motorman7

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motorman7 last won the day on November 20

motorman7 had the most liked content!

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About motorman7

  • Rank
    ZCSD Webmaster

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  • Map Location
    San Diego CA
  • Occupation
    Design Engineer

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About my Cars
    Bought the 'family' 1970 240Z from my folks. My step-father was the original owner. He kept it in very good condition for 39 years. Will try to restore it and keep it in original condition as best I can. VIN is HLS30-02614 so its an early one.<br /><br /><br />
    <br /><br /><br />
    Purchased a Modified 71Z with an L26 motor. VIN is HLS30-40147<br /><br /><br />
    <br /><br /><br />
    Purchased an original '73. VIN 160608

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  1. Thanks for the quality check! Cleaned that up this AM. Interesting, as an engineer, I had to go back and determine why that area wasn't covered as I typically have the whole area taped off. Turns out, I usually use the 2" wide masking tape when taping off these areas. Turns out that my 2" wide tape roll was just about gone and getting a little old so it was difficult to work with. So, I used the new 1" wide tape roll for the masking. Obviously did not get good enough coverage. Also, multiple layers of the 1" tape over cavities does not stick well. So, bottom line is I need to go out and get a new roll of 2" tape. Got it from California-Datsun.com on e-bay for $35.99 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-True-Blue-Green-Original-Color-OEM-Engine-Block-Paint-Can/153656468818?hash=item23c6a3a552:g:HWAAAMXQDjhQ5cP1 Also, for the taillight panel I use the Ford shadow gray with and Matte clear overcoat. That usually works pretty well. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Krylon-BFM0360-Dark-Shadow-Gray-Ford-Exact-match-Automotive-Paint/48341749
  2. Installed the crank and pistons last night. All new standard size bearings and .030" over pistons. Head should be ready early next week.
  3. Yes, keeps it from rusting....and looks cool in the bare metal color.
  4. Got the block back from the machine shop. Head is waiting for hardened valve seats to come in. Got the block painted and freeze plugs installed. also finished rebuilding the second front caliper
  5. Yes, I am planning on sending the larger parts (fuel and brake lines, etc) and parts that have cavities, like the emission valves, to a local plater. In the past, the 'cavity items' have leaked during shipping and stained the other parts. Pick-up at the local plater for these large and unique items works better.
  6. Latest pics from the body shop. A lot of rust eaten areas here, though most are the usual culprits. These are not for the faint of heart. Glad the experts are working on this. It looks like the floor pans were replaced before. The (non-standard) installation method appears to be rivets and epoxy along with some bondo. Also looks like previous rust areas were not treated and just painted over, causing all the bubbles and holes in the paint. Miguel will be ordering replacement panels and sheet metal to weld in after cutting out the rusted panels.
  7. I haven't been hit by one, but did have one fly across the garage once. That was enough to cause me to put a lot of caution into this process. Did a bit more work on the brakes, adding rear brackets now that they have been plated. Had to clean out the holes for the brackets with a tap since they had the powder coat on the threads. Also spent a little time organizing the zinc parts so that things will be easier to find. Finished one disc caliper and half way through the second.
  8. The O-rings come with the caliper rebuild kit. Rebuild is not too difficult. Hardest part is getting the 'pistons' out of the caliper, especially if the car has been sitting for awhile. I typically put Kroil or PB blaster around piston edge and let soak for an hour. Then use compressed air to blow piston out of the caliper. That is the hard/scary part. Wear glasses and point piston away from body when doing this. I then use solvent to clean piston and cylinder, then light polish with 2000 grit sand paper. Blow compressed air through orifices to make sure they are clear
  9. Jay has them for you. Picked some up for my '73 build https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/body-exterior-parts-nissan-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/datsun-240z-1973-9-72-10-73-rear-bumper-horizontal-strip-sold-individually-nos
  10. Got the springs on the struts after cleaning and painting the top mount caps. Re-built both rear brake cylinders and installed new springs and shoes on rear struts. Also painted the differential. Started work on the front calipers. Also got my yellow zinc parts in today so now I can start the suspension assembly.
  11. It's like Christmas here....lots of parts coming in. Got the 'clear' zinc back from the plating shop. Also received more engine parts and suspension parts. Started installing shocks and will finish up the struts over the next couple days.
  12. No, this one is different. Actually, the entire manifold set-up is different and the intakes are definitely from an earlier model. I am planning on keeping the entire intake assembly as is, but would like to put the exhaust manifold from a 71-72 on this so it looks a bit more uniform, like a 72 motor.
  13. Still cleaning up parts here while I am waiting for the zinc plated parts to return from the plating shop. Got the engine re-build kit on order along with new brakes pads, shoes and their respective rebuild kits. So, should have a lot of stuff coming in over the next week.
  14. Yes, used wire wheels for clean-up. I have a number of different styles and used most of them. Will use the steel wool and phosphoric acid for final rear cover clean-up and shine. That seems to work well together. The mounting studs came out 'by themselves'. The locknuts seem to hold on to the studs better than the rear cover.