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Marty Rogan

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Everything posted by Marty Rogan

  1. Thanks for the tips guys. I didn't even think to check their website. Marty
  2. My 70 with Pertronix unit installed died yesterday. Was sitting at a light. It was not holding an idle. Had to keep feeding it gas. Then it just started loosing power and died. Couldn't get it started again. It seems to have a very weak spark. I was thinking the Pertronix might have fried. Is there anyway to test it??? TIA, Marty
  3. Marc, I really hate when people don't respect others property. Its really hard to tell from digital pix how bad things really are. It may be possible for a Paintless Dent Repair shop to get that out. Recently, the wind blew a metal framed lawn bag holder into my fender. It dented it and put a mild crease into it. They removed the dent so well, you would never know it was dented. Cehck them out. It cost me $60. You may also be able to get the scrape wet sanded out. I would have it professionally done though. Hope it works out for you. Marty
  4. I can't directly answer your question. I have heard however, that it is VERY expensive to build a stroker motor correctly. Putting a turbo in there should be plenty of power increase. With inter-coolers and upgrade turbos, and engine management, you can get some serious HP from a turbo motor. Marty
  5. Nice set of mesh wheels in size 15x7. No curb rash, excellent condition. Strangely, they don't have a brand name on them. From looking at several pictures of different brands, they look like Rikens, but I don't know for sure. They come with brand new chrome valve stems. Sorry, I never had the centercaps. More pics upon request. Asking $275 obo. Marty
  6. I got mine from Classic Datsun Motorsport. It's $28 a can, but it is a perfect match. Marty
  7. Chris is right. the bracket is the same blue as the engine block. Nuts, washers & bolts are the goldish zinc color. Marty
  8. Victor, It seems like 17 offset would be a lot. An offset of 0 is recommended. Interesting wheels though. Where can you get the K-1's or Volks? One other issue that I am having is that I put on the Toyota 4-piston calipers (very wide), with vented rotors. I actually picked up a nice set of Enkei mesh style wheels and they would not clear the calipers. (Might be for sale, PM me if you are interested) I put the Panasports on that were on my show car and they fit fine. So I am going to need a wheel that provides extra clearance beyond where the hub ends. Panasports bow outward in the spoke area to provide extra clearance. I would hate to order new wheels and still have a clearance problem. Anyone use the K-1 or Volks with the Toyota brakes? Marty
  9. I was just looking at the Motorsport website at the Panasport wheel prices. They list the 15"x6" size at $189.95 and the 15"x7" size at $219.95. I intend to put 225x15x50 tires on them. Is it worth spending $30 per wheel more for the 7" wide size, or would it make much of a difference? This is going on my high speed autocross car. TIA, Marty
  10. I am just getting started withthis project. Just ordered that hose from Chloe last week. she did not have the number, but I got it from another member and ordered it from her. The number I am getting is: 17235-E4101, around $30 like Gary said. Hope to get the part this week. Marty
  11. You could try Ultimate Z in Streamwood: http://www.ultimatez.com They usually have a bunch of parts and parts cars around. A friend of mine got a complete running L-24 from them for $300. They aren't far from you either. Marty
  12. Last month I had my stock '71 on the dyno. It pulled 114 HP at the rear wheels, at 5750. So, that is about what you can expect from a stocker. Another 240Z pulled 112 that same day. Forgot what the torque #'s were. Marty
  13. Unless you are doing other work to beef up the engine (cam, bigger valve, L28 bottom), an L-24 would be over carburated. You won't get the full potential out of them. I had tripple Webers back in the early 80's. They were hard to dial in properly. Be careful as they tend to leak! I would definitely put a shield between the carbs and the exhaust/headers, to gard against heat and FIRE! Webers did in that car, after 7 years of restoration. Middle carb leaked on the header and roasted the whole car. It shut done Rte 53 in Illinois for an hour. The blase was so intense no-one would pass it. Wish I knew then, what I know now. Personally, you could not give me a set of Webers. Properly built and tuned SU's will get you about the same performance. Get some Z Therapy SU's. they are beautiful, perform well, and one hell of a lot cheaper than Webers. Well, that's my 2 cents worth anyway. Marty
  14. Thanks Carl, I have been off for a couple of days and did not have time to read many posts. I agree, he is a nice guy. Always wondered what was done to that car. Sounds like he did a lot of work to it. Definitely looks better without the stripe on the hood! You really would need a large inheritance to keep that around. Wish I had one myself. Marty
  15. Hey 26th, Is that the 240Z from Florida, that was bought by one of our members in NY about a year or so ago? If it is, I wonder why he is selling it? Marty
