AZ-240z

Norm in Vancouver BC has a web sight at www.zeddsaver.com and advertises rebuilt horn for sale. He may be able to advise you, if you can get ahold of him, or work out something with yours as a core charge for his rebuilt horns. Good luck. Dan

Hello Carl, Wow,,,I think that you have pretty well summed up the state of the Cadmium and Zinc plating industry as it has evolved into it's current status. I now know why, when I open up that box of screws or nuts, and the part number matches my parts manual, but the color doesn't, it is as a result of eco-friendly changes. I have had a few parts zinc plated with a yellow finish and have been very satisfied with the multi-hue colored finish you discribed as being very similar to some of my NOS parts with the original factory finish. Generally, I'm elated if I find that an original part is available at my Nissan parts counter, and can accept subtle changes as long as the parts numbers match. Thanks for your knowledgable explanations, Carl. You have helped to fill many gaps in my understanding and enjoyment of this hobby. Dan

Dan, I recently had a chance to through the Auburn, Cord and Duesenberg Museum in Indiana and I found the attached poster asking that same question about which is better. I hope you can read it but if not it basically says that you only have original once and that in many cases a restored car is really "over" restored as compared to how it came out of the factory. The comments about the bumper finish are correct in that the originals do have waves and a less deep chrome finish than what you get with a re-plated one. I know a chrome plater in CA that would ask, especially if you are a Corvette owner showing in the NCRS, how do you want it finished? Take care and I hope you are enjoying your fine Z. Regards, Bob Bob, Thanks for taking the time to offering your resource information and observations. This has been my feeling about authentic value. You can never duplicate the real thing, even though the original finish may be inferior to todays standards. I'm am enjoying the car and process of making it more original, piece by piece. Always enjoy hearing your thoughts, Bob. Dan

Sorry geezer. Didn't mean to contradict your info. I have a couple, one slilghtly smaller than the other, and took measurements as they compared to one another. Mine aren't in very good shape, thus the need for new. I am sure that there is a significant variant in mine as compared to yours and arnes after trying to smooth and polish the degraded surfaces. Dan

Will, thanks for putting this on your list, and yes, I think the washer for the earlier antenna as shown by Arne is 6/32 " thick, and the one shown by geezer is 5/32" thick. Arne's washer also has an OD of 15/16", and geezer's is 14/16" OD. Either profile would be correct, in my opinion, but the slightly larger profile might be easier to duplicate, be more durable, and just look better with the other external finisher parts as it also appears to have less taper from bottom to top. Just my impressions, and thanks again Will. Dan

Arne, Thanks for the backup on the picture. The part I am in need of is that black plastic washer under the chrome nut, and am not sure if that is on Will's to-do list. Dan

Will, Actually, on the early antennas, the piece I need is the black plastic washer that sits on top of the semi-spherical chrome piece. On my antenna, looking at the parts from the paint, up, first is the rubber washer with a lip, then the black rubber semi-spherical rubber piece, then the chrome semi-spherical piece which partially covers the last piece, then the black plastic washer that I am looking for, then the chrome nut with a black plastic collar around the top of the nut. Sorry I don't have a picture. Dan

Will, Is one of these thingys the black plastic washer that goes between the chrome nuty and the chrome spherical thingy? Thanks, and can hardly wait to see all the goodys. Dan

Will, I will use a question about Warren's hatch hinge seal query as an excuse to bump this thread for an update. Do you know if these hatch hinge seals were painted, or left black or clear plastic, originally? My opinion would be that the hinges and seals were installed and painted with the rest of the car, except the hatch itself which was painted separately off of the car. It is rare that I have seen an original finished car, and then, didn't thing to look. Looking forward to seeing a steady stream of your repros when your process get rolling. Thanks for all that you do and contribute. Dan

