. The guy told me that for some of the less common fittings, they can just reuse the ones from the original lines and crimp the new lines onto them.

I don't know if you have a leaf blower at home, but if so, I would try the combination of running the car's fan on high, while putting the blower up to the vent intake just behind the grill. This may cause everything to be flushed out at one time.

I just had that issue on a '73 that I recently bought, with '72 carbs. It also would start with some brake cleaner shot into the carbs but would not run. In my case, the nozzles were not dropping properly when I pulled the choke lever. After refurbing the SU's and adjusting them (and making sure the nozzles were not sticking) the car starts and runs fine.

Hey, wait a second! Did you remove smog equipment? DMV may have something so say about that.

I bought a master cylinder from him and everything was fine-but I did go to his house. I don't think he's making any pretentions about being a full time parts distributor. Just speaking for myself, I was glad to get the part and it has worked out well.

The guy that puts it on (the disorganizer as he calls himself) is one of my clients. I can tell you that at the level he is running it, it is a lot of work. He has sponsors, clothing, events (laps at race tracks, viewing car collections along the way etc). It is a 3 day event and he caps it at around 110 cars-all pre 1975. My recommendation would be to start with a one day, low production event to keep it simple-schedule a lunch somewhere along the way. You need to put together a group that really likes driving, and you need some roads that you know and that are challenging. It is a non competitive event but we drive pretty hard. One thing I can't emphasize enough is that you need to exclude idiots. I'm not saying all teen agers fit this but you get the idea. If you have a successful event it will grow over time in size and scope. I wish there were more of these throughout the year. They always seem to load up near April here so it's hard to get many runs in. The Targa is definitely my favorite run of the year, which is why I was so bummed to miss it.

I hope to see you out on the road.

Nice acquisition-and great keeping it in the family. I think you'll like the 5 speed. Here's mine, although it is in desperate need of new paint. The main supplier for Roadster parts is near me and he's become a friend over the 20 years that I've had the car. Let me know if you need anything for it. His site is datsunparts.com (NOT to be confused with datsunpartsllc who some have had issues with).

Congrats on the car. I think I'd start by getting a Haynes manual. I remember back in college days when we'd be changing clutches on our Datsuns all the time, we'd joke about the Chilton manual. "Step 1, remove transmission." Make sure oil and coolant are good. Then check out brake cylinders/calipers, brake lines and brake fluid to make sure you can stop. Here is a good site to get factory manual information. XenonS30

I was signed up, PAID UP, and tuned up, and my wife got sick on Wednesday. It was either stay home with her and the kids, or risk divorce. This was the first Targa I've missed, and it almost pained me to see that video-but thanks for posting. If she gets sick next year I'm taking door #2.

I'm not saying NOT to buy Art's part. But when I had the problem I used ABS glue and fiberglass fabric to fix and reinforce the screw bosses that hold the choke bracket on. I have used those materials for numerous things around the interior and none of the repairs has failed yet.

Sorry to hijack...I just got back from Supercar Sunday, which was sponsored by Universal Nissan. They had a pristine silver Z (#222) and a 67.5 roadster. I'll try to post pics tomorrow.

Assuming your master cylinder is in good shape, there are 2 items that really helped my brakes. 1) stainless steel brake lines and 2) higher performance shoes and pads from Motorsport (not for the track, but upgraded from stock). Prior to these upgrades I had planned on installing the Toyota calipers, but now I feel it is unnecessary.

I have Miata seats in my 240. They hold you in WAY better than stock and the cloth is much more comfortable. I paid $40.00 at the wrecking yard for them , and around $12.00 for 2 cans of spray dye. I used stock 240 sliders and put a 1" tall aluminum shim under the rear of the seats since they sit a bit lower. I did not have to drill new holes into the seat base on the driver's side. On the passenger's side had to drill 2 new holes.

Yeah, given the hassle of removing the temp gauge, I'd only try that as a last resort. There is probably a resistance spec for the temp sender unit, but I don't know it off hand.