smg1404

Did someone say race... The car in your avatar would most likely win in a race against a Z unless it was a drag race. It might win even then... Don't get me wrong You can make any car as fast as your walet can afford.. I have recently started autocrossing again, and am dismayed to discover how totally the Miata's dominate the event... Corvettes and WRX's do pretty good also.. The difference seems almost too great to overcome at this point.. Of course autocrossing is not real racing, but it is somewhat of an indication of what a car can do in the corners.... Right now I am looking at about 5 to 6 seconds of catch up time on a 50 second course... Some of this is probly the fact that I am out of practice, But the car is no doubt a part of the equation... On a diferent type of course I am sure that a Miata would have a lot of trouble staying in front of me, but this cornering difference is not a happy issue....

I'm sure I was the last to figure this out, But I just discovered that old distributer cap boots from old plug wires fit perfectly over the wiper shafts.... My boots were almost gone... I thought FREE was a great price for this fix...

It's that new air flow body concept... It does not have any wind resistance because the air flows through every part of the car. You could probably fix that with duct tape and superglue...

Did you ever find the cause of the noise???

SInce Ford I think now owns Jaguar, the Jag's have taken a somewhat Taurus look... I did like to look of the older cars better, although the old ones had a reputation for visiting the shop a lot... WHat the heck, the only jag I ever wanted was an early 60's E type ..

I really don't see why everybody wants more than 2 or 3 hundred hp Heck A good running L series with a good cam some port work webers etc is plenty for me... But the V8 is with out a doubt the most bang for the buck... They are cheap, parts are everywhere, they fit easy, Other than being not stock, there is almost no down side..

Open the hood set the emergency brake, or hold the brake. Apply a little throttle, Put the car in gear, and gently let the clutch out enough to apply some torque to the drive train... See if the engine lifts off of the motor mount... It is possible that your noise is being caused by any number of moving parts coming into contact with other parts when your engine displaces from it's normal location... Be careful doing this remember not to let the clutch out all of the way.. Another method would be to try to gently raise the engine with a floor jack, and see if it lifts off of the mounts.. I had this problem once, and this was the cause...

You mean there are no cool cars like these down under??.... I especially liked the duct tape... Hey I bet if you look there are special cars in every country....

Looks great!

But they should be a modern version of the original, that will never rust. Say made from composits, like carbon fiber , and titanium.. I like it,, Bring the whole assembly in at about 700Kg.. Coooooooool,,,, I want it .

Yeah. But for less than $4000.00 you can put in a small block that will surpass any amount of power that any RB engine could ever hope for.. I like the idea of running a Nissan engine in a Z, but if maximum output for minimum bucks is your goal cubic inches always wins. Heck put in a big block and a blower.. AN aluminum big block weighs about the same as a cast iron small block... then 1200 hp is a realialistic goal... Of course the car will disintegrate as soon as you drop the clutch, but what a way to go.

Do you still have a heat shield under your carbs??? The heat from your header may be partially evaporating the fuel.. Maybe??

Hey Glass and aluminum are cool. They save a lot of weight.. Weight is everybody's enemy.. All it does is slow you down... Heck I wish someone would offer carbon fiber parts for a good price...

I think they stopped selling fiberglass parts.. Not enough volume..

I spent about $250.00 , that includes 80.00 for cores I bought online. and the rest for rebuilt calipers and misc parts from the local auto parts store. My daughter wanted to see the bunny

Hey If you wanted to go real fast why did you buy a 30 year old car????? Hey you can make a Z fast.... But fast where ..... is this a drag race car,, an autocross car,,, a race car???? Makes a differance . If you just want to blow cars away from light to light,,,, drop a small block into your zcar... you will save a lot of money, and go faster than you will ever be able to believe.. put the rest of your money into good brakes, because a stock 240 cannot stop from 150+ mph... with the small block this will be an easy speed to achieve... Have fun ... Try not to kill yourself.

The spacing I did was only 1/8th" and was easy I found hardened washers that met the bill perfectly... My stopping power is now very good the brakes do not fade period.

I made my own last weekend. I used 3/4" steel tubing from the local Home Depot. All I had to do for the rear was flatten out the ends, and drill at the right place... The fronts requireed a little bending and welding, but still a very easy job... Cost me about $16.00 for the tubing.... Much cheaper than the store bought units. I can't see why they will not work as well.

I'm afraid that I got rather impatient, and pounded the hell out of mine when I took them off. I had to buy new ones. About 100.00 each.. Oh well, I wonder if a little heat would help?? I know the big hammer works, but it is a little expensive..

I did this conversion.... I used a slightly different caliper. I used the front from a '88 4runner 6 cly.. I had to add 1/8th inch spacers to make the caliper center with the disk.. the only other issue I had was I moved the mounting point on the strut for the break lines... They work great, I always have plenty of stopping power. I may add a proportioning valve some time, if I don't add rear disks first...

I get 14mpg at best.

But I have never seen one... What I did was to remove the outer part of the cable housing past the first carb.... and then run the inner through all three carbs. It seems to work fine. I will post a picture later to show what it looks like..

Here is how I connected my dam..

It's not fancy but I just extended the stock choke cable... On my last car I bought a universal choke cable. For the install I just loop it up near the front of the engine and back to the chokes.. If you get the idle set rich enough you may not need chokes. I just pump a few strokes, and it starts right up..

There are many opinions about this... I am using a Malory dual point distributer, and coil... Some recomend a dizzy unit from a late model Z... others like the MSD units.. ANy of them will probably improve the preformance of your ignition... If your car is stock, the stock ignition is OK as well.. If you are not having problems you may not need to do anything. I changed because I wanted a system without a vacume advance, that I could adjust.