Diseazd

Now that’s some beautiful jewelry......I think my wife said she would like jewelry for Christmas!

Sorry Patcon....I don’t remember much about the linkage other than it wasn’t a problem.....pretty much worked with what was there. NVZEE is right about the overflow. I fired up a new Z engine once....some trash had the float valve stuck open. I sometimes fire up a new engine with open headers....that time I didn’t....lucky, it dumped quite a bit of gas into the air cleaner and onto the floor. I always hook up all exhaust before firing up now. BTW....I do remember that I built the engine with an L18 block and crank. L18 cranks are fully counter balanced...not so the L16’s....plus they are bigger It was a fun little car....one of those you wish you hadn’t sold.

I restored this 72 510 back in the 80’s. I was able to purchase the SSS Head, manifold and carbs from my local dealer. I never noticed any special markings on the carbs. I just assumed they would be the same carbs as the 1600’s or 240Z with different jets maybe. The head was what was special.

Backup lights maybe?

I think this may help.

Good decision moelk. I think Z’s look great with the rear spoiler. I’ll post my silver car when it’s installed.

Andreas... It’s in the body shop for a new rear spoiler. Should be out soon....then to my friend’s dyno....I’m anxious to see what it does. Will post as soon as I have the numbers...will video the run. Guy

Very happy......still running SU’s. The engine is a torque monster!

Had to do it again......gonna build another Stroker for the green 72. Will start after the first of the year.....it’ll be a 3.0.

I always look forward to your projects Hardway.....hope you come to Atlanta next year!

Great toys and a great history with your toys Jerry. May we all never grow up!!!

No Cliff....shaved .080, but the valves are .080 taller, so when you shim up the towers and springs, everything comes up as stock.

Eiji built my head with a Schneider .495 lift cam....he used .220 lash pads....centered perfect. .160’s should be about right for a .460 Cam. Trial and error, since the valve stem height can be different on machined heads depending on how much the seats are ground. Try the .190’s......might work. German240....I like the permanent green dye idea......

.......and not a foot pound more. Also, since they are threaded into aluminum, try not to take in and out more than is absolutely necessary or you’ll pull the aluminum threads (requiring installation of threaded inserts).

Couldn't agree with you more Capt. .........This looks like a $15,000.00 car to me.....dream on Motorcarclassics.

Fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Remove dust cap from bleed screw.....slide tube onto bleed screw and up into reservoir. Open bleed screw and get helper to slower push in clutch pedal until no bubbles. Lock bleed screw.

Yes, but the Datsun gods didn't make em that way, so it just bugged me. Wasn't functional either. Mike....I never slept in mine, but many, many times, there was a third passenger riding in the cargo area......but then again, when you are 21, you are immortal! Site....You are right....added to my first garage, but the County wouldn't let me build the third addition......probably better....can't drive what I've got, and wouldn't want an empty garage!

Old picture Cliff......there’s 2 Z’s under those blocks now.

Got Chuck to remove the passenger side mirror from my white 70........it’s always bugged me!

Nice!

A modified shifter will solve the problem.....

Great choice.....right Jim Arnett?

Not true.....5 years later....still perfect....oil and gas have had no effect......just wipe off.

If you look inside your valve cover, you can answer your contamination issue.....yes it will contaminate your valve cover. VHT is a high temp paint, although the valve cover doesn’t get that hot, I still prefer a higher temp tolerant paint. I use aluminum color.

Here’s three that I did that way.....