Leeroy

Ok....bit of a home handyman job...either you can buy an oil breather tank (AU$150+), or you can make your own. When I fitted my aftermarket filters, I struck the same problem (though I was going to do it at the same time, so I guess I didn't really strike a problem...ahem...) so I made my own. Just get something made out of aluminium, stell etc that is hollow and has a removeable part (so you can empty it!). Now, find a mount point somewhere (mine was on the engine bay wall, where a small hole was already there), make a small mount out of alu. strap so as to attach it to. Now to prepare the breather...drill about 10-12 2mm holes in it at the top (to form the breather), and next to (or close to at least) the breather holes drill a hole big enough to fit a 10mm irrigation fitting through (get this from a hardware store). Rivet/screw/weld the irrigation fitting in and then bolt it into your engine bay, clamp the breather hose to the breather tank and voila!! Looks good, works well, and is track legal!:classic:

Yeah...should fit up no prob..and if it doesn't it'll be sold again really quick for more!! trust me! Cheers ppl, best of luck with it by the way...

Got to say something here...what the hell are you all going on about? Who the hell spends this much time trying to pronounce letters? Does it really matter how we say it? Just because americans can't pronounce things properly doesn't mean that we all have to suffer (this excludes you mike:classic: )!!!! Z is pronounced ZED not ZEE, sesame street was wrong!!! but if we are arguing about things, how come aussies say car as 'caa' and yanks say it as 'are' with a c in front...the world is screwy, but at least we still have our beautiful dattos!!! Cheers ppl, stop wasting your time, because us aussies are right anyway! Any country that has animals as intelligent as koalas must be right!!!!

I think this has to be said, and I hope others feel the same... In a world where terrorists, insane gunmen and religious wars abound, it is good to see that though many things may tear us apart, such a small a thing like cars can bring us all together. My heart goes out to you our friend as I, and I am sure most of us have experienced much the same thing (my brother shattered his back after riding off a 40ft cliff straight into a rock quarry. He was but a few heartbeats away from dying as I was next to him). I know that she will pull through it with flying colours and soon you'll be chatting about frivolous day to day things like they mean all the world...it takes something like this to bring our lives into perspective, and I hope that we'll be hearing all the good news soon.

Took your advice and got up early too pull apart my car...didn't fix it...so I went and checked the price on a replacement switch, only A$55...but since I just read that even though I checked all the fuses I should still replace them (I'm gonna do that tomorrow and then I'll replace the switch if it doesn't work), I think i'll do that. Anyone else who can give their 2c is welcome...all the advice i can get helps, but this should fix the problem (I'm hoping). Cheers guys, I'll keep you posted!:classic:

I'll try that tomorrow morning...its really pissing off, I have to use streetlights to check my speed(!!). The taillights won't come on with the headlights on now, only when the brake is on. Hope it works...will report back soon...:classic:

Cheers...thats the only thing I possibly thought it was, but I wasn't sure how its all wired...thanks for the input...anyone else have any other ideas (though this sounds like it). Cheers

Whilst being the first to admit I'm not an expert on cars, I will also say that I have a fairly extensive knowledge of most things car...but this is one thing that I have no idea about... Ok, my headlights and my dash lights. When I turn them on at first the head and dash lights were fine, then a couple of weeks ago my dashlights would 'flicker' on and off when they were just turned on (for a couple of seconds). Now the lights don't go on at all and my low beams are doing the same...is a virus eating my electrical contacts...now, it can't be a fuse or a wire thats come loose...so WHAT THE HELL IS IT!!! If anyone could help, it would be appreciated cause I have no idea where to start! Cheers in advance!:classic: PS I have a 75' 260 2+2

No disrespect...but man, someone has too many ideas and far, far too much time...is it a hotrod? A classic? A TVR speed 6? all I can say is this...money doesn't equal taste!!

Man I live in australia and see these pieces O' shite daily...the engines are old, the car is heavy, handles like a dog, what you want is a GTR N1 Skyline..now theres a beast...in australia holden (GMH) and ford have this huge rivalry due to the V8 supercar racing series over here, in which the only participants are ford and holden (see what i mean)...if u love ford, you have to hate holden...and vice versa. You don't want it, you're paying for shite...trust me...I like the guards though:classic:

IF you just want higher compression get a thinner head gasket, or get the head shaved...a whole lot easier than changing the crank!:classic: Cheers!

