DC871F

No Clicking. I have also pulled some spark plugs to see if they were wet, and they are not. So if ECU has its own ground, I may have missed the noid lights in the bright conditions in the shop yesterday, they are kind of dim. If the noid shows pulsing, I'm going to assume the ECU is doing its job, correct? The injector harness is intact, then the next place to look is going to be the injectors. It's bothersome though that all 6 would be bad/clogged, but I guess its not outside reality. Thanks again. I'll figure this out eventually.

I used the pins in the FSM for each injector. So if I went to ground from the ECU connector, the injector should have fired. I understand that it needs a pathway, which I'm pretty sure me grounding at the connector did. Maybe my wording above said something different. Now, I will go ahead and admit to a major error in my troubleshooting. When I was checking with the noid lights, I forgot to bolt the ecu back up to the bulkhead, so no ground, (cough cough), that came to me about 2am last night in bed, funny how the mind works. I had the ECU out just make sure there was no obvious damage. SO, I just went out and checked with the noid with the ECU grounded, and yes, pulsing, a long road to this discovery, but I'll take it. Still no fire off. Injectors next.

Not lost, just re-routed. So the Haynes book says make a plug to use in the injector plug, spin the engine above 80RPM which I did. It did not show power (no pulse), then I discovered the FSM here on the site, which I them proceeded to do the various functional test which long story short, I do show continuous power in the injector circuit, but after getting noid lights, I confirmed that there is no pulsing at the injectors, which was in fact what the first original test confirmed when I made up the rig that Haynes said to do. I think the root of the problem is the ECU or all 6 injectors are stuck. More to come.

Not new to wiring, I'm an A&P mechanic used to troubleshooting avionics, autopilots, fixing jet engines, etc. I can read a diaphragm. But I am not too big to take advice or learn something new from guys that have been doing this sort of thing alot longer than me. I have power on both sides of the injector plug, I just got a new set of noid lights which did not pulse. I show power from the ECU plug pin for the injectors, EFI relay is good, Fuse links are good, good battery, good ground, good gas, good pump, good spark. I'm guessing that the injectors can be seized from years of sitting, or maybe the ethanol got to them. Or is it the ECU? The car sat for several years, and for ZX's its pretty clean for having so, fuel delivery may have been the reason for it. Tank was completely shot, full of rust, but that may have been due to sitting and not the cause of the problem. I installed a clean tank and replaced a couple fuel lines which showed no signs of sending rust downstream. Fuel rail is getting and sending clean fuel.

Did the coil test, didnt hear any injectors firing, grounded them at the ECU plug, nothing either. Oil and gas in cylinders fired engine off, but still no fuel flow from the injectors.

When I just was using the Haynes manual, It had a picture of a simple test light that was made up to plug into each injector plug. It said it was supposed to pulse above 80 RPM. So I made a similar test light and plug. I inserted it into the injector plug with nothing happening (no pulsing). I plug it on the hot side of the injector plug and then to ground and it shows power. If i'm not getting the pulse, does that mean the ECU is bad? I plan to do ZH's recommended test tomorrow from the coil to see if I can get the injectors to fire.

I meant to say Meant to say to "Cold start valve". Ill give this try tomorrow, I really appreciate your help.

Why does that make the injectors fire?

I will go try this, thank you.

I tried that with a test light and nothing happened, which started this Easter egg hunt. (No pun intended)

I removed the fuel rail return line and got fresh gas in the rail, but in the back of my mind I thought about the injectors being clogged. Honestly I should have stopped after not getting it to fire off after new fuel and new pump and just removed the rail and injectors to clean and inspect. Just did the EFI relay check and its good. I installed new coil just for troubleshooting and no change. Ill try the oil and start fluid and if no change, ill put the meter down and pick up the wrenches and remove the rail and injectors to see condition. Thanks

Great thanks. When I check voltage its constant when engine spinning with starter . I read where its supposed to cycle to show voltage only when firing the injectors, hence light check on both pins at plug. Fusible links all good.

Saying power starts at the battery was a little primitive for troubleshooting purposes, I thought it was funny.

Until I had seen the FSM here, all I had was a Haynes book to guide me, not much there for troubleshooting my injector problem. Thanks.

So you are saying that the power comes from "the Battery"? Now I feel like maybe your kind of messing with me at this point, no? Thanks for the help.

There's no power at the injector plugs, good ole Fluke and a home made tester with a light bulb confirms. If the ECU is not the beginning power for the 6 injector plugs, where would the beginning be?

82 NA 280ZX. I have fuel, spark, but no power to fuel injectors. Crank angle sensor seems intact(wiring). Car has been sitting many years, has fresh fuel, no blockage in fuel rails. Other than Control Unit, what else will power fuel injectors? It seems hasty to pull the trigger on a new ECM, but as far as I can tell that seems to be the issue. I pulled the ECM out, seems clean, no obvious issues. Any thoughts?

Fairladys were different from 240Z's. Subtle but different. Emblem on the pillar would solve most questions.

My preference is leave all emblems. 240 is a classic, and should be left as such. Besides, most people sitting at the traffic light around you dont even know what "Datsun" is anymore.

I had an 81 do the same thing a few years back. For kicks I went to junk yard (when there were alot of ZX's there) and replaced the airflow meter, everything ran smooth as silk after replacing.

Yes!! I remember that on mi 81 ZX, which was not a GL model. The GL's have a different system. I would have never remembered that if you didnt say something.

I have determined through ringing out every wire in the antenna system, that it only can work with the factory stereo. I have installed an aftermarket antenna, wired it in and works great, just wish I could get my 2 days of ringing wires out back. If theres a way to wire the factory antenna in with an after market system, I would still be interested in the answer, just for kicks.

Please explain. Manual up down? The only switch I have is the factory mid/long range button that was a seperate switch on the radio face plate. The the aftermarket radio, I only have the antenna plug that plugs into the (car) side. Thanks

Installing aftermarket CD player, cannot find power for the electric antenna. I have the prints handy, but where do I hook power (antenna lead) from the CD player to the Car harness? I have an 83 GL with electric tuner. THanks

This is a funny subject. I have a 73 240, and my turn signals were on top, brakes on the bottom. I rewired them to do the opposite. I have seen other 240's where they were originaly set up with turn signals on bottom, wierd.