AZ-240z

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Hello Zulaytr, I'm the guy that goes went first or second against you at the shows last year. I appreciate the input and am trying to make my orange z your equal ( I have a long way to go). I found a metal shroud and need to paint it along with the radiator. In your research, do you believe that the radiator is, also, painted a satin (almost gloss) black to match the shroud. My memory won,t go back 34 years accurately. Thanks for your thoughts and I'll try to find some pictures of your car from the show. Dan Original Owner, 1/71 240Z hls30-20419 IZCC#12324

Hello Zulaytr, I'm the guy that goes went first or second against you at the shows last year. I appreciate the input and am trying to make my car orange z your equal ( I have a long way to go). I found a metal shroud and need to paint it along with the radiator. In your research, do you believe that the radiator is, also, painted a satin (almost gloss) black to match the shroud. My memory won,t go back 34 years accurately. Thanks for your thoughts and I'll try to find some pictures of your car from the show. Dan Original Owner, 1/71 240Z hls30-20419 IZCC#12324

Thanks for your input, Ron. I, too, am the original owner of my 1/71 car, which is now only for club activities and shows. As I live in Phoenix, I have need for the shroud and splash pan, as they definitly keep her cooler. My interest is in correctness in stock class, and that appears to still be in the defining stages. Items can be removed when needed, to be correctly stock. There is growing interest in stock, original cars as witnessed by 26TH-Z and Kats. Did you have any thoughts on the color of the fan shroud, Ron?

Please forgive any errors made in posting this, as this is my first attempt at a new thread. I am restoring my 1/71 series 1 to original, and, although my car was dealer delivered without the shroud, I do have dealer installed York A/C. I have a metal shroud and need to paint it the correct black,. ie, matt, semi, or gloss black. Anyone know the correct color? The radiator, I am assuming from factory pictures, is gloss black. Thanks, and I hope to be more of a hands on participant on this terrific sight. There are many knowledgable people here, and the bias is to maintaining the classic 240. Dan 1/71 240z hls30-20419 IZCC# 12324

I have research old archives for an answer, but came up empty. Does anyone know the shade of black used on factory early metal fan shrouds? The radiator is gloss black, but is the shroud matt, semi, or gloss black? 26th-Z, if you see this, you may have an answer, as your research is always pretty accurate. I am going for as close to 100% original as possible on a series 1 that I bought new, but without a shroud. Thanks in advance for your thoughts on this. Dan IZCC# 12324 1/71 240Z hls30 20419

Just a thought about that dash. I had talked to Pierre of Pierre Z about availability of dashed for the "Restoration Project". He had told me that since the availability of NOS series 1 dashed had dried up, he was forced to use later dashes. The covered lighter hole is the way those dashes came in the box. I used one in my series 1 car for the same reason. I am sure that it is not a restored dash, but NOS. Dan Original owner HLS30 20419 Restored to original

Hi Kats, Just some information on the oil pressure sending unit, in the back of Wick Humble's book, if you have that, on restoring a 240-z, (I don't have the book with me or I would give you a reference page), he gives all of the part numbers, and explains which oil pressure gages go with which sending units. Hope this helps. Dan _______________ 1971 Series 1 240-Z HLS30-20419 L24-027116

26th-Z Talked to you briefly at the 2004 nationals, the guy you had kind words for who go 2nd in stock class. Anyway, are these alternators you are discussing with Kats the grapefruit sectioned 45A early alternators, and did you have Nissan to the restore? I have been trying to find one for some time. Dan HLS30-20419

Thanks 2manyzs and Bambikiller240. Thats a big help. I'll check out the part numbers and see what else Chloe can do for me. My car is basically done, but with inspiration from Kats, I my never finish trying to make it perfect. I hope its not a curse, because I am having way too much fun.