Seriously, I wouldn't bother with the carbs...if you turbo, go FI...you probably could use the carbs but reliability, power and fuel usage would all suffer...FI give the engine exactly what it needs when it needs it, carbs aren't anywhere near as good (I have carbs before you shout at me!). Best thing is to transplant an L28 turbo...much easier and cheaper and already comes with injection...or for a bit more guts an RB25DET from a gts skyline would be awesome... Just my 2c...good luck and let us know how you get on!:classic:

Ok...very strange...being fuel injected makes it harder...have you checked the sensor in the exhaust (is it MAP or EGO?...anyway...), check it..if it ain't clean or perpect, bin it and get a new one...I'm guessing that when you start it the computer tells the injectors to put in a set amount of fuel, but once you take it for a drive and then stop the sensor kicks in instead of preset values and completely porks the engine over (grey exhaust fumes mean excess fuel)... Just my 2c, hope it works out!:classic: Cheers ppl!

I have a 260 2+2 with standard head and seats, and I run it on PULP...never a prob, just don't using standard unleaded...its shite!:classic:

Agreed, L28 turbo by far the easier and cheaper option...if u did want to keep the L24 though, best to go with a T3 (garrett sizing), or something perhaps a little larger (though a T3 would be the most 'streetable' option. Get the engine rebuild with 8:1 compression pistons (or head gasket thickened), and for sure get FI (motec is best!). Get the injectors from a 13B rotary (or the manifold with injectors from a L28T (I think it fits?!)) and make a custom intake and you'll be laughing...oh, and fit at least a 3" exhaust...the bigger the better with a turbo engine... Or you could get an L28 (and fit a unichip piggieback computer to tune it properly(!))...know what i'd do!:classic: Hope this helps!(?) Cheers ppl!

I'm not saying that an RB30 or 26 wouldn't fit, I'm just saying for ease, power, weight and ready supply of inexpensive spares, an RB20 or 25 are best...26's fit but are less common, and 30's are heavier and more inefficient (the money spent on changing the head and getting a custom stud set + intercooler for it would be much better spent on other mods to the other engines). Just my 2cents...not discouraging anyone from anything (its all good! They're Z's, so its exceedingly difficult to make them 'uncool'), cause in the end its all about what the owner wants!! Cheers people!!!

Too heavy, too old...no rb30...the best fitment is an RB20DET from an R32 Gts-t...easy fit, fairly light and still plenty of room for power...RB25 and 26 does fit, but alot harder to fit, alot more expensive and if you fit the RB20 you can sit it far back in the engine bay which means more space under the hood for cooling, and better handling due to less weight over the front axle...so there! Hope this helps

You shiting, or are you serious...cause if you're serious, what a pisser!! Heres something better...my brothers' best mates dad (ok!?), used to be in the french foreign legion, special forces etc, and as such has absolutely no respect for authority...he also owns a Mitsu GTO (twin turbo 4WD 208kw[read: fast!]) import...needless to say he was stopped at a traffic light and saw a cop in an unmarked car, he then wound down his window and casually said to the cop "don't worry mate, I couldn't see you a mile away!". After the cop pulled him up he then threatened to charge him on some bullshit charge to which he replied, "Sonny, unless you want to be unemployed and embarrassed, back the **** up or i'll have you're badge on my desk in the morning!"...this has happened a couple of times including when he decided flipping off a speed radar operator would be a laugh...just though it was amusing...nice guy too, my brother is buying the GTO off of him...

26ounce, you're right...and in case anyone ever bitches about speed cameras, don't even think of living in Australia! The cameras in Victoria now get you for doing 3km/h(!!) over the speed limit even though the ADR's (australian design rules) state that all speedos can be within 10% tolerance...contradiction itself! Not only that, but when the victorian government was deciding what to do with the money designated for 'black spots', they decided that putting the $25 million (!!!!) into speed cameras would be a better idea to help stop fatalities and accidents! If that isn't the stupidest thing I have ever heard!!! And (surprisingly...) the number of accidents and fatalities has not decreased according, or even at all, due to the speed cameras placed in our roads. The pigs now have unmarked vehicles of all makes and models (and ages) on the roads with speed cameras setup on the front bumper (about 40cm long, 25cm tall and a couple of cms thick), so all they have to do is park somewhere, eat donuts for a few hours and get some fines...no-one even knows that they're there..pisses me off...and it must be dangerous because everyone has to constantly keep an eye on their speedo!!...sorry bout the long message...

