72zcar

from your description of the car, I would have to say you would have to spend well over your 2000 $ limit and months if not a year or more of weekend work. my vote for what its worth is keep looking:sick:

it all depends what the definition of cheap is, how much is it? Some pics would help. How deep are your pockets? Do you have a garage and tools, and how much time you have. I hate to tell you not to buy it because it may need to be saved or end up wasting away or smashed in a wrecking yard. I bought my 73 for my daily driver for 400 bucks and it was a basket case. Had it running and driving in about 3 weeks, but the work on it continues 5 months later...mainly because I divide my time between my 72 v8 z and my friends 71. Once you start on z's it never ends...ever!

do everything 2-many and ed says then look around for a slut and ask if she will jump up and down...she what that does:classic:

Most likely everything on the car will need to be replaced since it has been sitting for a while...shocks, springs, tie rod ends, ball joints, all rubber around doors, all bushings, will need new tranny and rear end mounts, the list is endless...trust me. then after looking... the first thing I do is get the vin # and plate # and call the dmv (before you buy!!!) and ask if there are any back fees due or any penalties. this is very important since there may be 100's of dollars in fees due to the dmv. dont trust the dude ...he may say its been on non op status but I would check

Check all 12 bolts on the u-joints... and all other bolts but most likely Its the front rear-end mount... .. loose and mushy mustache bar bushings don't make a thud noise:bunny:

oh yeah.... i would check it soon. The movement of the rear-end can cause the driveline bolts to snap... if this happens the driveline can fall off (nothin holding it in the front) and slam around under your z causing your car to go out of control and flip it over... :tapemouth so go check it.

if there is no clicking or clattering or snapping...just a thud then the front mount on the rear-end is broke( the rubber has seperated from the metal) not the tranny mount but the rear-end mount near the driveline rear u-joint if I were u I would check the tranny mount while I was under there, the mount is the same type (metal and rubber) and can seperate. It is near the back of the tranny... but the noise coming from the rear end mount.

eye drops... $^!# in my eye...$^!# in my eye

hand cleaner and rags..

tail light seals: take tail lights off and seal them with silicone. hatch: This is most likely the mail problem. I sealed everything in the car... still got fumes, hatch seal looked fine. Then I bought a roll of thin self adhesive foam strip and put it to the hatch on the underside. not all the way around... only on the bottom side and about 8-10 inches up the sides from the bottom. use the thin stuff. You will have to slam the hatch the first few times. if the hatch won't close take a couple inches off the sides. No more fumes for me at all! I used to drive around crying the fumes were so bad...

i once had a car that the timing chain was so far off... i had to move all the spark plug wires over one on the distributor then play with the timing ..bingo...hahaha hey it workedROFL

I am installing a new electric fan on my L28 in my 71 240z. The old fan (before i bought the car) had the fan thermostat sender was under the top hose on top of the thermostat (radiator side of thermostat) Is this right? it seems like it should be on the engine side of the thermostat... someone set me straight where to install the fan sender......thanks:stupid:

"In my '77 260Z (2 seater of course!) I have the standard L26 with E88 head. I have just changed those awful flat top carbies to the dome top SUs from my '73 240Z. Plans for this car is a complete stroker engine from Japan with individual efi throttle bodies and programmable ecu. Cuong Nguyen, Hey I thought the 260z was only made in 1974... someone will correct me if I'm wrong. Anyway whatever the z is... thats cool...:classic: I started to type whatever it is but that doesn't sound right... like when people call the baby a it... its just wrong

I just installed a new thermostat from msa and a new cap... 160 degrees. It never did open when it was supposed to for the two weeks I have had it installed. On the freeway yesterday the temp gauge went almost to the red line :tapemouth before opening. So I pulled over and took it out... problem solved. So I keep thinking why is this happened... my question is: How many pound cap should I be running and if it is wrong can this prevent the thermostat from opening? I am running a 13 LB cap... Also the spring goes down right??? One more ?? which way does the water travel from the top radiator hose.. does it travel into the radiator or does it travel into the block from the top hose?? I know its possible I just got a bad thermostat... but before I put a new one in I wanted to cover my bases...thanks

If possible take all the spark plugs out and do a compression test. I like to do this to a new car just to see the condition of the rings and valves. If one or more of the cylinders has low compression there is really no reason to put money into plugs, wires etc... time to find out why there is low compression instead. Just my opinion... Good luck:classic: and welome to z-land...it becomes a sickness:tapemouth

The pic of the inside of the roof looks a little like a shot of the earth from the space shuttle... does this help:tapemouth

Chevy 350 Four Bolt main, Edelbrock Intake, Holly 600 cfm Carb, S&S Block Hugger Headers, Dyomax Sidepipes, Pertronix Flame Thrower HEI PerformanceDistributor, 50,000 Volt Flame Thrower Coil, MSD 6A Ignition Box, Taylor Spiro-Pro 8.5mm Ignition Wires, SplitFire Spark Plugs, Moroso Multi Million Dollar Battery Box, Holley Blue Electric Fuel Pump, Flex-a Lite 400 Series Nylon Ultra Light Flex Fan, TH- 350 Tranny with B&M Street and Strip Shift Kit, B&M Mega Ratchet Shifter, Edelbrock Aluminum Victor Series High Volume Water Pump. Ground Control adjustable Racing spension with Eibach 250# ERS springs and Tokico Gas Shocks, BF Goodrich Radial TA Tires 225x70x14 on all four corners Sway bars - 1 1/8 in front and 3/4 in back, MSA Strut tower Bars front and back. :tapemouth

first thing I would check is to see if there is power back by the motor before assuming the motor is bad. MSA does sell the antenna separately without the motor if only the antenna is broke.

page 95 in the new MSA catalog $144.80 +s/h :tapemouth Come with the motor. I would try a wrecking yard first.. Or I'm sure someone on this site may have a spare...

looks like it has the round su carbs...thats a plus. My 73 had the flat top crappy carbs:tapemouth that I quickly did away with...the round top carbs are almost worth the 150$ by themselves if they are in good shape...

no cat on a 71...thats a pre muffler I think its called. If I'm wrong someone can correct me...

Have you tried adjusting the valves... I'm sure you have but you didn't mention it so I thought I would throw it out there...:sick:

sounds like maybe your carbs are not synchronized. Or, one of the carbs is too lean. most likely out of sync:cry: try this site for info on tuning your carbs... http://www.niksula.cs.hut.fi/~mdobruck/siililand/mini/diy/3/su-tune/su-tune.html or this one http://www.ztherapy.com/

Thats what I'm taking about... Flash the headlights... both sets

honks are great! but you have to flash your lights to oncoming zcars. Its the way it is supposed to be and has always been since the 70's.....:classic: maybe most of you guys are not old enough..