  16. Hi Guys, Well I think I got it fixed over the weekend. Went back and bleed the mast again. Got a ton of air out of the rear MC tube. Took 2Many's advice and adjusted the rear brakes tighter. Bleed more and it feels pretty good now. Drove it around a little bit and it brakes very nicely. It has a good firm pedal feel now. Got to brake in the pads/rotors more before I can really see what the upgrade is like. I don't feel quite as bad about this, since my buddy Bill, who has the same brake set up is having real problems bleeding his brakes too. I think the extra pistons must really trap a lot of air in there. Thanks for all the tips and tricks. They really helped. Marty
  17. Thanks Lance. I thought of that later too. Later in my journey, I always started at the Master and then went to the corners. Marty
  18. Thanks for the explaination. I am taking tomorrow off from work and will give these a try. If you go with the ZX Master, would you have to reverse the lines, like you would on the 72/73 MC? Any other mods required to make that one work? Marty
  19. Mike, as I said in the post, I installed SpeedBleeders. Won't do this without them. 2Many, The Brakes actually worked great before, and I know the MC was replaced by the PO. I would not think the MC would just go bad on you during an upgrade. When you say, pull up the hand brake a notch or two, do you mean from completely off? Or in addition to where it normally pulls up to? How do you adjust the pedal? Would adding the 4 pots put that out of adjustment? Keep the ideas coming. Thanks, Marty
  20. Ok, a little background before we get started. I am doing a Toyota 4 piston caliper upgrade to my '71 autocross car. The brakes actually worked really well before I started, but the car is going to be doing high speed autocross at the track, so I wanted something even better. All the parts went in pretty easy. Finding longer metric bolts for the hubs was a trip though. Re-bending the caliper hard lines was a little tricky too. I put in new Speed Bleeders too. So, I start bleeding. Started with RR, LR, RF, LF, and then Master. I put 3 quarts of Valvoline DOT 3/4 Synthetic through and the pedal goes stright to the floor. Bleed the MC and all corners a dozen times each. Then I found Rick's racer trick. Took the front brake pads out one at a time, stepped on the brake to get the pistons out, and then pushed 'em back in with channel lock pliers. Did this probably 10 times on each piston, till I didn't see any more bubbles coming out. I was amazed at how much air was still in there. The pedal feel improved SLIGHTLY. Still feels soft, way softer than I want for an autocross car. I have gone though 4 1/2 quarts of fluid now and the brakes feel worse than before the upgrade. I haven't even felt confident enough in them for a test drive. So, what do I do now??? Any new tricks or suggestions would be appreciated. Marty
  21. Hi Kats, That is an interesting theory. It does not sound practical, however. It would seem more likely that Nissan would make an insurance claim to recover the damages. In that case the insurance company would probably take possession of the car and have it scrapped over here. Shipping it back to Japan would be too costly for a car that would be parted out. But who knows, stranger things have happened. I have heard a few stories over the years that I would like to get to the bottom of. Like whatever happened to the 3 240Z's that were shipped to Canada for cold weather testing? They would likely be VIN#'s between -009 and 015. One story had them sitting in a warehouse up there all these years. Wouldn't that be a thrill to find and buy those cars! Another guy I met here in Chicago used to work at a ditribution depot where they unloaded Z's from railroad cars and put them on trucks for final delivery to dealers. He said alot of car were damaged in the process. As the story goes workers would routinely take home engines, trans and other parts off the wrecked cars. This guy claims to have gotten his whole 240Z that way, but I cannot confirm that as true. Interesting stories, though nearly impossible to confirm. Marty
  22. IT may be possible that you are overcharging the battery. This happened to my 70 a few years ago. One of the wires leading into my voltage regulator corroded and broke right at the connection, inside the VR plug. On a long trip up to Road America, it overcharged and cooked the new battery. The battery was making a weird sound and then started sinking to high heaven when it became well done! Get your charging system checked out or you may need a new battery along with whatever else is casusing the problem. Marty
  23. Zhead, Sure, I wouldn't mind checking out a local Z. Many members have done it or offered to do it for me when I was looking. I would definitely suggest someone knowlegable with Z's check it out before I bought a plane ticket. Lacking that I had a Nissan dealer check outmy last one. Marty
  24. Zhead, You did the right thing passing on that car. Too many things just don't add up. I have a kind of rule of thumb that I go bywhen looking at cars. If I don't like the owner, I will usually pass on the car. If the guy is a class A jerk like this guy, he is probably lieing through his teeth and/or has abused the car too. Check out http://www.collectorcartraderonline.com/ There are 48 240Z's for sale there right now. Also keep an eye out on ZCar.com and websites from Z Car clubs. It will probably way cheeper for you in the end to travel for a rust free nice car. You can get some pretty cheap air fair or better yet free if you have frequent flyer miles. Paying a fair price for a car that has already been refreshed is cheaper than buying a fixer-upper and paying to fix it. Good luck on the hunt! Marty
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