Zedyone_kenobi

My car has a 7/71 build date, so does that put me in the scooted forward rear diff catagory? Also, is there any way to identify the pedigree of the diff I have on my bench? My current diff has numbers stamped into the bottom of it, and I would wager that they are meaningful to some degree. This new diff is smooth all over, no numbers anywhere. So I am left scratching my head. Its more of a curiosity than anything else. I would actually like to keep the stock diff in my car if I can, but I think I have bearing issues. It makes a noticeable noise when you coast in gear off the gas

Thanks, yeah, my little boy is 6 months old.. and he is why this project will take several weeks instead of one weekend. I spend 15 minutes a week sweeping it and mopping it. It actually pretty cluttered. The wooden shelves are destined for my shed thats going in the back yard in a few weeks. So then I will have more room for the compressor air lines, I plan on installing next year. Right now my compressor is next to my tool box. Its out of the way, but having several air bosses would be nice. But first the clunk. I have added replacing my tranny mount to the list. As I am sure it along with the engine mounts are original too. Keep in mind my car only has 69234 miles on her. So most of these parts should be in great shape.

I used UCOATIT light grey, followed by their tinted gloss coat. I elected not to use the flakes, as based on past experience, trying to find a nut or a small screw on a flaked floor is impossible. I cannot tell you how happy I am with the results. The floor is almost rubbery smooth, and sweeping and mopping it are effortless. NOTHING sticks to it, and its hard as nails. I highly recommend it.

The Z had one last peaceful night in her garage before it was time to start the investigation into her rear end clunk. With tools put away, and the garage cleaned up, she was ready for a peaceful nights sleep. Then while waiting on Hurricane Gustav this weekend I had time to do a little work. I started cleaning my replacement diff in case I decided to use it, and started the task of getting the car safely in the air and well supported. I had to put the garage stereo on easy listening so to lull her to sleep for surgery. THen the tires came off, followed quickly by the drivers side half shaft, which put up next to no fight at all. Here is the picture of the half shaft, and replacement diff before cleaning. AFter shots pending. I cant find my brass and wire brush at the moment. May have to pick up new ones to clean off the diff and get it ready for prime and paint. The good news is that the rubber boot on the half shaft is soft and supple, with no cracks I can see or feel. The U-joints no matter how hard I try have no slop and and are completely smooth in all directions. I have ordered new U-joints for both half shafts, but I cannot see replacing parts that are probably OEM and are probably in great shape. Opinions? Here is a better look at the U-Joint. So far the project is going well. I have new drive shaft U-joints coming as well, and a Urethane Mustache bar kit. You can see the new diff mount in the picture. I am going to be very interested to see the condition of the mustache bar bushings. More pics to come.

Well,I know what I am doing tonight... Thanks gents!

how much do you figure I could get for my oil cap!!!

Thanks for the correction, Arne. I just spun it around and counted...its 3.XX:1 something. But I will make note tonight and do it correctly!

I was cleaning off my diff I received from the Z store, and noticed that it had NO markings on the bottom of the diff. My stock Diff has two numbers cast into the bottom. One is T25, the other is something else, I need to go back and look. The light was bad. The new diff does not have any stampings cast into it. Its just a curiosity, but I would hate it if my R180 is different from this R180. The gear ratio is about 3.5:1 ish. So thats correct for a 71 240Z 4spd car. If somebody has time, take a look at the bottom of your 240Z Diff and let me know if it has any stampings? I need a Z part interchange manual.

no words are good enough

THey are not TURNING backwards, They move LATERALLY, straight back toward the back of the car. Again, it does come down to taking it into a shop that will do more than sit back and wiggle things like I have done. Its time to let a professional take a look. I will post to let everybody know what I found.

You would not be insulting! You would speaking a great deal of truth. I replaced a ring and pinion in a Chevy 10 bolt once, and I completely did not enjoy that. As it took many tries to get mesh patter just in the right place. And it still whined when I was done. That was 15 years ago. I sort of swore off diff work since then. I would never try to do any work inside my diff. I was under the impression I could replace the seals going out to the half shafts from the outside. I have never worked on an R180, this is true. I suppose I should just tear into my spare sitting on my bench before I bug the people here. I wish I could come to the same conclusion on the condition of my diff. But when I turn the drive shaft by hand, I can see the halfshafts move backward before they even try to turn. In the end, I need to do just what your saying. Take my car to a shop that specializes in Z's. Until then, I simply will not be able to diagnose this problem without randomly replacing parts, which can get expensive and time consuming.

