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willybowden

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About willybowden


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  1. alright, heres what i got. 2 wires off module. C is going to neg, B to pos. No ground wire off dizzy is present. never had the zx mount for dizzy, so after snapping off one of the mounting bolts, used a U clamp to hold it in place, due to it not lining up with the factory base. Wondering how crucial the grounding is on this system. Do I need to add a wire from the base to the body? Like I said, it used to run fine, other than always running rich. After sitting over the winter, just cant get it straight. Also, removed all 4 components outta the top of the carbs yesterday and poked and blew through, for what its worth. Thanks again.
  2. yes, and actually there are 4 cold ones, the front 4. cap, rotor, and wires all have less than 1000 miles of runtime. will try and post some pics, but not too savy at it. thanks guys.
  3. now it seems that its only warm on 2 of the exhaust tubes. gonna change distributors asap. found one that doesnt have the module made on it, but doesnt look like points. has a 2 wires coming off and a plug on the end? any suggestions on wiring it up, or what else is needed to do so. Thanks, and sorry its been a while, not too much free time lately.
  4. could be getting too much fuel.
  5. In my experience, when the regulator went bad, the motor flooded drastically. I mean it wouldnt make it out of the driveway. Seems like I could crimp the rubber fuel line and it would run better. good luck.
  6. everything looks perfect. The carbs came off a 260z parts car I bought and was running fine. Bolted on to the 77 block and fired right up. It always ran fine for about 30 miles or so, then fouled some plugs. Now after sittin for the past 6 months, it just seems like a missfire. A fresh set of plugs always did the trick in the past, but not this time. Will get back to work on it asap. Once again, thanks for all the help. I've learned alot.
  7. thanks guys. love the video. wires were correct to start with, couldnt be that simple. I'm using an aftermarket electric fuel pump, Holley I belive, mounted in the engine bay. Tried a generic fuel pressure regulator once, but made no difference. Figured if it was pushing past the floats I'd see raw fuel dumping out. Cant remember which distributor i'm using, but i have 2 wires off the top of the module going to each side of the coil. also looks like there is a place on the side of the module for a clip of some kind. filled her up with high test before starting this venture. Running NGK BPR6ES plugs now gapped at 42 instead of 38, just to try something different. Car hadnt been cranked in maybe 6 months or so. Any other ideas? Thanks fellas.
  8. Now I'm not to sure about the wires being crossed. Ive found 3 different books saying 3 different things!!! Gotta take a break before I lose it. Arent all the in line 6's wiring the same. Got a 79 sitting here, and I swear its different!!! HELP!!!
  9. well I finally got around to setting the screws at a little less than 1 turn. Car wouldnt hardly run. put them at a little less that 1 1/2 and seemed much better, BUT, the car still sounds like its missing on 1 cylinder. Pulled each wire and put a plug in it in a dark garage, and each one lit up nicely. Its acting like it still has a fouled plug. I pulled them and cleaned them with a wire brush, again. I do have an electronic distributor on it, just two wires going to the coil. Very frustrating!!! If I could ever get this thing to run right I'd be amazed. Should I run a compression check to make sure somethings not stuck? Any advice is greatly appreciated. ps just figured out a couple of things. In my haste, must've crossed #3 and #6 plug wires. I know, pretty stupid. Anyway, believe the new plugs could be gas fouled already. Secondly, upon removing the top of carb #1, the paper gasket is deteriorated badly. Soooo, I suppose I'm gonna replace all the paper gaskets, then try a new set of plugs and try this all over again. Fun fun fun. thanks for putting up with me fellas. pss Where should I get the gaskets?
  10. thanks guys. this has been very helpful. Cant find a good z man is SC anymore. I'm probably the last one left in spartanburg. will report back with findings asap.
  11. idle jets are 45 F9, main jets are 125, air correctors are 170. still gotta check the chokes. Air screws were set in a pattern from front to back at 1 1/2 then 2 1/2. Carbs do say weber, bologna, brevedito? made in italy. gonna try posting pic if i can figure it out.
  12. Other than the Chokes, main jets, and air correctors, are there any other componets like idler jets or something odd like that. Seems like it really loads up at idle, but has always been gassy and fumy. Gonna pull em off and check the choke size asap.
  13. Hell yeah, thanks a million. I had the emullsion tube out the other day, I believe the main jet said 130. I'll check on the chokes asap. It's a bone stock 77 model L-28, dont know if this matters. Thanks again!
  14. 280z's were fuel injected, an added benefit. Not sure if some later models(77 and 78) had 5 speed trannys, but some had the R200 rearend instead of the R180, a little bit stronger. I just hated the bumpers on the 280z's. The thin ones looked so much better. Oh, and 77 and 78's had vented hoods.
  15. My brother just informed me of 2 Chevy 5.3 motors complete with EVERYTHING from gas pedal to radiator, tranny, etc, with 60,000 miles on them. Cars were used in movie productions and after the movie were removed from Suburbans. $1000 each. What do you guys think? I've had several v8 cars and was very impressed. I hear these motors are 320 HP stock with alot of room for improvement just by tuning. Would this be an option instead of worrying about my tripple weber tuning issue? Can do the conversion myself. I'm just contemplating the cost of tuning the webers(and finding someone capable of doing it), possibly selling the webers for several hundred dollars to offset the $1000? Anyway, your opions would be most appreciated.
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