Well, I'll cut these characters, along with you, Chris, a little slack and assume they may know a little something about these early car's subtle nuances. I've seen some NOS bumpers, and, as has been observed in past threads, the chrome has what appears to be brush wheel marks under the chrome and not nearly the depth or luster as new, three strike chrome. But, they are NOS perfect inside and out and I am thinking for total originality, they would be more highly prized by the restorer, as would be the single stage paint with the factory orange peel appearance. Any thoughts on original vs. restored on NOS parts and finishes as seen through the eyes of a collector's or restorer's preferance? I am thinking of hanging all NOS chrome bumpers and overriders and would like opinions. Thanks for the great pics, Chris. More, please, with all the little details. Dan

Chris, Thanks for taking this to Cleveland to verify the finish on these screws. Wish I could have been there to pour over probably some very nice and original cars. In one of my earlier inquiries, Carl was good enough to tell me why the hatch to hinge machine screws were unpainted, and now, due to your diligent efforts, this has, once again, been verified. The screws for the hatch that I got from Nissan were not tapered, though, just flat, countersunk, phillips headed screws with no noticable yellow in the finish, just silver. It is interesting that you noted that the cad finish was a super light yellow finish. My Nissan parts supplier, ( and he pays attention to these early 240z parts), had mentioned to me that the original yellow cad finish on the correct parts numbered hardware for our 240z cars is being supplied by Nissan, now, with a clear, or silver cad finish. In fact, when I bought a box of machine screws with the correct part number to fasten the center and two corner front valence panels together and to the front fenders with those clip-on capture nuts that Kats profiled on his web site, the machine screws, also, had a verrrry light yellow cad finish instead of the more yellow finish used on the original capture nut clips used with those screws. Trivial, maybe, but VERRRRRRRRRRY interesting. Dan

Arne, Zak, Thanks for your speedy replies. My car had been repainted maybe 20 years ago, and, as I wasn't into totally correct at that time, couldn't remember if these little machine screws had factory paint when new. Thanks, again, for helping to clarify this. Dan

Need some verification of originality trivia. The two inspection doors on the 240z are secured by 5MM machine screws. I believe the car came from the factory with these machine screws unpainted and in clear zinc or cad. and were mounted to the car after paint was applied to the doors. Can anyone with an unmolested 240z substantiate that these inspection door machine screws were unpainted? The same thing is true for the rear deck hatch, which is fastened to the hatch hinges with four unpainted flat head phillips machine screws, since the hatch was painted separately and assembled to the car after the finish was applied. Thanks for checking. Dan Original Owner/hls30-20419

I don't want to muddy the waters with what I can remember, but, I, along with geezer, think that at least part of the horns were a dark army green. If you look at the seat fore and aft adjust rod below the seat cushion, it should be that same green color, and I think that the turn signal stalk was also originally the same green. Someone has to have an unrestored horn to confirm the color. Dan

Moonpup, I suggest you re-read Carl's post #25. No one is asking you to understand the attraction many have with cars that have developmental parts incorporated in early examples first offered to the public, and the value attributed to their uniqueness. Just understand the fact that this attraction does exist, in not only collectors, but in those of us who strive to strive for total originality in our early cars. Mine is not early, but one of the very last series 1 cars. Seems to me that I saw the last production number 1967 Corvette auctioned at Barrett-Jackson last year for a premium price because it was the last of the Stingray line. I am afraid that I, too, am aflicted with this attraction, and have been known to buy over-valued parts for my car, just because that was original in March, 1971 when it was first registered. Dan

If it is any help, Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com, lists the links in there on-line catalogue under the title, Customer requests, item #E-28 for 1970-1973 240z for $5.00 each. I have used these from Banzai and they work perfectly, and they would know the amp ratings for different years I am quite sure. Dan

I am afraid that my more conservative view of color schemes may not be your cup of tea, but I thought I would chime in, anyway. One of my favorites is the ghost racing stripes. At first glance, you know that something is different, and upon closer examination the stripes just pop. My suggestion would be the 350Z orange, or yellow, and incorporate ghost stripes to possibly compliment the interior color scheme. Very subtle, but more modern and enduring, instead of bling that you may tire of sooner. Mustange has done this, and I think it is a technique that compliments it's timeless styling without being distacting. Just my 2 cents. Dan Dan

