DC871F

What finish are you using from the Caswell system?

Where are you getting all the metal work done? It looks like your getting everything in an alcad type coating. looks very nice.

"This as a Brick" Jethro Tull. All of our 240's were new when they released that album. "Forever Changes" Love "Songs of Experience" David Axlerod The Doors Flaming Lips

Nothing specific, just went over to the shelf for electrics and it was hanging on the shelf. By the way, yours did exactly what mine did, one of the terminals on the breaker has broke clean off. I put a 20A breaker on mine, $2.99. Also, when I reinstalled my new breaker, I zip tied it on the outside of the inner structure, there was no way in he11 to get it to go back in the hole.

I searched through all threads here, and allthough they were helpful, they were a little lacking, so i thought I would post this incase anybody else need help in the future. On my 83ZX, this breaker was located on the passenger side above the fuse panel. But what some of the threads here do not indicate is that you have to remove the two bolts that hold the junction box where all the wire connections are. This is a fist sized black plastic mount that sits at a 45 degree angle that block you from getting to the breaker, just remove the screws and push it out of the way. Now, for the breaker location. It is attached by 2 bolts to the inner structure of the car, and the breaker hides in between this inner structure and the outer fender area, just above the fuse box. The 2 mounting bolts face inward towards the passenger compartment, and the breaker hangs in the this afformentioned recess between the 2 metal structures of the car, so its basically in a hole. Its attatched to another wire bundle and a black relay box about 2x 3.5", undo this bundle from the breaker and finess the breaker out of the hole to undo the 2 bolt on connections that have a rubber boot covering both. THEY ARE NOT BLADE TYPE CONNECTIONS, they are studs with a lock washer and nut. Another note, I was only able to find the breaker by the color coded wires from the wiring print, meaning that the breaker is not in view when your just fumbling around moving wires around to find this thing. I saw the 2 wires and followed them down the hole, and still at this point I couldnt even see the breaker yet. Not until you undo the 2 bolts will you actually see it. Fun stuff! Nissan still carries this part (special order), for $60.00, and thats not a typo on the price. Went to Autozone and got a simular one for $2.99. Good luck.

I found a set on ebay last year. Paid around $350.00 for them, originals. They were in rough shape, but I used the micro-mesh system on them, and they look brand new. Side note, after buying them, I have not seen any on there except for the G-nose. With that being said, it took me 2 years to find mine for the price I thought was reasonable.

Several years ago, when i was a kid, I had an 81ZX, the pump was leaking, so I just didnt put any more fluid in it, untill about 9 months later when I found out it was just a line that was leaking. Fixed the line, serviced the fliud, and the pump worked good as new. The car was a daily driver.

I have had 6 Z cars, 3 ZX's, and 3 240's. I currently have a 73Z. I have had them since I turned 16 in 1989, and they were dime a dozen. I remember going to the junk yard and getting anything I needed. I would buy and sell 240's for $2000-$4000. I honestly think that the internet has made most desirable cars to go up in price. I have also had several Vintage 50's VW Beetles, and before the internet, they were pretty cheap as well, and now the are through the roof, along with the parts, and for the most part, these cars are not that scarce. But, I have always got into these cars for the fun, and have never thought of the value as far as collectable. I have driven nice 240Z's everyday, rain or shine, to work, long trips, after all that what there meant for, and will probably always do so, but maybe in the future I will have a couple parts cars in the back.

I have a 73 with just over 21,000. Spare tire still has the knoby's, and the color strips, I dont think it has ever been out.

What paint products were used in the engine bay? Also, does a clear coat hold up in the heat of the engine bay? Just wondering about discoloration.

I fly for Kalitta Air, Cargo 747's We stop in Japan out of Hong Kong for gas on the way to Anchorage. Where are you domiciled?

Kats, who do you fly for? I fly for international cargo airline. I was just at Kansai last week, on the way to Anchorage.

I went to paint store today, they are recommending Nason products. can someone point me in a direction for quality paint?

I had a 1957 Beetle, I was rear ended by a drunk driver. Long story short, his insurance company gave me quotes from JC whitney for a my parts, came to about 400-$500 bucks! If any body is familiar with Vintage bugs, just the deck lid alone can be $500 or more. I was in a daily shouting match, real shouting, on the phone, and basically had to tell adjusters that "they were not going to win". In the end, I was able to get almost everything I was asking for. I had to provide actuasl costs for vintage 50's VW parts, but it worked. Please do like me, dont take any crap from the people.

Thats pretty nice dude! I love the lights. Are those home made? Also, did I see the front side lights also doing some turn signaling when you were pulling in the driveway? I have only been around 240's, is that standard on the 280?

Thanks, this key is the one that matches my ignition key. Will the door key look the same as the ignition on the 73?

I am looking for a nice replacement key for my door locks, founf these on ebay. Can anybody tell me if these are original for a 73Z? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310176692297&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT I have my original ignition key for my 73, and it has a round shape by the key ring. The one on ebay has sqaured edges on the ignition. Thanks

I have a 73 Z I need to have paint & body done. Any suggestions in JAX, FL? I know there are plenty, but I dont want to just hand it over to just any place that just does insurance work, not that I'm knocking that. But I kind of get the feeling from talking to some that there just really not interested in do my car, and I'm affraid the work may suffer. Any suggestions? I also wouldnt mind taking it out of town if there is a reputable place, in reason of course.

did you keep the front seat mount in place when you put the floor in?

Thats what I was hoping to see. I also figured i could leave the front seat brackets in place as well. Thanks alot.

Thinking of replacing floor pan, are there any measurements for welding in seat mounts after new floor pans installed? The Zedd floors seem the way to go, do they offer any replacement measurement?

I have a 73 Z, anybody know of a reputable restoration place that will do the Z right?

Sounds like someone put the kybosh on you, that blows.

I took mine out, cut it in half(long ways) right above the weld seem. I had it sand blasted, welded, pressure tested, and powder coated, for around $250. Looks better than brand new. If you do this, just make sure you take compressed air and run a nozzle in one of the holes to constantly have fresh air running throught it. It may go boom if you dont.

The reason I brought this up, is I have a white 73Z, and I saw a die cast model of a white Z with a black hood, I thought it looked pretty cool. There are lots of late 60's muscle cars also with flat black hoods.