five&dime

Ron, Are you referring to Pete Brock's orange 510? If so, a guy named Dave in MD from the 510 forum bought that car from Pete a few years ago. He has a great shot of the two of them in front of the car with Pete signing the title The car is immaculate!!

Apparantly the 240 seals are NLA from Nissan but you can use the 280 seals which are one piece.

Any word? Is the clunk gone?

Carl, I love how you reference "How it's made". That is one of my favorite shows! What a great insight into the world of manufacturing. Makes you look at simple things from toothpicks to Mac trucks, etc. in a whole different light. Brandon

Zbane.... Any idea how far that place is from Richmond, VA? I would love to come down there and get some shots with my DSLR. Any 510's there btw??

Disclaimer: Not to be taken seriously

Isn't it sad when a rusty ole B210 is more valuable than 100 shares of Ford or GM stock!!!!!

My BMW as do most had that problem as well. They were supposed to clean that stuff of upon arrival from overseas. Most never did. I re-painted the bay in my BMW when my dad and I did the motor swap.

I just suck it up and pay careful attention to wind direction. The first time I got a cross wind and got blasted in the face by a miniscule amount of the overspray was the last

Isn't that why we all have daily drivers?

Just be careful and do not get that stuff in your eyes. It burns like hell even when you get overspray on your skin. I love the drop cloth method b/c there really isn't any cleanup. Good luck on your project!!

^ Absolutely. Why buy a car if you never drive it??? I am still considering pursuing the famous 510 known as Miss Dottie. The current owner and I have been talking about a possible trade deal. He says he doesn't like the car b/c he can't drive it with 36k original miles. I would have no problem whatsoever driving Miss Dottie I don't even really consider resale when I buy a car. Somehow I still end up making money on 1/2 the cars I sell

I'm glad both of us are right b/c in this economy.... neither one of us can afford to bet and be wrong. We have to have all our extra cash to put into our Babies A.K.A Datsun's As far as my exhaust leak goes, my exhaust does not have an extended tip so I think that should be my first order of business. Thanks for all the great info!!!

By flat section do you mean a small flat section only wide enough for an emblem not the whole width of the spoiler.

geezer, My dad and I are having a debate regarding the exterior appearance of the spoiler you posted. I recall that spoiler having a raised or indented section along the right side which looks like it is for an emblem. Is that right or am I thinking of another spoiler i.e. the 432? I know that Eiji's orange G nose car has the rear spoiler I am referring to.

My vote is for both spoilers. I wish I could do something to prevent the exhaust gasses from coming in through the truck of my 510 Kills me when the windows are rolled down as it seems to create a vacuum

Wow Jim!!! That's a great site. I commend you for the amount of time that must have taken. Spot on with your information too. Well done. Cheers, Brandon

I don't think many people buying a Z of this caliber care about A/C. I wouldn't even want a Z with A/C as the system was garbage anyway I can't see the link at work but if this car is like the sellers other Z's he has sold then mid-high 20's is a steal. Just ask my dad how much it costs to restore a Z car to this level And we have done a lot of work ourselves

The one good thing I know about soda blasting is that they have mobile guys that will do that. Since the media is bio friendly they can blast it in your yard. Of course you would still want to do it in an open space that is out of the way as it does create a mess. I have always been told as stated here that if soda is used it needs to be post rinsed. I have no experience with either but I like the idea of the media blaster coming to me I always use aircraft stripper and a 6" DA sander

If you want to go to bare metal, I recomend going to Napa or wherever and grabbing about 5-10 cans of aircraft stripper. Far better than normal paint stripper. Spray on. Wait an hour and scrape off with a putty knife like butter. Put a few drop cloths down b/c that stuff is nasty when it comes off. Then ball them up and dispose of properly. I would not reccomend hand sanding as it will take you most of your life I use aircraft stripper first and foremost then a air powered D/A sander. Be careful not to use too course of gritt as sand marks are a bitch to get out. Bondo is best applied to bare metal. After all that, I hit the car with etching primer that bonds to the metal. Then an epoxy primer. I prefer PPG but you will need an compressor and a decent paint gun. I started with a cheap $100 kit with 2 HVLP guns and a detail gun but have since stepped it up to a $450 Devilbiss paint gun. The key is prep work. Cutting corners will cost you in the long run. It just depends on how far you want to go. I pretty much taught myself with some advice from a few local pros. I also agree with POR15. It's the best for rust prevention. As far as to how long is acceptable for a car to sit before paint..... It can sit as long as you want if it is indoors. All you have to do is scuff up the old primer (i.e. the primer you may have sprayed from previous years work) and lay another coat of fresh primer after you pre-clean the scuffed surface. You may also want to grab some tack cloths which are pieces of fabric with light adhesive to remove dust and particles. If the car sits outdoors, that is different. Most primers are penetrable and will dmage the body if outside for too long. That is also why I use PPG epoxy primer as it is the most durable of primers from what I have been told. Whenever you are going to shoot, you want to have laid down new primer within a few days prior to shooting. If you shoot over old primer you may have trouble with the new finish. Hope this helps Please PM me if you have more specific questions. I have painted a number of cars now in my garage.

Few more updated pix of the passenger side getting prepped. She should be totally primed in a week or two <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2984108448/" title="guy 28 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3015/2984108448_f6ced0e825_b.jpg" width="1024" height="766" alt="guy 28" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2983252659/" title="guy 30 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3196/2983252659_02a1ae6bdc_b.jpg" width="1024" height="766" alt="guy 30" /></a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2984108620/" title="guy 31 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3020/2984108620_3146882cb8_b.jpg" width="1024" height="766" alt="guy 31" /></a>

The pop under acceleration sounds like my dad's issue (Diseazd) His turned out to be the rear bushings for the control arms being bad. He replaced them with poly bushings and no problems now. Could also be U-joints. Unless your car has been upgraded it shouldn't have C/V's

Passenger side body work. It's getting close to paint The rear quarter is very nice. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/14049800@N00/2967602421/" title="P1010008 by RVAE34, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3147/2967602421_d19d15cc48_b.jpg" width="1024" height="766" alt="P1010008" /></a>

Nice score!! My dad and I (diseazd) found a rust free 72 at the local yard!!!! We were absolutely shocked. It had been stripped but we managed to get two rust free doors, a perfect hatch with glass and some miscelaneous other parts. Unfortunately the only part we really wanted was the passenger dogleg which had been hit prior The car was originally from Chicago so we haven't a clue how there was no rust. It still had the windy city Z club sticker on the 1/4 window. I didn't even want to take pix b/c you all would be sick!!

I love fresh paint. PPG is my favorite brand to shoot too. Looks great!!!