tlorber

No oil leaks. My motor (L28 in my 240) has a "Remanufactured by Nissan" tag on it. I doubt there are more than 10k miles on it but I have no way of knowing. Anyhow, I guess they did it right.

OJ, do you have Adobe on you machine? The article comes up fine on mine, but that could be because the scan is saved on my computer. If no one else is able to access it, let me know and I can email it. Perhaps someone else here would know how to post a pdf.

Here is the article scanned in pdf format. Classic Motorsport.pdf

I thought I had seen an '83 ZX tranny for sale in the LA area craigslist a few days back. You may want to try there. I do have a pedal box but I believe I will need it to convert an auto tranny car that I have. I will try to stop by later today on a guy that has a bunch of Z carcasses to see if he has one. Here, I just found this... http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/pts/3078749702.html Also thought this would be interesting for anyone looking for different ratio R180's. No affiliation nor representations intended here-just forwarding info http://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/3083027061.html

Hopefully the technologies that are successful on the track can one day be applied to the road. I'm all for private money being spent on things that may or may not work in order to experiment or advance a cause. It's when mandates or taxpayer money are deployed that I get peeved.

This may sound screwy, but would dampening the cardboard with a spray bottle enhance removal without crushing the liner?

I had been getting this magazine as part of my subscription to NASA but apparetly they are no longer sending it-otherwise I'd scan and post it here. Anyhow, I saw the July 2012 issue in a client's office and the cover article was about how Japanese cars are finally getting some respect as Collector Cars. They mention both the roadster and the Z, among other vehicles. I'm not saying this will solve your college tuition problems, but perhaps it is a start.

I don't own a 77 so I'm flying in the dark here, but are you sure it is a hollow cappilary? Normally when I've seen seen copper like that it has been in the context of temp control or sensing in refrigerators or A.C. units and they have been solid wire. I have one sitting at my shop from the beer fridge (that is now kaput) so I'll check when I get up there. Since it is at the end, you may be able to resolder it.

Mine was mushy and actually smoked when on for extended periods. I went through it twice. I then bought one from Dave Irwin (traded mine in). It's been great since.

Stephen, As long as you keep the fridge FULL, once cooled the beer will serve as a flywheel and keep the fridge cool (by the way, would light beer be like a lightened flywheel?). Since the thermostat is on the inside the fridge insulation will keep if from cycling too often. I do agree that a full sized fridge would be a waste of electricity-and space.

This one was up at the Solvang show the last time I was there.

I say, whatever the color, take as much as you can off the car before painting. That would mean drip rails, windows (windshields if possible) lights, grill, door latches, threshold metal, gaskets and seals, gas door,etc. The more of the car you paint, the more complete and original the job will appear. This WILL cost more to replace parts, but you will be happier when it is done.

Blue, Is that just for cosmetics, or does it change the sound as well? Also, are you sure that will clear the rear valence?

FSM calls for 1/16"-7/32" toe in. You cannot adjust camber or castor with stock components. Beyond being just plain embarrasing at the alignment shop "What do you mean you can't adjust castor on these cars?" I still don't understand why they did not engineer that in, but since you've already bought the parts I won't go back down that road.

You may want to check those torque settings. If it's the bolts I'm thinking of, my Haynes manual said 40 # which was way too much. I stretched the bolts and had to replace them. I retorqued to 15# I think.

Nice car-virgin. Looks like some ripples in the right front fender and door. If so, is it possible to get those out without messing up the paint (dent wizard)?

When you say "double bar", are you referring to the bumper with the bar that is bolted above the bumper?

I'm with the clean it and run it crowd. As long as you remove the debris, you won't cause any damage to the bottom end. That kind of gunk is not unexpected for a motor that has sat for a long time. After cleaning, I'd use a thin detergent oil and change it after 1,000 miles or so. Then pull the valve cover and see how things look

You may need to get a wire through first. Then shoot enough brake or barb cleaner through so that it drips out the other end. Then use compressed air.

Continued welding up the holes in my bumpers. A bit more grinding then it's off to the chroma. Also got some work done on the roadster's gas tank.

I guess I'd take either of them with the top down.

I was on the freeway yesterday and saw a hardtop Solstice. Either I'd only seen the ragtops or just hadn't noticed it before, but it really had the modern look of an early Z. Anyone know much about them?

I put techno toy tuning lca's and traction control arms on my car. Talk about overkill- the company owner told me they are engineered for off road rallying. I'll be diving under them during our next earthquake. The benefit is that you can adjust camber and castor, which corrects significant shortcomings in the stock version

Ok, keeping in mind that you want to economize on weight and volume, and assuming that your car has a jack, lug wrench and pressurized spare tire (remember that the lug nuts for the spare may be different from those on your other wheels) I pack the following; Tools Sockets 10mm-17mm +ratchet + extension Wrenches 8mm-14mm Adjustable (crescent) wrench +channel lock pliers+ lineman's pliers with wire cutter Standard and Phillips screwdrivers Utility knife 2" length of 1.5" dia. copper pipe + 2 hose clamps (for splicing ruptured radiator hose). Hammer Flashlight and/or headband light Supplies Duct tape and electrical tape Rags and paper towels Thin rubber gloves 1 gallon water and 1 qt oil Small bottle of brake fluid Bailing wire (yes, I have had to use it) Appx. 4' length of tubing suitable for fuel Small length (appx. 12") of 2x4 Old Sheet in case you need to lay on the ground I generally pack the tools in a small flexible cooler I have. That way I don't have to hear them rattle around. I pack the tools liquids and wood behind the passenger's seat, you do NOT want this stuff lying in the back because it WILL slide when you are throwing the car through turns. Hopefully you won't have to use any of this, but there will be someone on the run that will if you are driving hard. If you have space there are other things you may want to take (I have a spare slave cylinder in the glovebox) but you have to draw the line somewhere.

I agree on the fuel pump issue. You could either try a new mechanical one or go to an electric pump. With the electric, at least you know the bowls will be full before cranking.