geezer

Bruce, Could you PM me the dealer info. as well? I can’t say I have specifically went out of my way to find which paint supplier carries Zero Rust locally, if any, but I haven’t noticed it. I have been using POR 15 for many years now, because of the effectiveness of the product even if it does have it’s downsides. The need to overcoat if exposed to sunlight being one, the high cost two, short shelf life once opened and as you agree, the dangers of Isocyanates. This is why I was impressed with the results reported by those using SEM Rust Shield. A company who's products I have used. Sounds like this product all but eliminates the downsides associated with POR 15. I have been told that epoxy primers bond well to Rust Shield also. I would like to hear more about that. If Zero Rust has the same characteristics and basically the same formulation, I am just as willing to try it and will look into it. Thanks for pointing out the “knock off” status of Rust Shield and I hope you didn’t take exception with the hazard warnings in my last post. Please don't think of your posts becoming self serving. We all want to know the truth.

Why ask for trouble?? If the seller can't tell you anything about them, steer clear. It's a crap shoot at best. It looks like there is a label on one. I have a set of Suspension Techniques springs that look similar and have a similar label on them, but that is really grasping at straws. What are the part numbers on the Tokico blues?

Just a follow up note of caution when using these products. I am in the habit of reading the material safety data sheets whenever I use a product that is new to me. It is not only a safety precaution but also beneficial to understanding a products performance and what to expect from it. Make no mistake, both POR 15 and SEM Rust Shield have dangerous elements in their makeup. POR 15 is petroleum based with isocyanates and SEM Rust Shield is an alkyd, which is a polyester resin coating which relies on toluene and xylene. This is real skull & crossbone stuff and the utmost care should be taken in the use and storage of these products. Just thought I would throw this out there so it's in the back of your mind the next time you use one of these products.

That's them. The per unit cost was $6.80 a few years ago for new ones when I got this set.

It's good to be Mike!! Very nice indeed. It looks to be a well maintained vehicle and is the perfect center piece for your growing collection. Congratulations!!

I have heard good reviews from others that have tried SEM Rust Shield also. I am curious if it holds up as well as POR 15 over time, but it did hold up to the 1000 hour salt spray test, so it must be good. The recommended prep work is much the same as for POR 15. Many have had problems with POR 15 lifting and that is a result of flawed prep work I would think , but not sure because it hasn't happened to me. What I am going to say now, some may find shocking but the only pep work I have ever done before applying POR 15 (sprayed or brushed) is a good wipe down with an acetone soaked rag and quick follow up with a dry clean cloth before it evaporates. Of course this is always on a degreased & freshly sand blasted surface. Never had any problems of any kind and after many years the POR 15 is still intact and doing its job. It will get a milky discoloration from sunlight if not covered. This is where the SEM Rust Shield is appealing. I would like more information of the claims of epoxy primers ability to readily bond to it also. It does sound like a good product and if it can be applied as I have described without the use of phosphoric acids and follow up cleaning it passes my test.

Dang, that was a good one, that caught me off guard not even 5 minutes after getting totally sucked into another one here at home. Just stamp A$$ on my forehead too!ROFLROFLROFL

That seems to be the concensus, mine is the oddity. I completely overlooked the last sentence in that TSB also. If anything, I have learned something new. If these labels were dealer applied and they entered the key codes there is likeky a lot more variances than if it was done at the factory.

If they are unused Tokico lowering springs for a 240Z they should be identifiable by the number clearly printed on them. Only the fronts are progressive. Do a search. We discussed this before and determined care had to be taken when buying these because Tokico had used the same part numbers for different springs.

Arne, The only purpose for posting the 3 page TSB was to show the explanation of VH & FH. Really doesn't apply to Dan's car or mine because we both have 2 sided ignition keys. Hmmn...All this time I thought the key code label belonged on the glove box ceiling. That's where mine is and it looks like it always has been. I did not know the key code label was dealer applied either. I have never thought to look for this label on other Series 1 cars. I would be interested to see where this label is located on other Series 1 cars with two sided ignition keys. I don't have the proper Owner's Manual for my 10/70 but I have one dated 15th November 1970. Just as a note of interest the first illustration comes from page 4 and is a matching rendition of the keys that came with my car, as far as I know. The second illustration from page 8 shows a two sided key for the door locks, tail gate lock and glove box lock. It seems to add to the late Series 1 key transition theory.

