Mikes Z car

Blue, I looked at my car and there is a tiny hole right in front of part #22 towards the back of the car. It is maybe 1/16th of an inch from it so it is very close. Mike

I have used the lead replacement fluid.

I am about to use that same POR-15 kit. You guys are going to think I am pulling your leg or am involved in the production of the red green show but a co-worker says he has cleaned gas tanks by dropping a couple of handfuls of pointy shaped pebbles into a tank and then has strapped the tank to a tractor tire with the tractor jacked up off of the ground. Then he starts the tractor and runs it for a an hour or two and lets the turning tank and tire cause the rocks clean the tank out. I wonder how that would look with a tank strapped to the tire on my old car in the driveway? Not sure how red green would solve the fender clearance though

Those guys on top gear are a lot of fun. I love their approach to cars.

I put a 10" piece of 1/4" copper tubing in the end of the 5/8" hose and bent the hose by hand. The copper is stiff enough to hold the hose in a 180 degree turn. It flattens the hose a bit but I can blow air easily through it. It isn't as neat looking as some other methods might yield though.

I used to live there but didn't have a Z back then. Good luck on your search.

I have had good luck using that kind of device to find the other ends of wires. I think I remember the trick is to turn the transmitter down so you can barely detect it at the other end of the wire to prevent getting off on the wrong wire. If it can't be turned down just disconnect the transmitter connection to the wire but have it very close to reduce the signal level being injected.

This is an old thread but an idea to lenghten the life is to slightly shorten the copper swing arm so that it slides across a different arc of resistance wire in the case where there is a lot of wear on the wire from the copper contact arm. This can be done by removing the cover over the copper arm and bending it to look like (side view): Original from factory ____________ New look _____/\_____ I am putting details and pictures of this on my blog in case anyone else wants to see it.

Mike, Thanks for the information, I didn't know what the label meant other than guessing it might be an inspection label. I searched on tank label before posting and there was a very long listing, I think by the time I decided I was looking at a stamp not a label I forgot to go back and search using the word stamp. I just tried stamp for searching and got better results. jerz, Interesting that they changed the label like that. Bonzi Lon, Thanks for the thread link. Mike

Hi all, I noticed a stamp on the top of my 240 gas tank as I was cleaning the exterior. Anyone seen one of these before? I assume it is just an inspection stamp. Looks like it says 45 1.98 with a katakana alphabet character above that? Mike Stamp location: Stamp:

LeonV, Thanks for the information! I learned something today. Mike

Jim, Thanks for the information. You mention using bearing grease to help slide the filler hose on the tank, I noticed on another thread on the filler tube that lithium grease is also mentioned as a lubricant for getting the filler hose on. I didn't think one wanted to put grease on rubber? Someone told me that grease on rubber makes the rubber dissolve though I have no personal experience on that and I haven't seen other points of view. Mike

Thanks Carl, I didn't know they might crack after they get hard as a rock like mine did. Mike

Carl, Sorry, I didn't mean to be unclear. I didn't have to cut the filler tube as the tank finally fell off of it. I was wondering if it hadn't fallen off if there was some other way of getting the tank off of the filler tube given that I couldn't get the screw to turn on the filler hose at the tank clamp and I couldn't get the 3 screws at the lower flange under the car to unscrew that hold the lower flange on because the tank was in the way so I couldn't get the vise grips on those 3 screws. The filler hose on my early 1970 car has the lower rubber flange molded into the filler hose so they are one piece meaning if I couldn't get those three screws out of the lower flange I couldn't drop the hose down to let the tank down for better access to the screws. The new replacement hose I have has the lower flange slid over the hose; that design would have allowed the tank to drop down even if I couldn't have gotten the lower 3 screws loose. I still am not sure if I am being clear enough. Mike

I don't know if anyone else would see this as a valid solution since it is a different product but I decided to use rust bullet on difficult to prepare interior surfaces of my car. However I have to wonder since rust bullet dries the same way POR 15 does (VIA moisture) would it work better if one prepares the surfaces in a similar way to what is required for POR-15? Mike

To edit my other post on this by replying to it I used PB Blaster on both sides of all 4 screws...

Hi all, I pulled the gas tank on my 240 today to replace a leaky fuel vapor hose on top of the tank though I could not get the clamp screw on the filler hose on the tank to turn without springing back to the original position as I tried to turn it with vise grips. Also I could not remove the three screws holding the filler tube lower flange on with the tank in the way. This meant the filler tube was holding the tank to the car since this early 1970 model has the lower rubber flange molded to the filler tube. In direct violation of Murphy's law as I pulled on the tank it fell off of the filler tube where the tank clamp was solving the problem. I notice the early filler tubes are different apparently than on later model cars as the one on my car has the molded on lower rubber flange and the new filler tube I have has the lower rubber flange molded onto a metal flange that is slid over the filler tube making removal much easier I think. Was there some other way to get the filler tube off without cutting it? I wanted to save it as they don't seem all that cheap. Mike Hose comparison old to new View under car

When I replaced the heater hoses on my first 240 I made the mistake of twisting too hard on one of the hoses to get it off the heater core and the pipe that was a part of the heater core broke off. It might have done me a favor though, maybe if the heater core was that weak it needed replacing anyway.

Great idea, where did you put it?

Is there much reflection off of the glass at night when you hit the brake? Bump to the pictures request.

Thanks very much for the information. I wish there were a way to do a temporary fitting to get the welded on angle correct the first time. Mike

My car needs this mod as did the 240 I had back in the 70s. After the modification is done can you still get wide open throttle with the gas pedal pushed far down or is there something else I need to do to make sure that happens? Mike

Polecat, That is really a creative idea I admire your work. Might work on my car at some point, I have a lot of braided hoses, I don't know if they are original or have been replaced. Mike

On my first Z in 1977 I had a nut on a half shaft that was rusted on Back then I didn't know you guys and couldn't get good info that way. Not knowing any better I used a cold chisel and drove it into the side of the nut until there was a loud crack and it was loose.

The previous owner took all of the badges off my 240 except for the hood badge. Badges are separation? I will attempt to get badges to put back on if I decide to but only if I can get them cheaply. The holes for all of the badges on my 240 except for the hood badge were filled in.