geezer

"his diplomatic plates had fallen off the car" Now there's an excuse I never heard before. Can't remember which South American country it was, but if you were married and convicted of impaired driving, your wife shared the jail cell with you for the duration of the sentence.

If you find the tach is defective, give me a shout. I have one available for the cost of shipping, or free pickup, just down the road in Windsor. Good Luck!

I scrolled to the bottom of this page to "Similar Threads" and found what I think you are looking for. Here's a link to the specific post. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=210766&postcount=8

Yes, the base is a bit wider on the newer one as well as overall being a touch taller. A real lathe would be much better to use, as I did have a bit of offset wobble going on. That's why I didn't try to shape it any further.

Thanks guys. More shaping could have been done to get it closer but the translucent lettering gives it away anyhow. The before pics would be in post #4.

Well, I figured I would attempt to duplicate the early knob profile, by turning down my superceeded replacement knob. First pic is my 3/8'' Dewalt drill clamped in the vise with the knob threaded onto a bolt that I cut the head off (poor man lathe). It took about a half hour to bring it down to shape, using a file, then graduated grits of sandpaper. I tried some ebony stain on it but the walnut grain doesn't accept it too easily. I sprayed a single coat of clear quick drying poly, then buffed it. Still not an early one, but better than it was and good enough for my Z. It wouldn't be too difficult to bring one of the new version 4 speed knobs down to size either.

I agree! I am in awe of the absolutely beautiful examples displayed in this thread. Thanks for sharing the pictures!

I don't think it is that difficult to find a Type A 5 speed. I come across a few every year. It's the shipping costs and replacement parts that nix the idea for me. Not economically feasible or practical today when there are viable alternatives for a lot less. I envy Goose, who made some nice upgrades early on. Arne, you could start sweet talking Mike. That looks like a nice early 5 speed knob he has. Either that or he is getting pretty good with the new camera. Poor dntpunchgrandpa is missing the feeding frenzy! Seriously though, the tip from lonetreesteve is a good one. MJP-Eastern Auto is operated by Mike Feeney in the UK. He is the guy to talk to. He is a member of Zclub.net (user name - Mr.F) and very good at finding parts. E-mail: mike@mjpauto.com

Wow! That is just too cool! Wanna swap that old worn out 5 speed shift knob for a shiny new one? If you ever need a hand to clean out that garage...:classic:

I bought one before they became unavailable. The original 5 speed shift knob was part number C2865-E4100. I am curious myself about the physical dimensions of this original 5 speed knob. I have never seen one compared to the superceeded replacement as shown in the pics, which is much larger and also has a different look on the lettering and circles. The color is not what I expected either. I was kind of bummed and even considered having it chucked in a lathe and turned down, but thought better of that, since I did lay out a tidy sum for it. So far, I just keep it for the purpose of conversation. Here it is next to a 4 speed knob for comparison.

In the microfiche part number 63223-E4102 rubber cushion Qty. 2 is shown, same as Keith found, but nothing else. The raised bracket itself is not shown in the illustration either. In his book, Wick Humble even comments on the varying under fender supports used over the S30's 9 years of production. I have looked for example pics of the originals, but didn't find any intact. Dan, your car, like mine, should only have the one raised bracket under each fender, that this rubber is applied to, as in the pic below. The rubber seems to have disintegrated over time to the point of just being gone. My car had two strips of common household weatherstrip that would be available at any hardware store in its place under the front fenders. I can understand your preference of duplicating the original, but in this case the original didn't pass the test of time. The suggestions of using a compressable, closed cell foam, cut to fit are the best option in my opinion. I am at a loss identifying the other rubber you describe under the cowl screen. I have only seen the large, flat, white, foam rubber like sheets that are glued to the underside of the cowl screen itself.

I hope that CD provides you with their interpretation of the results as well as an explanation of the abrupt voting surges that occurred. I don't want to come off as being unsupportive on this issue but the way it came down is not that surprising to me. The earlier suggestion that an appeal for votes was posted on the Stang sites makes perfect sense. I know the popularity of the Mustang vs any or all Datsun's is a mismatch at best and a few well placed posts may very have caused these results. We have a local Mustangs only meet in my locale that results in a gathering of about a thousand Mustangs. Compared to the mere handfull of Datsun enthusiasts in the area, it is overwhelming. I think an online proportional count would reflect the same. Regardless, you can be assured there are many of us that appreciate and love the Blue Oval Z!