Hi group, I read posts daily but, 'till now, haven't participated much. I have an early '71 Z, pretty much restored to (concours?) original and need a resource for the plastic fasteners that hold the front rubber door/window post seals to door body. Also, need the fasteners to attach the lower door rubber splash guards to bottom of doors. If anyone can lead me to a source for these fasteners, it would be greatly appreciated. While I am here, does anyone have the small seals that fit in the upper foreward corner of the quarter windows? They are a small rubber, T-shaped seal that seals the upper rear corner of the door window frames and the upper forward corner of the quarter windows. I realize that I am a Z-fanatic, and hope to find others just as plagued. Thanks for listening and any help that this list may offer. Dan

Hi Guys, This is a general question to the forum. Is there a way to measure an E-31 head to determine if it has been shaved below tolerances while still installed on the engine, or, must it be pulled to get an accurate measurement? Thanks for your input. Dan

Hello Group. I don't post often but I follow discussions on this forum daily. I have a restored to factory specs 71 series 1 Z and have done everything seen in this forum to solve my cars warm disposition. The latest, which had a large impact on the gage reading, was to correct the gage reading by adding 5 ohms of resistance in series with the heat sensor. I used Joseph Demers article in the summer 2003 Sports Z mag to validate and correct the gage. Instead of physically taking out the gage and risking breaking it by moving the needle as he suggested, I used a correcting resistance at the heat sensor. anyway, my thought and question to all. With the close proximity of the thermostat housing and heat sensor to the exhaust manifold, how likely is it, in your opinions, that the heat sensor is being adversely affected by this parasitic heat and is measuring exhaust manifold heat along with coolant water temp? I did use an infra-red thermometer and got a temp reading on my car of 240+ F on the bottom of the thermostat housing where the temp sensor is located and a reading of 195 F at the top of the housing. All other areas of the engine read 185-195 F range. These are just my observations and would be interested to hear your thoughts.

A question for the cooling system experts about the indicated water temp on my early '71 240z. Referencing Joseph Demers article ,"Steaming Over Your Z" in the summer 2003 issue of Sports Z magazine, I am trying to determine what my temp gage should be reading. I have put together a series of resistors equal to 37.3 Ohms which is equivalent to 185 degrees F. according to Dr. Demers and plugged it into the temp circuit to check where the needle on my gage falls, which is one needle width right of center. My question to everyone, given that the min gage reading is 120 degrees and the max reading is 250 degrees, would you all agree, or not, that the middle of the gage index is equal to 185 degrees. ( 250 - 120 = 130; half of 130 = 65; 120 + 65 = 185) If my reasoning is correct, I have determined that if I add in 5 Ohms to my temp sending unit circuit, the gage should read 185 degrees and be exactly in the center of the gage. Sorry for the long post, but I need to have an accurate temp gage in the AZ climate. Thanks for listening and for your help.

Hi Guys, I am an avid reader but infrequent contributor to this forum. I do need some help and thought that someone may know. I am installing a splash pan on my newly restored 1971 Series 1 240 in hopes that it may help in aiding the effectiveness of the rad. cooling fan. I need to know the bolt size and thread pitch for the bolts that mount the pan and would appreciate any info. Thanks Dan

Great topic, Harry. I am the proud original owner of a ''71 series 1 Z which has recently undergone a frame up, very original, restoration. My main point; there aren't that many series 1 cars left that are in restorable condition. Of those, most will probably be highly modified instead of restored to factory specs due to the availability and cost of original parts. Value was not the primary consideration for doing this restoration which cost me in the $30,000 range, but I have been told by those in the business that I got off cheap. Nissan ended up doing only about 40 instead of 200 restorations due to availability of part. Considering all of these factors, I believe that these original restorations will rapidly increase in value in the near future. My car has many new, not reconditioned ,parts that can only be found, very rarely, in dusty store rooms or in the dreams of a restorer. I am by no means wealthy, but, having owned this car for over 32 years, this is something I had to do, something my wife and friends will never understand.

I am interested in seeing your MSA pics. Could you possibly provide a link to them or tell me where I can go to find them. Thanks