I, too, had talked to Mike at Banzai and was told that the one piece is correct for the earliest cars. My car is a 1/71 series 1 and it was delivered new with the one piece, along with all the other typical series 1 parts. This is one of those gray parts differences, kind of like the two phillips screws with clear plastic finisher washers that were used on very early (ie, 1969 - early 1970) cars to help to fasten the lower edge of the interior door trims panels. I have, since, found many original pictures one ebay confirming that those screws did exist, just don't know through what vin #. E, your knowledge is an invaluable resource to me on this site, and it will be interesting to see if we can pin down the correct vin # range for this weatherstrip. Dan

E, I was always under the impression that the one piece outer hatch weatherstrip is correct for the series 1 cars. Mine has been replaced, many years ago, but I am certain that, when new, my car had the tubular cross section one piece weatherstrip. Banzai sells this one piece in reproduction form for the early cars. Dan

Ron, There are very few things more gratifying than doing something nice for your Z. Nice job, and I know how you feel. Bought hls30-20419 probably a month after you bought your and still restoring. Dan

I would like to say that I am very surprised, and, then again, I am not surprised that this car didn't sell for it's $35,000 "Buy It Now" price. I think that we did get a rare glimse of a seriously collectible 240z that would be offered to serious and capable collectors of fine automobiles. It is my opinion that most of the collectible 240z cars of this superior quality exchange ownership far from the public view so we really do not have a grasp of what comparable pricing would be. I also think that the vagaries of public auctions like ebay are a detraction for most serious collectors who would rather not sell or buy in such an uncertain environment. They do not necessarily seek the bargain price that is the mindset of most ebayers, but will find and pay for the best, and rarest of a particular breed. I think that this was a rare opportunity to own your dream car, not instant equity if you are investing, but a car that will surely pay dividends in enjoyment of ownership and return every dollar should you want to sell in the future. If I had the ability, I would have bought this car in less than a heartbeat, but I would like to qualify my emotional response to the fact that I really don't know what may be better and available someday. Just my opinion. Dan Original Owner hls30-20419

VZ references the Vintage Z Program in the late 1990s when Nissan North American outsources the remanufacture of approximately 41 240z cars to several southern California shops. These cars were to be sold at 10 U.S. dealerships starting at around $25,000 and, I believe, it was a promotional program for the eventual successor, the 350Z. There is much to read if you do a search function for "vintage z program". Dan

Hello mikewags, Just to shed a ray of hope on this, you may just be looking at just taking off the door panel and making some adjustments to the regulators position within the door panel. With my limited experience with these, I have found that, unless the regulator is bent, or the plastic rollers are totally worn out, the regulator can, over time, get knocked or jarred out of postion causing the window to bind in various positions. If you have a factory service manual (Datsun, Haynes, etc.) it should describe pretty well what machine screws need to be readjusted and the degree of adjustment available. There is a lot of trial and error, but eventually you should be able to get it to work properly. I would recommending doing this first before going to the trouble and expense of replacement. Also, try to clean the regulator, as well as you can access, the dry, hardened, dirty grease from the regulator runs and replace with something like white lithium grease. I am sure others here may have additional experience with this, but this has worked for me. Hope this helps, and good luck. Dan

Do a search on "changing differential oil" and you will find out what others have done. Hope this helps. Dan

Hello Kurt, From the info I could find when I researched buying some of those Courtesy US spec springs, I think the following is correct for the Euro Spec Stage 1 springs: Right Front Euro spec stage 1 ------------ Green/Blue Left Front Euro spec stage 1 ----------- Orange/Blue Both Rear Euro spec stage 1 ----------- 2 yellow Hope this is correct and helps. Dan