I agree with this statement. An accumulation of 4 years of improved product design and advanced manufacturing methods did increase the level of creature comfort and at the same time, kept pace with mandated safety and emission standards. But for me, the shear bare bones simplicity of the earlier cars hold a certain facination. Not to say I don't love them all. Just differently. To each their own, they are what they are or what you make of them.

I've got 4 votes put in 4 days so far.

I think you made a good choice with that magnaflow Arne. I just bought the #11378 dual in/dual out for my twice pipe system at a pretty good price from Hottexhaust.com. Free delivery too. I did look up the #11148 on their site and found it listed incorrectly. I think they have the wrong illustration but the rest of the info is correct, but not sure if it is constructed of aluminized steel or matt finish stainless. It would be worthwhile comparing their price. If you could get a few others interested, they will even entertain price offers. http://www.hottexhaust.com/

LOLNext

Found it in the microfiche. Part # 21495-P9000 Duct Assy- Air Intake -Turbo from 12/80 #31

Nah, that's the elusive spinctoid frabmoister hose (spelling?). Best I can do without a clue. If you have only ever seen two of them chances are, I'll never see one.

For 1972 zhome doesn't list Blue/Black or White/Blue. http://www.zhome.com/History/colors.html

Good catch Adam. I never noticed that until now. That color chart was a bad choice I guess. It was taken from TS71-47, which was the Introduction of the 1972 HLS30. It was issued Oct 6 1971 and obviously subject to change or a mistake. More interesting data from Zhome: 1972 - 114 Brown Metallic 1973 - 114 Brown Metallic Note B: 1973 FMVSS required Flame Retardent Material for interior vinyls (#114 aka: CoCo Brown) Scroll down the page under the heading of Added/Changed for 72/73 Model Year Cars. 114 Bronze Metallic (from 9/71) (aka: CoCo/Dark Brown Under the heading of 260Z/280Z Colors the number changes to 214 Dark Brown (from 8/73- 7/76)

zclocks is his user name.

Have you tried a PM from this site?

Wet sanding is the method I would use, especially on fresh paint. Sometimes it can be very difficult to sand out a run in fresh paint without it "digging out". Use at least as fine as a 600 grit, use a small rubber block or at least keep good control of the paper, keeping it flat with light pressure. Don't continue to use clogged or dull paper. I know nothing about the paint you used or the "blendability" of spot repairs using it. Experiment with it in an inconspicuous spot. Make sure the paint has cured enough before doing anything. If you have enough to do a complete repaint, you can lightly wet sand the entire bay and respray it, eliminating any blending concerns. Or, it could be that a repaint of the entire engine bay is unnessesary and you can take advantage of character lines, seams or other natural breaks, making it easy to blend in. Underhood color matching should be much less of a problem.

I found the underbody treatment to be the same as typically found on most vehicles of this era. It wasn't until the late '70s that E-coat systems came into widespread use. With an E-coat process, the vehicle would be submerged or partially submerged into the coating and the positively charged current would force coverage inside and out, including any voids or unseen areas. As Chris noted, these cars "show no evidence of paint inside the constructed body sections". I have taken an interest in the processes used in the production of these cars. I have noted the need to transfer the shells from the metal line carts/carriers to the carts used specifically in the paint shop. This was the opportune time for the coating to be applied, after being lifted off the metal shop cart, but before being set down on the cart that would travel through paint. Separate carts had to be used for many reasons, contamination prevention of the paint being the foremost concern. Even the wheel grease used on a cart could be ruinous to the paint finish when exposed & dispersed by the high temp ovens. It does appear to be different than the exterior finish paint. When I was stripping this material off the bottom of my car I asked myself several times, "why take it all off?" It was still well adhered and still protecting the surface. My cars color being silver, had a distinct metalic finish but not so on the underbody. Another thing that is a mystery to me is the composition of the undercoat & paint. I have not been able to determine if what appears to be a heavier black base coat under the silver paint is actually the same coat. Many paint formulations had the characteristic of the color rising to the surface after being sprayed, not like an acrylic that would be color consistant throughout the thickness of the layer. I just couldn't find any evidence of the heavy black undercoat and the silver top coat being sprayed seperately. Here's a pic of the original coating I found while cleaning off the years of accumulated crud under my Z. This second pic shows the rear valance reinforcing strip that is void of paint on every S30, that Chris mentioned. I originally thought that was caused by the grounding clamp being attached at this point while in the paint system. I now think it was simply from the placement of a temporary upright support, used to hold the rear hatch open during the painting process.