smg1404

As far as I know there is no fail safe. If you run out of oil pressure, the engine will continue to run. But only for a little while. Are your stock gauges broken? I have never had a problem with them on my previous cars.

I can not say what other members of tis site would say. But the choice is of course yours, I would if in your situation price the options. I am sure that your car runs like crap without the turbo. It was set up to need it. The question has to be how much do you want or are able (as in my case) to spend. Price the rebuild, a new replacement (best choice, but most expensive) and alternatives. Roughly you could put a small block in your car fou around $3000.00. You can put a Non turbo engine in your car for from 500.00 dollars to about 1500.00 dollars. You can repair the existing turbo for ?????. These are guesses, and if you have a connection to parts from a friend or associate , you could get much different prices. I would base my decision on what worked for me (Price), but your situation may be different. Good luck either way. Let us know what you decide.

I will look tonight when I get home... I have several manuals... I may have a schematic for both...

I have run solo's before... But never anything more than that. I plan to run in a couple before the end of this year.. It may take me a while to get there, but eventually I would liketo run in an event that has several cars running together. This will probably take me a while to get to though. Too many issues, like getting a car, license, money, time. Anyway, it certainly helps to know what I will need to get there.

I am not running a grill yet. I had one on my last car.It was a sheet of perforated aluminum.. You could also use expanded aluminum, or steel. For the bottom of the air dam I fabricated an aluminum sheet to run from the lower part of the radiator frame out to the air dam.. I not only keeps the dam in place, it makes it work better.

Here is the link... They seem to have a very good looking product line.. http://www.atlinc.com/racing/special.htm

I will try to find the link... But there is a fuel cell that fits into the spare tire well. I did not find it until I had already removed mine... But I think it might be a better way to go to a cell than removing the spare well...

I know I saw this post... I thought I saw some responces to it .... Without the engine running check to see that the throtle linkage and air flow meter etc are not binding... Backup. disreguard that . If you do not have a book that describes the parts of your fuel injection system do not even try to work on this... Get a factory manual, or at least a chiltons guide.. It sounds like either something is binding, or you have a failed sensor... I will stop there because this is not my strong suite. But if you plan to service your oun car start with a book. You cannot replace the convenience, or accuracy of the information in a good service manual. It is likely the problem you have is listed in the troubleshooting section.

I like the price.... but is there any car left under that fairly good looking exterior?

I am afraid I know very little about turbo maintenance... But perhaps you could find a replacement from a scrap yard at a goog price.. I have relied on this resource for many of my " it's broke and so am I repairs" Good luck.... A thought you my not have considered is to ditch the turbo and reconfigure for naturally asperated... The HP is harder to get. But the reliability factor is much greater.... Just a thought.

These are very good posts for racing... I would love to get onto the track somehow. solo1 or vintage sounds interesting.. I assume that the rules are also in the scca rule book for these events... I am never failed to be impressed by the quality of information on this site... I learn at least one thing a day here... Thanks to all of the other participants. I hope my posts have not led anyone down the wrong path... Steve

If it is wired into the alarm system, perhaps it is designed to interupt, or disable the ignition if someone tries to steal the car.. Look for brand name, model number, etc. try an internet search on that info.... I bet there is info on the net about it.

I have never seen one like that .... Behind the seat seems like a strange place for an ignition module... Have you traced the wires down yet?.. I guess you could disconnect it and see if the car still runs..

I have been running the tripple Webers, with the only other mod being headers. I can assure you that there is a performance improvement.. Though I can not say how much.. The biggest thing I see is much is the engine is a much more responsive throttle... And of course they sound great.

And slower

If you are going to make a change... Ask a local 240 owner for a ride,, or a chance to drive their car... you will not look at any more 280's The 240 kick's arse, in every way but luxery. If that is what you want get a Lexus.

I have been around for many years of American Ford evolution... the newer Fords are a polished package... They look good and sound great,,,But they had better go home and hide when a real car comes around... The Mustang can't hold a candle to even a common Camaro. The Mustang needs more than good looks and sound to overcome the more than 100 hp deficit... They are cute and sound great but they are not so fast... What is a sports car supposed to do? Sound good or kick arse. E.O.D.

Depends on your scrap-yard. I doubt I could get a 411 for less than $400.. locally, any way the NOS would be about the same, I the car you are talking about is an auto... Then why talk about racing... Auto's are not compatible with sports cars. To say other wise would be patronizing.. You can drag race an auto but in any other kind of race the auto's get parked in the spectators lot. If you are experiancing a problem with turbo lag, there are two possible solutions. Both require a rethinking on how to drive. If the turbo does not do it's job below 2500 rpm. ... do not let the rpm get below 2500 rpm... Drive more aggressively, SLip the clutch to keep the power on durring take offs... shift at higher rpm's.. Push the car like you mean it.... When I used to drag race as a kid... The saying was if she go's she go's if she blow's she blow's.. Racing for real means the car is a comsumable... If it can't win then it will die trying.

i HAVE FOUND THAT YOU CAN LOCK A SET OF GOOD VICE GRIPS ONTO THEM AND WHACK THE WRENCH, LIKE YOU WOULD A STRIKER BAR, they will almost always let go.... Sorry about the caps... anyway this will almost always get the fittings loose... Of course like noted above, you will have to replace them after this process is complete. I would resist using heat on components that have fluids in them... The result could be undesirable.... Heat is not good for seals, or your head if you achieve a boiling point.

SOund's like my car... It isn't pretty but it runs pretty good. Still alot to do, But buget dictates the rate of progress. My car got this way because of technical skill and buget limitations. I could fx the body, but not so well that anyone would want to steal it, or say wow what a beautiful car. It does not however have football size holes located every foot or so like it did when I got it ...

I like the bodys on the newer mustangs but the new 4.6 litre engines do not have the punch that the 5 litre engines had. They sound great, but after you get up to highway speed they fall on their face... The exception to this would be the cobra's, of course they run a different engine.

Thos numbers scared me at first, then I realized they were kph... 0-100 mph in 7.1 would be pretty quick.. Still I have to agree a stock 280 needs more poneys. Fortunately they can find them pretty easy. 0-100 mph in about 10 is not so hard to get , just a few hard earned bucks.

Of course... I couldn't agree more. I would think the Rb engines are the most bang for the buck. by a lot. There is little chance for the original L series to compete... The engineering for the L series is several years behind that of the Rb series. One issue has to be do you really need that much power. In some cases you can have too much power for the situation... ( i can't believe I am saying this). But I have seen cars that were so powerfull that the driver could not controll them effectively... I you smoke the tires instead of acellerating, or spin out into the weeds, it's hard to win. I knew I shouldn't have said this.... Oh well.

I think you chose well. Rb engines are not redily available in the US... I also am kind of a retro guy... Twin over cam engines produce a lot of power, but they are not a twenty minute valve adjust with a couple of wrenches... and I work on computers all day. I don't want one within 50 feet of my car. So it's carbs, and points for me. I may not make more than a couple hundred HP when I am done,,, but the car is easy to maintain, and infinately dependable... ie not enough power to break anything.

I am not the most experienced SU guy. Most of my experience with them came from a BMW motorcycle I had, several years ago... The things I learned were to make sure there is oil in the resavoir, make sure the piston moves freely,and ther are no vacume leake at the base ot the carb.If it still does not seem to work, check the diaphram in the top of the carburator.. SU's rely on vacume to acuate the piston. The piston is actually what allows fuel and air into the engine. The idea is that a perfect mixture can be had in all operating conditions, independant of barometer, etc.... Sounds good. But they can be perplexing to someone not used to them.