Hard question...ok, heres trying... If I won that much money I'd have 3 classics... 1. 240z in sky blue with race seats, race harnesses and full roll cage with a red GT stripe flanked by 2 smaller white stripes, the # 23 on the bonnet and doors, 15" minilite rims powder coated white with polished deep dish inserts, full koni adjustable coil overs, front and rear strut braces, stiffer front and rear swaybars, full nolathane job...ok, now the engine: fuel injection L24 bored out 40thou, balanced and blueprinted, shotpenned crank, forged pistons and rods, deburred block, 272/270 cam (read:lumpy!), stiffer valve springs with 3 angle valve set, decompressed to 8:1 with a T76-33D ball bearing garrett hanging onto the 3 1/2" exhaust making in the vicinity of 800hp (and a ****eload of torque!!!) 2. 260z 2+2, jet black, deep dish WELD 17" billet wheels with DUMPED suspension, chrome anything that can be chromed, full black leather interior retrim, purple neons underneath the car, fuel injected L26 balanced and blueprinted, lumpier cam (but still quite docile) with a nice little stereo. 3. 260z, maranello red, lowered 2" with simmons F15 rims, stock engine (just fully balanced and blueprinted), with everything else bought back to better than new condition. So there! Oh yeah, and a spare 350z in the garage for going to fetch the milk.

Sorry its not a Z part, but anyway.... The stereo consists of thus; - X tant 404m amp with remote gain control - JVC 12" self illuminating subwoofer - Sony head unit The amp and the sub have never been used, and the head unit has been used (just upgraded it). Retail cost is well over $2000, and believe me I'm pissed I gotta sell it all, but going price is $900. I'm in melbourne, Australia (glen waverley) so give me a call or e-mail me: 0409-626-403 or bad_leeroy_brown@hotmail.com.

Okay...not an expert, but I know a fair bit about engine especially fuel injection...everyone here is right, fuel injection is WAY(!) better than carbs (I have carbs so I'm not bragging)...simply put, a carb is a mechanical form of injection using four different sensors/ways of determining fuel delivery and delivering it, it works off of what it thinks the engine should get, Fi uses a computer which for any given point in the rev range has a pre determined amount of fuel that it knows it has to deliver to the engine, this base figure then gets messed around a little depending on the a number of factors...this is the easiest way I can explain it without going into detail....BUT, as I probably should have said earlier, your cam (if fairly lumpy[which it will need to be to run 13's]) will make your idle really bad! Black smoke will be coming out for sure!! What I recommend is this: Build your engine and get everything fitted (for bulletproof engine, get it balanced and blueprinted!) and then take your original ECU to get either reprogrammed (cheapest, but not cheap), or get a piggy-back (ie Unichip) or stand alone ECU (ie Motec). Reprogramming will do fine (really, it will) and cheapest doesn't mean bad, but an aftermarket ECU is the best way to go. If you ever do anything in future or want everything to be easily tuned and accessed then this is the way to go. The unichip would be the easiest aftermarket ECU, and simply hooks up with the old ECU, but a Motec is the ultimate (read: Can be pricey!) ECU though. The original injectors should be fine if you keep it NA, but if you ever force it you'll want bigger ones....Hope this helps (sorry its so long!). Cheers!

Not being a bastard...but its du hast....anyway, wankers with the most stupid fuc%in stickers!! ie 'horn broken, watch for finger', 'get in sit down shut up hold on' etc This is what I like to call a cheap body kit...makes ppl look at you but gets either a) laugh reaction (idiots and ppl who drive ford falcons) or disgust reactions (most ppl, all z drivers)...and drift, LOVE DRIFT!! I used to drift my magna at 80km/h down dirt read (piece of ****e!), but now with my Z its tarmac everywhere!!! Drift rocks(!), and rain, I would have to say, makes me drive crazy (around good drift corners anyway!!!) Cheers ppl!!:classic:

Keep the heat in the exhaust!! Keeping the headers and upper exhaust hot is good because hotter air escapes faster and allows for more flow SO more power!! Having not used header tape I couldn't give an opinion, but I've heard fantastic things about it..also if you do want to use it there is some spray on paint that the same company provides to waterseal the tape and preserve it so that it lasts longer! Otherwise, the wrap works great (I also suggest that over the top of the wrap you bolt in a heatshield [thin piece of metal, at least 5mm away from the wrap] that directs the heat coming from the headers down and under the car...you can't reduce the heat the header makes, but you can choose where you wan't to put it, and not under your bonnet!!). Also, your header won't warp unless its heated enough to nearly melt it, or if after a fast run (whilst its still hot) you decide to throw icy water over it (hot + cold = bending/warping). 'Thermotec' heat management products are available pretty much anywhere, and are all good quality...so unless you're only into a particular product, I highly recommend that you try them!! Cheers!!:classic: PS Sorry about the long message, but I couldn't make it any shorter!!

Category 1!!! I'm 19 but like most of you have a maturity level of age 2...then again as soon as you hop into a Z all thought of constraint and being mature and environmentally minded goes straight out the window...is it just me, or is that how every1 else feels?