emccallum

After knowing you have good compression, I would be looking at ignition. I know you dont want to go there, but this simple tool may give some insight as to the offending cylinder. https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6?th=1

Beautiful work!

Thanks for the replies. I have found a couple of instances when the parts manuals didn't match what I thought was correct. I guess the FSM is the better document. I only use JIS hardware, and let me tell you, I have had to replace a lot of hardware that wasn't correct! I took a ton of spare hardware and had it replated along with other stuff. Between that and Belmetric it has been invaluable.

I have one of these, not this exact one, and it is very useful for adjusting valves, checking compression, etc. https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W80586-Remote-Starter/dp/B00OPVYHZ4/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=remote+starter+button&qid=1677800656&sr=8-5

I am putting my steering column back in. Wondering which way the coupler bolts go. My pictures prior to taking the car apart show the nuts towards the steering rack. When I look at the parts diagram it shows the nuts towards the firewall (#30,31,32). Just trying to figure out where my nuts go 🙂

More progress, I put a lot of time in this weekend.

You know you are in trouble when the shop asks "is it OBD1 or 2?"🤣

Making some progress putting it back together. I didn't like the way the fender and hood fit, so I decided to paint the inside and put it together enough to get it to a frame machine. Then go after the exterior bodywork. Not the ideal, but it is the next right thing to do. Two things I have learned over the years: You cant take too many pictures and never throw anything away! One other thing, aftermarket is never as good as the original.

I am pretty sure that is the same vendor I bought two skins from. I put them on myself and the fit was pretty good.

I may end up getting one of the fenders and will post up how it fits. Their rear taillight panel was very good. Their complete pre-bent brake hardline kit was pre-bent just not in the right places. Thank goodness I still had my old lines to reference.

Just got an email from resurrected classics. They have repro fenders, hatch, etc in stock. No clue as to the quality, but I was unable to find a fender from anyone else in stock when I was looking. I ended up making one out of two. No affliation with the company, except I have bought stuff from them that was good quality. Just thought I would share in case someone else was looking for them.

Made some progress. Big thanks to @Patcon for the rottisserie. Really a great way to work. I had trouble lining up the hood/fender. I think the strut tower was tweaked in a previous accident. My plan is to paint underside, inside, and engine bay, then put it together enough to get it checked out on a frame machine. Not ideal I know, but it's the next right thing to do.

That is way more legible than what I have. Thank you for sharing it!

Wondering if anyone has a good frame dimension chart on the 240? I have the one out of the FSM, but its a bit hard to read. I read in an old post that there was a large tIFF file floating around but I haven't found it. Thanks. I am trying to make it easy on the frame guy as most people tell me their stuff doesn't go back that far.

Beautiful! body looks really nice, I feel for the painter, he better bring his A game. What is your plan for the undercoating? Are you going to paint over the black with body color or leave it? I am trying to decide how I want to address that.

Mine were pretty green and with some polish came back to life pretty nice. You could clean them as best as possible and then try to touch them up with a chrome pen.

Too much free time on the internet! I am sure you can understand 🙂 Cant find the link for the defroster right angle terminals, but I think it was one of the motorcycle folks. If someone really needs it, I can probably find it. Found it, flag terminal: http://www.cycleterminal.com/flag-terminals.html

Thats a good start, with plenty to learn on! Looks like you may need the rear defroster and fuel level sensor terminals. Fuel sender: https://www.repairconnector.com/brass-female-lock-type-tab-connector-5-pack/

I was going through some pictures on worker B website and thought of you.

This looks similar to what you have. Forced induction. You can see the plumbing running from the exhaust in front of the rad (intercooler) and all the way around to the carb.

Yes, its to replace the carbs with a single 4 barrel. Maybe the air cleaner would not clear the hood, so that is to route air to a remote air cleaner. I suggested a turbo because I think Cartech had a turbo set up back in the day for the z. May be some old pics somewhere online.

Maybe a 4 barrel turbo set up?

Found this going through a box when I started my restoration. I think I bought it as a spare many years ago when my wheel cylinder seized.

You paid too much 🤣🤣

I have never seen those license plate lamps, very cool! These were removed at the dealer when the customer wanted mags on his new z. The customer gave them to me in the early 80's when he was cleaning out his attic.