TomoHawk

Do you really think it's wise to drink coffee and then get into your sportscar ( or muscle car, or whatever) and drive around? I dunno about something like this for my area, because we have local cruise-ins every night of the week!

Mine had a half-cap, and when I pulled it off, it pulled up chunks of the vinyl from the original dash. I found out that the PO used something like liquid nails (!) to attach the cap. I will probably have to use RTV silicone stuff instead of velcro, unless I can manage to get mine to shape itself better to the dash. I think mine was from Too Intense. It fits ( or used to ) fine, but the holes for the odometer & lamp dimmer knobs are in the wrong places.

the outboard end of mine is broken off, and I can't tell where it attaches by the door. Are there any pictures of this part? Maybe I can repair or rebuild mine. thxZ

Why not just remove the back seat, and leave the body as-is? It might look a little odd, being a foot longer than a 2-seater, but you never know, some customs have come from odder sources! :cheeky: A Z car station wagon? Otherwise, as others have said, sectioning the entire car in the door area (and the driveline, brake lines, fuel lines) would be the way to go. I suppose if your skills were "really good" you could section the body and use the doors from a 2-seater? To play the devil's advocate- Assuming you just remove the back seat, you'd have the empty space behind the front seats to fill with something. All the driveline and outer body mechanicals would be the same. If you wanted the "look" of the 2-seater, you'd need to build a bulkhead behind the seats for the toolbox/storage areas, and then extend the rear deck cover forward to the edge. Then some custom vinyl and/or carpet to cover things. If you were to go that route, I'd suggest getting some pictures and then sketching the goal on large sheets of paper. You may end up deciding not to go through with things. If you were going to shorten the body, digital pictures could help. Just chop the body & see if you could squish it together for a start. thxZ

You need Tom Cruise to get some hookers together and stage a one-night sex ordeal to make lotsa money, and then you could buy a new car!

If you lose something (like your keys) someone will say "where did you lose them?" If I know where I lost my keys, I'd go straight there and get them! Three things drive the Average 'American' to do EVERYTHING they do: 1- Vanity 2- Greed 3- Fear In that order of importance.

I suppose all you need is to take with you a cardboard pattern of the bolt holes, and check the diameter of the axle bolt to see if whatever motor you look at wil work,no?

So as of June, 2008, if you wanted to go autocross, some drag racing, or maybe even some hot-lapping (like at Mid-Ohio during the convention) you could use an open-face M2000 or an SA 2000 rated helmet? thxZ

Right. It's the design of the I.C. engine that needs more work. If you want to, you could also say that all those I.C. engines are busy helping global warming with all those radiators doing their thing and dumping all the heat the engine is creating! Why not come up with an I.C engine that generates no heat? (yeah, right) :lick:thxZ

IMO, the ethanol thing isn't going to do anything about global warming. No matter what fuel you put into your internal-combustion engine, you're still going to get out smoke, soot and CO2! No mater what, it's still the same dirty design that was invented in the 1960s. It's just a way to keep Detroit from closing down by allowing them to make the same dirty, inefficient wngines that people want to satify their idea that they need a car with 300 HP to go 100 MPH down the local freeway. A Honda hybrid, OTOH, can get 53 MPG, but at 59 MPH. Fusion? Nuclear power? We might as well have flying cars! :eek: Try cars that run on hydrogen, or no fuel at all, like solar.

I was just thinking about the volour of the heater panel screws ( on my 280Z.) I was going to paint them the same colour as the dash cap so they will blend in.

Wood screws, sheet-metal screws; same thing to me. It's basically a #8 or #10 flathead phillips screw.

AFAICT, those screws are like 1/2", #10 wood screws, but with a raised phillips head. They should not be too difficult to find. Installing them andgetting the dask cap underneath with out chipping the paint is another matter tho. :surprised

Are you planning on returning the stuff people sent to you? thxZ

You need to look into your 's laws on the emisions converter. Where I live, if the car came with one, you can't take it off, unless to replace it, and a muffler shop absolutely won't take off a good one. In fact, muffler shops local to me won't even work on the exhaust system if the car is missing the converter.

I have never made a comment in the Boobs topic... OTOH, it looks like Full_House doesn't speak much English, so his posts aren't as verbal as other's. And it seems he comes up with the same conclusions 30 or 40 posts after something is said ( like where the website for the 2008 ZCCA convention is, andjust discovered a day ago.) thxZ

Thanks for the part #. RockAuto doesn't have it, but maybe Autozone will. thxZ

I am just concerned with the ground connections between things like the engine & body, trans & body, etc. Those things which could be isolated with rubber bushings. I usually do take my Dremel with a wire brush to any exposed connectors that don't look like they would make a good ground, and shine them up a little.

Yeah, I forget the number. I was thinking of the Maxima trans. I was going to add some ground wires to the engine to improve the electricals, and the transmission is one thing to get better grounded. thxZ

Are you using separate circuits for the headlamps and the running lamps/gauges? Putting all those lights on one circuit could definitely blow a fuse. Datsun separated them for a reason on the 280Z, and even had a fuse link for the headlamp circuit and a separate fuse for each lamp. You can put some other low-power stuff on the same circuit as the running lamps, but be careful there even. thxZ

On my 280Z, the trans (Jatco 3NL41B) will only kickdown occasionally under high vacuum conditions (at any speed), and I've never heard the kickdown solenoid clicking, so I checked it out. BTW- the trans was totally 'rebuilt' a couple years ago, and only has about 2,000 niles on it since. I checked the voltage at the switch: 12.2 volts, which is just a hair less than the battery. Then I put a shunt wire direct from the battery to the solenoid wire where the switch is on the gas pedal. Still no solenoid click. If the kickdown solenoid does work, then the only thing I can think of is that the solenoid doesn't have a god ground. Since I can't get under the car, I will have to get it to the trans shop and have the guy check the solenoid. Unless there is something else to try. thxZ

The convention hotel is just straight up I-77 at I-480, and only the car show is in Berea. Some locals are just going to commute every day ( after getting 3 hours of sleep.)

For those who have procrastinated in getting registered, there already about 70 people signed up, and some of them have even paid! :tapemouth So if you are interested in the judged show or hot-lapping, it would be advisable to get registered and pay up, because you might lose your spot, and the fees are helping to get great goodie-bag stuff, chartered busses, party food, and other great stuff! :laugh: thxZ

Dude, You are so close to Cleveburg that you could easily make it for the convention (Sep. 28 - Oct.3) Check my signature for the link.We also have lots of Z drivers in Northern Ohio, if you are interested in getting hooked up (http://www.clevelandzclub.com )

Did you remove all the bumpers, grilles, mouldings, lights, and etc. from your car before doing the painting?