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Found 4 results

  1. I recently completed upgrading my Z and was left with some left over parts. Tokico Illuminas with less than 1000 miles on them. Upgraded to coilovers and found one of the shocks was blown. Selling the 3 good ones with a set of Eibach Pro Springs. Asking 400 OBO Datsun Comp Intake Ceramic Powder Coat Ported out to 45mm on carb side. No Linkage. SOLD Arizona Z Car Steering Knuckles- Brand new. Attempted to install but found out that they are not compatible with Techno Toy front suspension. SOLD 10mm Spacers SOLD Here is your chance to get rid of points. Dizzy was on my l28 with a Crane XR700 with optical trigger and a Mallory Promaster Coil. Asking SOLD SUs with intake Asking SOLD Reinhard Twice Pipe 2 in 2 out muffler. This muffler has the largest tube size that I know of. 60.5mm in and out. Asking SOLD.
  2. Hey friends. So I was finally putting in a new set of points for the Distributor I've restored and cleaned up... and while flipping through the FSM pages, I came across the distributor weight governor springs portion- and something is off here. The distributor I have is an Emissions Control spec D612-52 model, as opposed to the D606-52. I believe it is the original one that came on this Jan 1970 car. They differ slightly, the D612- as far as I can tell, has distributor cap clamps that are two piece, and use a small bracket that holds them onto the body of the distributor- one of the small plated brackets has the cap alignment square that makes sure the cap only goes on one way- whereas the later style ones have it cast into the body itself (you could theoretically swap the two bracket positions and install the cap incorrectly on the one I have. Anyways, that's neither here nor there, just a detail on the version I have to avoid confusion or if it relates to the issue I'm having: The governor spring assembly... On the spare distributor from the 71 (later style, cap can go on only one way) that I took apart to look at, the governor springs have two different tensions and are visibly different. This is indicated in the FSM: On the distributor I've rebuilt, the springs are the exact same, and there is no difference between the two, except for #3 and #7 in the diagram- the circular end and the rectangular end. while situated at top dead center (on a bench, mind you)- I put the cam plate in and verified that everything looked like the photo shown, even the small start/end advance angle gap on #2... but the springs are still bothering me. Is this part of the reason why they were "Emissions" style distributors? They didn't advance the gap due to offset weight distribution? Should I be concerned? I am new to points distributors so I am having fun putting it back together, but I'm not sure if it's going to work well. I'm going to try it with the oil ignition coil when I get the car started because I don't want to damage the NOS ignition coil.
  3. I've seen some walk throughs(mustangs..) that show that this has a plastic gauge to set the gap, but mine didn't come with that. has anyone installed one of these systems>? (this is actually on my '72 skyline, not a Z, but i bought a Z ignitor.. they don't make one for the skyline) My L20 engine is pretty much the same as the Z, just smaller.
  4. Like the title says, I've given up. Over the past 2 years or so, I've wasted a pile of time trying to get electronic ignition into my 240Z. And I've failed. I could never get anything working well enough that I could be happy with it. I've tried two different ZX distributors, a total of three different E12-80 modules, a Pertronix ignitor in the stock 240Z distributor, and four different coils (original 240Z, original ZX, new aftermarket ZX & 3.0Ω Pertronix). It's worth noting that all three of the distributors I've tried had good vacuum advance units and no slop in the shaft bushings. Good, solid dizzies. I've fought pinging from bad advance curves, ignition washout at higher revs, and sometime both. I've swapped plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. around several times in a concerted attempt to make this work. (It probably doesn't help my confidence in this knowing of at least three E12-80 failures in the past few years around these parts, either.) Try as I might, I haven't been able to get anything to work as well and trouble-free as the stock points. I'm not an idiot, I've been working on and restoring old cars for decades. But I've certainly failed here. Yes, I'll concede that a good electronic ignition should be superior to the stock points. But for a weekend GT touring car, the points are probably good enough. I'll also concede that considering how many people have made this work on their cars, perhaps my car itself is at fault. (Perhaps too much voltage drop at the ignition?) But on the other hand, there's plenty of threads here with people having issues with electronic ignition conversions, so maybe I'm not alone. At this point I'm not convinced that either the ZX ignition or the Pertronix are the answer. Maybe the Mallory Unilite is better, but that's too much money for a stock L24. I'm still open to suggestions. I've got a Pertronix Ignitor and 3.0 Ω coil sitting on the bench right now. If someone can give me a clue, maybe I'll try again. Or not. It's running great on the points right now....
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