If I pull the half shafts off the diff, can I take out and replace the bearings and seals with the diff still on the car. I have play in my bearings on both sides, and before I swap out the entire diff, I want to make sure its not something far more benign.

ooops!

If this has been posted before I am sorry.

I cant host them as they are not mine. I found them on my old Subaru forum, and when I saw the Datsun, I had to post here.

A friend in my former Subaru Club went to Rally Germany. Took these pictures. If you appreciate rallying, these old vintage cars are truely amazing to watch.

Good luck Zero! Thanks Poindexter!

well, vacuum lines are next on my list of things to finish, I replaced half of them already. I have a few more that need some attention.

Found my issue with a car that would not rev.. let me describe the symptoms, and maybe this solution will help others. My car no matter how smoothly or harshly I hit the throttle it would rev to about 4500-5500 and start to miss and sputter. Acceleration would stop entirely and the car would sputter around and the tach needle would oscillate up and down. Very disturbing. I thought it was timing at first so I adjusted that. I still may need to pull the distributor to see if the mechanical advance is gunked up. That was some good advice form a friend on these boards. I have not yet done that, but I did manage to find a spare distributor in my parts bin that came with my car. It was in used but very solid condition. Shaft was smooth and while it was gunked up in side, it had no shaft play, so this may be a good candidate for rebuild/cleaning. But I digress. The spare distributor had a new cap and rotor on it. I have long suspected the rotor was an issue. It was only worn on the edge of one side. So I quickly put it on and swapped out caps. My new cap had the benefit of brass terminals, which is far better than the traditional aluminum. Here is the rotor that came off the car. You can see that one side is visibly more 'chewed up' than the other. In real life its far more pronounced, here is a better view, Here is the rotor that went with it: Once I installed these and hooked it back up, I was amazed at the difference it made. The car was smooth at 3k, 4k, 5k, and 6k. I did not rev it much past that and hold it, but it pulled once form 1st clean to 6500 rpm with NO fuss, mess or issues. I still think there is some timing work in there, but my gosh, it runs so smoothly. I should have done this swap earlier. I installed a new vacuum advance, reset the timing, adjusted the valves, and all along it was the cap and rotor. Guess it had reached the end of its serviceable life. If that gap grows too big, no amount of spark will get it to rev. 240ZED is a revving machine now.

wow, looks fantastic! I really love the cars in this state. To see one come back from this would be astonishing and fun to watch!

^^^^ what he said!^^^^ by the way WELCOME to the sight? Have any pictures of your baby?

There is a great website with bulletproof step by step pictures and explanations on how to adjust valves. If you do a search on this website you can find it.. lets see.. http://www.picturetrail.com/sfx/album/view/1803105 That should be of some use mikewags!

I hate to admit it, but your words ring true. Actually I dont hate to admit it, but now it leaves me with more head scratching to do. I am going to keep the R180 I have on order coming and use it for comparison. I may even get it professionally rebuilt so I have a known good part. That is one job, I do not wish to tackle by myself. Just note for clarification, I do not feel slop when I turn my halfshafts. I feel slop when I push on them radially, as in up toward the bottom of the car.

Hey peace buddy, I agree. Every system can be improved, but the stock system has been working on my car for 37 years. Something to be said for that. If you want better cooling get a larger radiator, cheap, easy install, and dead reliable. Again, with a engine rebuild, you cannot stress enough protection or reliability. Also, with your electric system, should you decide to go that route. It has its own set of problems. It has a constant draw from the battery, and does put a stress on the electrical system. Older 240's charging systems to not like too many more amps than stock. So be mindful that you may want to upgrade to a later model alternator (60amp maybe). If for whatever reason you lose power to the pump, your stranded. A mechanical pump is fairly reliable, and was designed to go there. In the end its your decision, but if it were my money, I would spend it elsewhere.