Mikes Z car

Wow that was a great way to get some parts. Fun too.

Every pound is worth 5 seconds in the quarter mile... http://quartermilecalc.com/ Well, maybe not quite 5 seconds.

This should be the car for future readers in case the link dies: What would the new Z look like if they got rid of the creases and made the front look more like an early Z? I wouldn't be in the market for it either but I find myself wondering will anyone ever make a car that I might like as much as the earlier Zs? I am attracted to the early Z due to its drop dead good looks (my opinion), its light weight, performance and handling plus it is relatively cheap.

Wonder if I printed that out the right size and glued it on letters next to a real stamp, wonder what would happen then. My next post would come from a cell? Nice looking stamp.

EuroDat, Your lens looks really great! I'd be proud of that work. Mike

I hadn't thought of the effect of the logging road on... Imagine ripping that gorilla tape off. Arrrgghh...

Here are pictures of the firewall insulation of a 1/1972 240Z on a "fabric board" with lines 1 inch apart going both ways to allow duplication if for some reason someone wanted to. Note that the top edge of all three pieces of the insulation are lined up with a blue line on the fabric board. Pictures were taken in full sun and have shadows. To clarify where the black insulation poster board ends and the shadow begins white dashed lines have been drawn. This could be printed out and the blue fabric board lines drawn as white lines with a ruler to extend what is on the fabric board across the black insulation to make duplication easier. Or start with a fabric board (cheap, can get in fabric shops) drawing what you see here on the cardboard fabric board as a pattern. The insulation pieces are from a 1972 January MFR date 240Z they didn't come from the car shown in my signature. Driver's firewall insulation: Passenger's firewall insulation: In car- driver and middle sections: In car- passenger side:

Yes the no hair getting in the way was considerate. A better road would have been an old logging road with plenty of ruts but that might have been hard on the Z.

Oh okay I understand now. If you do some experimenting with this if you are so inclined I would be curious as to how any of this might turn out. They make a mould release, I don't know if it would be any better than vaseline.

As info, Bill Reagan has once again dropped the price of #201, to $3900. His ad is in classiczars.com in the classifieds. I tried to put a link here but the URL kept showing the old price for some reason.

Here are some pictures behind the glove box but the firewall insulator is still there. It might be better for you if I get back further from the firewall (the seat was in the way but it is not bolted down) to include more area in the pictures for better reference. I am willing to pull the firewall insulation off and take more pictures, want to be sure it is easy and isn't thoroughly glued.

Is that paint, er...

Hah! That is pretty neat. For some reason I get excited about figuring out how to make parts from moulds or other techniques for making parts. I have some mould rubber for making moulds that I haven't used yet. I want to eventually try to duplicate the badge in the middle of the horn button just to see how it might come out. First though, I have to get a horn button to duplicate. I wasn't sure what you meant by pressing other parts into the same mould. Did you mean the first mould can spawn another mould for a different part that has some commonality as far as its shape as compared with the first part?

I cut one of out of an old truck inner tube for one I have but recently I noticed in another one that there seemed to be two gaskets, besides the rubber one there seemed to be a brown possibly translucent gasket that was very thin compared to the rubber one and seemed like it was made out of plastic. But for fun how would you use plaster of paris to make one?

Sorry, I misunderstood. From my experience using the Ace Home and Garden type sprayer for spraying trees I imagine it will spray phosphoric acid quite a ways inside a rail, maybe a couple of feet past the tip of the sprayer.

Blue, I have one of those sprayers to use on my z car for possible anti corrosion work, but would it double for a cheapskate paint job? I wonder if you could put thinned sherwin williams house paint in that. Bruce, I also am amazed at the resourcefulness of car guys. I wonder what pointers if any the Cuban dudes who don't have replacement parts could give? Lawn mower carbs on a Z car? The Transtar Amber spray material for anti corrosion I understand has a limited shelf life too. I did use one can after a year and it still sprayed though I don't know how the age might have altered the effectiveness. It looked okay. Right after using it I always soak the 3 foot long tubing in hot soapy water and force water through it though maybe paint thinner or some other solvent would work better. I seem to kink the tubing making it hard to use before any clogging issue, haven't clogged it yet but I don't know for sure if the hot soapy water is helping much.

Blue, I was wondering if dirt in the four butterfly shaft bearings as they go through both sides of both carbs would cause friction that would cause the jerk? Maybe spraying the bearings with carb cleaner would help? I haven't seen a clear picture of what the butterfly bumps into at its top and bottom when it is closed. Maybe wear on the shaft bearings would let the butterfly contact the carb wall in a way it didn't when it was new?

Well if you want the fire wall area and the area above that which is normally behind and above the glove box meaning you are drawing a left hand drive car I have 1972 parts car I have the dash out of I will take pictures of much later today though someone else may be able to provide better pictures than me and before I can get to it.

I am curious about how well the SK carb does with the cold start circuit in cold weather? Anyone know how it works? granny, I always enjoy seeing Ted your cat, I like cats and he looks like a good one.

This thread describes what I did: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/body-paint-s30/40048-two-frame-rails-tc-rod-there-floor-between-them.html Holes I enlarged or existing holes I used to spray anti rust: I also made twin holes 2 inches DIA, one under the gas pedal to get to the rear end of the driver's frame rail closest to the driver and a similar one under the forward foot area of the passenger floor to get to the inside of the passenger side frame rail. I used a Transtar Amber spray can as the nozzle for it (purchased separately) has a 360 degree spray pattern. The Eastwood spray can that Blue points out sprays radially which sounds like a similar pattern.

Another one (mentions a cable that does not require grinding off anything on Datsun gas pedal): Throttle cable setup - Lockar & custom bracket - Drivetrain - HybridZ

z boy mn. I only have cable on my daily driver which is an old '83 Toyota SR5 wagon though I am also curious about using cable on a Z if anyone has pictures of their setup. For Blue, I'd love to see how linkage modeling might be done with excel. I saw some two dimensional (in a flat plane) linkage modeling using a microsoft office product (might have been excel or powerpoint) a year ago somewhere on the net but couldn't see how to make it work for a Z multiple link setup. It might be possible to do 3D dynamic linkage modeling in sketchup, but is the output desired a graph showing gas pedal linear mm input movement VS rotational degrees of butterfly shaft movement? A goal might be your eccentric idea with a slow take off that gets faster at mid pedal depression and then tapers off at maximum gas pedal depression? I don't know what might be ideal for street driving other than slow or linear butterfly movement as the pedal is pushed off of idle.

Thanks beermanpete, Since the PO upgraded my car to a 60A alternator it gives more reason to upgrade those connectors.

Blue, I just figured if we could get you dragged into this discussion we would get another valuable point of view. heh heh

I notice my DD uses a cable that feeds to a round "pulley" on the butterfly shaft so the mechanical advantage is very close to the same throughout gas pedal depression meaning the rate of rotation of the butterfly shaft is linear. Pedal action is very smooth and the car uses a carburetor. I don't know if linear action matters for racing. Does vacuum pull on the butterfly to make it stick? Maybe unhooking the return springs and the linkage to the pedal when the car is running would answer that. Maybe compare that linkage friction to the friction when it is not running. Just ideas.