billcapp

Well I bought one from Victoria's Secret... ???VB actually, and was not impressed. It came in warped and the cutouts didn't line up with the dash guages very well. I had to enlarge the cut-outs am and still pondering the warp at the two center console legs that pass by the radio. I'm afraid to try heat and ruin it further. :disappoin

hOW ABOUT SOME PHOTOS WHEN YOU CAN?

Datsun76: Which make is your dam and where did you get it? Is the "faux" bumper reinforced in the back (ie does it give any protection in a small bump?) and does it just bolt on to the bumper brackets?

Hey kmack Nice looking plate!

check your ballast resistor

It should work just fine.

First thing I would do is to look under the dash to the left of the blower motor on the passenger side. There the valve controlling the heat resides. Make sure the valve lever moves as you move the control. Sometimes the wire inside the control cable will loosen in its captive holder located in front of the valve or in the locking screw barrel at the valve. If these instructions aren't clear ask again

One thing to not overlook, is the valve next to the heater core. Make sure it doesn't leak either (check the carpet for a wet spot). If it does leak it may draw in air as the coolant cools down, making it appear the coolant level at the radiator is still normal. The air will have a tendancy to block the water flow also. Do use the 160 thermostat if you are in NC. Hope this info is useful.

I think the one I saw on the back of a pickup was the best ever... "Mustache Rides..5 cents"

That really is a good question! I've often wondered myself how long is a reasonable time for a primed car to sit before painting. You are right the primer will soak up moisture if left for too long. I imagine where you live plays a big part in this also. Humidity, as in Florida, is a major problem even if the car is in a garage. And if you live in a dry climate and keep it in a garage I imagine you have plenty of time before protection is required. If anyone has an answer I'd like to know. Is there a primer/ sealer that would work? I think I saw this somewhere on this site before.

I plan on replacing the shovel handle I now use to hold up my hatch soon.. when I do get one from them I'll give you a report on it and if you don't find another source, I'd be happy to acquire one for you and ship it. Bill:bunny:

See the following from the Autozone website: MIGHTY-LIFT HATCH/HOOD/TRUNK LIFT SUPPORT for a 1971 NISSAN/DATSUN 240Z Unit Price: $34.99 Core Value*: $0.00 Part No.: B95704 Weight: 1.25 lbs. Warranty: LLT Availability: Online: Ships within 2 business days Store: Special Order :classic:

A car parts supplier here in the US (AutoZone) claims to have the part. You may try to get info and/or order online at autozone.com. This will fit all ZEDs that use only one support strut. Good luck..............:nervous:

Brings back fond? memories.....

HAte to be the one, but your image doesn't work.

Hey Okie, I feel for you. Good that is! I wish you the best in your new endevour. I'm sure you will do well. I wish I could do the same...I'm tired of the timeclock myself. Have lots of talents but not one heart throbbing desire to do the same thing all day long. Still...good luck!

So you need some help? I purchased a washer pump from my local AutoZone store. It was the exact replacement part and was very inexpensive (forget how much - but under$10). Check this site for parts for sale first. Hubcaps are available; depending on the quality you want the price will vary quite a bit. I will soon be posting all my unused parts for sale on this site when I get an inventory of them i.e. I have the original wheels and hubcaps along with a CA smog air pump, original steel fan and clutch, stock exhaust manifold as well as other parts. I did find that AutoZone carries quite a few replacement parts. I have purchased a starter, thermostat, washer, brake master, vacuum booster and other parts. They claim they have the replacement rear hatch strut also...which is hard to come by for the single hatch strut for the 70-73 or 74. Hope this helps also.

Watch this guy from Washington... , he may steer you wrong! NOT!!!! Escanlon has always been right on target. DO check out the fuse box first for corrosion. If you want to pull the fuse box it is a simple chore (one screw) just make sure the battery is disconnected. If the fuse box checks out the next most likely culprit would be the switch stick. That is another whole ballgame to tackle if you intend to disassemble it. If you are quite mechannically competent (ie. take things apart just to see how they work--and can put it back together in working order) then it isn't all that big a deal. I've taken mine apart down to the ball bearings in the switch (don't ask) to try to fix my running lights. The plastic piece inside was broke and not really repairable so I"ll be looking for a replacement. Good luck with your task and check back often if you need further assistance. This group is the BEST for help!!!

Enjoyed the video but I think the driver was being just a bit reckless in lane changing without signaling.

Zlishous, Great looking 240. Engine swap looks to be a really neat job. As for the 260..honestly I never cared for them as much...less power and more weight, but I'm sure it's OK for a DD.:tapemouth

How much did the paint job soak you and did you do it in totale (meaning did you strip it all inside and out with all interior removed or what).