grantf

thanks but I figured that out already. again I don't know what i would do without the help of the members on this forum, THANKS!

thank you for all of you're help, let me know what you find out about the 77 78 tanks, I will make sure I am not buying another rusty tank (why go through the trouble??). looking at you're photo's has me thinking about going the por-15 route if the new tank is no good.

My sincerest apologies as looking at the tank for sale it is a 77 not a 75! I have the 75 FSM but not the 77, I am guessing the 77 and 78 are identical.

The whole rear floor changed. That's what I needed to know thanks.I will stay with a 77-78 fuel tank and think hard about options. Performance Radiator in Tacoma quoted about 325 clams to clean and line the tank. A bit pricey I think. Has anyone here in Seattle had there tank serviced at a radiator shop.

I have heard bad things about POR-15, breaking down with today's fuel additives. I am reluctant to put the 75 tank in until i know it will bolt up.

my fuel tank has rust causing the fuel line to clog up before the fuel pump, I have found a good replacement taank but my car is a 78 and the replacement is a 75 looking at both FSM's the illustrations look a little different, can I swap on out for the other.

I understand that the relay in no way is incorporated into the head light circuit. as my car is 60 miles away and I need to get these working before i drive it home I plan on temporarily wiring the lights turn signals and wipers to switches and bypassing the combo switch. As I need to remove the dash board in order to repair or replace it, it would then be a good time to systematically go through the wiring, it has been severely butchered by the previous owner. I think I know how to test the relay.

why can't you drive you're z in the winter?

funny that the oem pump has a screen built in that you can actually service!!

sorry I know this might be vague but what is the possibility of the combination switch being the nature of the problem?

yes I have the 78 fsm, I printed both circuits (lights and signals) and have them on hand during diagnoses.I would not post a question to this board before looking things over myself, I was hoping for others with more experience to perhaps point out a common solution. So another question is the ignition relay testable? and is it available?

is there such a thing as an ignition relay on a 78 280z????

I put a cheap fuel pump on my 78 280z, and the car ran great!!!! for about 1 day. I took the pump out and tested it with jumpers and it would not run, so for s&g's I tested the old oem fuel pump and it ran!! still have it my car! (I might consider opening it up and looking for contaminants).

has anyone seen the relay I mentioned on a 78??? also having a problem with my head lamps not working (the same jumping method mentioned above worked).

on my $300 280z I have had a rear end clunk, first noticed a BADLY worn half shaft u-joint, took about 40 min to replace. test drove the car and the clunk was better but not gone, so I inspected the drive shaft and there seemed to be some play in it. I was wrong (a good thing), the play seemed to originate from the other half-shaft when I removed it I felt for play and there was but really minimal. After replacing the two u-joints on the second one the clunk is 90% cured. I might replace the last one and see what improvements I get, but now I'm thinking about looking at my transmission mount also!

having a hell of a time getting my turn signals to work, after about 2 hours of exploring I found no power to the flashers on the fuse panel (both sides of the fuse). so I jumped a wire from the pos on the battery to the back of the fuse panel and bingo they worked. so I follow the line from the fuse panel and I believe it connects to the ignition relay, does this sound correct? if it's a bad relay, there seems no place to buy them, the catalogs I've seen only have them for zx's:ermm:

I do not owned a zx nor do i want one but..... I know most of you have probably already seen this.

sblake01 thanks, the older drive shaft is still an option.I did not consider it a possibility tell you mentioned it. so my options are the drive line shop or an older drive shaft if I can find one near me soon.

sorry I forgot to mention, this site RULLES!!

thanks for the info, but just to make sure, will a 240 or 260 shaft fit a 78 5 speed tranny. I did call around and there is a place in georgetown (Seattle) called drive-line northwest, they said they specialize in non serviceable shafts for BMW, Mercedes, and all other imports, they said they might be able to service it (cost $30 (u-joint)+ $15.50(service) & balancing. I know of two people who have used them and say they do good work. Any thoughts?

can i replace the u-joints on my 78 280z. the manuals say no, but I just replaced one on one of the half shafts with no problem at all. thing is there is another bad one on the drive shaft (propeller shaft). do I need to replace the whole thing??? P.S. I have a 5 speed.

is not contact cement remover acitone?

260z's were only made in 74. i miss my old one.:disappoin

sorry stupid post but the oversized rear spoiler just bugs me that's all. on a race track anything goes. (including carbon fiber legs!)

sorry I am new here, but I just have to say Wings on z-cars look stupid. imho :pirate: