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Babalouie

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About Babalouie

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  1. Yes I want one...but no, I can't afford one
  2. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html If your distributor looks like this, then it's the common E12-80 upgrade from a 280ZX. The link above has a wiring guide. I'd say if it works on some of the cylinders but not others, it might be a dizzy cap/lead issue. Are the 2 "cold" cylinders on the same carb?
  3. If you're going to do another round of tinkering, remember that the ideal carb settings are only "findable" when the car is warmed up and running cleanly. So the "get the damn thing started" settings will prolly have to be revisited and finetuned (eg the ilde mixture screws) when you do finally solve the issue.
  4. So it's starting and running, but the current status is that it's a bit rough and maybe missing on 1 pot? Does it idle by itself, or does it need revving to stay alive? Pull all the plugs and compare colour, just to eliminate any issues that might be only affecting one cylinder. Check if they are all the same colour, or if one is blacker, or if one carb's plugs are blacker. That'll narrow it down a bit more, if it's say a problem from just one carb, then we can take off the top plate and start looking checking float levels. Pull all the main jets out again, and this time pull the jet off th
  5. Well you got nothing to lose by trying 15-36-24 as a firing order (with #1 being the closest to the radiator) Hang in there, you'll get it working soon I'm sure! Here's some motivation (my car and it's got the same carbs as you got):
  6. If the motor hasn't been run for a few years, it could be a heaps of things at play here. Checked the ignition timing yet? As for gaskets, I found that the Weber UK distributor is pretty sharp on pricing, (especially now that the pound is in the toilet). I'm not sure if these are cheaper than USA prices tho: http://stores.shop.ebay.com.au/FAST-ROAD-CARS-LIMITED_Weber-Service-Kits-Gaskets_W0QQ_fsubZ3QQ_sidZ21855701QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em322 My mnemonic for remembering the plug wire order is "too young....too old...just right": 15 - 36 - 24
  7. I had problems with my ignition too, and the more I "improved" it with upgraded parts the worse it got. In the end it turned out a few of the connections on the keybarrel were dodgy. Just to be sure, now I run a relay with the coil +ve getting a direct feed of juice from the battery. Do Zs run a relay?
  8. Well as luck would have it, this weekend I found myself swapping out chokes in a Weber carb So here's what it looks like: When you get the carb out and onto your bench, you'll see these "inserts" in the throats of the carbs. They're the aux venturis. The aux venturis just slide in, and have a spring clip that clicks into place, so you just wiggle them out with your fingers. Once out, you can see the choke tube sitting underneath. The chokes are a similarly loose fit and will just slide out...and here's what they look like. Factory chokes will have the size cast into the front edge, in th
  9. There are decades-old charts that Weber and Dell put out that give you the starting point for your jetting, but years ago, a helpful Alfa Romeo enthusiast put it all into a spreadsheet, so all you have to do is plug in your values and it'll recommend settings. I've attached it, and it's easy to use...just remember that it's set up for 4cyl Alfa Romeo engines and so you have to convert your Zed L28 to a theoretical 4cyl config. So a 2750cc stock L28 would convert into a 1833cc four. Ok, well those jet sizes sound ok for a 30-32mm choke size (which would also work just fine on your stock L28).
  10. Well the car I have right now is the first one I've had with multiple Webers, I'd never tuned carbs before and like Willy, I had to learn. There is actually a lot of info on the 'net but even so it does seem quite daunting. But in the end it's not actually that difficult at all to understand IMHO....it's maybe hard to visualise at first, that's all. But you're right about the ignition, in the sense that if you have a problem with the ignition, you will drive yourself crazy trying to diagnose the issues from the carb-side. We went NUTS playing with the carbs, even going to the extent of swa
  11. This first step is just to see what Willy's got to work with. If the jetting is wrong, then there is no point trying to tune around it until we address it. But sure, once we we ensure that the jetting/hardware is all in the ballpark, then we'll look at the tuning. Yup. You see those two smaller brass screws next to the main/correctors (under the round cover)? Those are the idle jets, and you can just unscrew them to have a looksee. They seem to be quite forgiving though, so anything from 45 to 55 seems to work just fine. Try this check for now: see those big screws with the spring? That
  12. 40DCOEs will be just fine, that's what I run on my L28. First step is to see what you have got. Remove the round covers on top of the carbs, and unscrew the main jet and emulsion tube. The main jet is at the bottom... ...and the corrector is at the top. The choke size is a little tricker to find....it'll be cast into the front of the choke tube, which is behind the "pillar" in this pic...this is looking right down the throat of the carb from the air filter side. Easy to see if you have the carb out and sitting on your bench, not so easy to find if you're just leaving the carb on the mot
  13. If it's only one plug that looks lean, I'd be more tempted to suspect an air leak in the manifold. Give your manifold to head bolts a quick visual check? One of my friends had this same issue and when he looked, one of the nuts was finger tight ...and at the carb to manifold join, what are you using? Are they are those big o-ring type gaskets?
  14. Maybe float levels are out in the 3rd carb? I had that prob too, one carb was leaner than the rest, and in the end the float level in that carb was 3mm out. Once it was fixed the plug colours evened out. I'm sure the process of checking Dell floats would be similar to Webers: http://www.webcon.co.uk/Downloads/DCOE%20float%20height%20setting.pdf
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