Dan, I don't want to leave any stone unturned and have to point this out, just in case you overlooked it. This is the second time you have mentioned the glove box door when referring to the lock code label. It should be pasted on the inside roof of the glovebox itself, just behind the latch and not the glove box door. I just want to make sure you know that and simply haven't looked up there and have missed it.

"My car, being right at the end of series 1 production, may have been caught in the transition with a series two ignition key and series 1 doors key". Dan This is what I believe to be the case. They had to make use of these surplus parts before going to a single key system. You being the original owner, have the knowledge of what has been done to your car. I have been doing some reverse engineering in my head trying to sort out what changes were made to mine. The ignition was original but extreemly worn out. The door locks were replaced with double sided but the originals were included in a box of parts, not worth saving because the stainless was run over with a sander and damaged. So I decided to go to a single key works all, for convenience sake only. What happened to your original key code label in your glovebox Dan? Z train - The only place I see them turn up is on Ebay. You could try checking some long time established hardware stores, auto suppliers and locksmiths but will probably find only generic blanks, not NOS.

Mike, the 3/71 parts car with the two sided key that works all the locks interests me. Is this code recorded on a glovebox decal? Is the 4 digit code preceeded by the letter M? Here is why I am asking. My 10/70 also has two, two sided keys like Dan's. We need more input from other Series 1 owners but here is my theory so far. We know the jumbled nature of cars coming off the assembly line early on. I believe the identification numbers were stamped on the cowl stampings before frame up but this is in no way any indication of the order of the cars moving through the system or of order of completion. This would explain why my car which numerically falls in between Arne & Jim's cars is not keyed the same but is keyed like Dan's. It seems logical to me that Dan's key code decal should mimic mine, but again it would be nice to get more Series 1 input. Could the letter M preceeding the later key codes represent "master" meaning one key works everything? Interesting subject.

Sorry guys. This is very difficult to get a picture of, for me anyway. This is the best I can come up with, but should give you a better idea of what it looks like. There is only the one 4 digit number. I would be interested to know why it is different than Arne's which is also from a 10/70 and Jim's which is a 7/70 build. Mine falls in between those. Maybe a different MO from shift to shift?

Here is the TSB issued October 15, 1970. It explains the meanings of VH & FH. I will get a pic up of my label when the good camera is here later on.

I tried to get a pic of mine but it didn't come out clear enough to see the numbers, but this is what it looks like. There is only one 4 digit number that is hand written. It takes up all the space on both lines that start with VH- & FH- because it is written twice as tall. There is nothing on the KEY NO. line and nothing on the ENG/DOOR- line. I can safely tell you the number (1222) as I have changed it out. I can try to get a better pic if you still need it in the daylight with a different camera tomorrow.

The only thing I would do is round off the corners of the stripes and end them half way down the spook, but then you would have to do the same in the rear. Decisions...decisions:ermm:

Is this the closest without going over? I say $15,449.99 I did that wrong..lost already:ermm:

Wasn't there a bid on this car already? The seller ended the auction because of an error in the listing.

Hey Scott, good question. I have some factory manuals for '81,'82,'83 but nothing else to compare them to. Nor do I really have a need, as my car is a '70 and I do have other manuals other than the FSM for 1970. Some of the illustrations are very good in the alternate manuals such as Haynes or Chiltons. Everyone has their own preferences. I don't think it is possible to have too much information on hand. That is one of the benefits of the search feature of this site also. If one manual doesn't answer your question, maybe another will. As far as specialty tools, there is usually a way around using most of them. Heck, the techs at the dealerships have always done their share of improvising special tooling too. I am amazed at the special tool listings for rear differentials though.

Ha Ha Good one! Around here the Leafs fans are always outnumbered by the Red Wings fans, but most Leaf fans are lifers and will stay loyal to the bitter end.

Welcome Michael! It sounds like an interesting project that you are sure to have fun with. We like nothing more than to follow along with the progress of the members projects. If you scroll to the top of the page you will see a relatively new feature added to the site, under the heading of Blogs. It looks to be the easiest way for you to maintain a log of your progress. Great group of people here with an immense knowledge base that can be accessed through the search feature. If a question comes up, chances are it's been answered before and a quick search will be helpful. Great to have you aboard!

The site seems to be back to normal. You don't realize how much you miss something till it's gone.

A quick search will find this has been covered many times. Here's a link that should help. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26392&highlight=brake+drum This may be a better illustration.