geezer

Professional installation or not, your glass guy just has not been exposed to the right tool for this particular job or been shown how to use it. I have seen the wide array of tools out there for performing this task and I would agree with him that most are not very effective. Most are designed as being "multipurpose" for use on different vehicles. He also has to use the methods and tools in his arsenal on a variety of vehicles. He does the best he can with what he has and is like most of us; sticks with what works. Nothing wrong with that. That does not mean it is the only way or the best way. Take a lesson from the real experts who designed & built our cars. They used a tool similar to what I have shown and used the same method I described. I could expand a great deal on this subject if it was relevent to the thread but only felt the need to point this out.

It's not worth the risk of breaking the glass, trying to save the windshield seal. Even if you did manage to seperate the trim, seal & glass without damage ocurring, reassembly is much more difficult. I agree with the above posts, cut the lip overlapping the trim. A little lubrication such as varsol or isopar will help in removal also. Katcar, there are specialty tools designed for putting the trim back on. There are also two different methods of doing this. Some prefer to subassemble the trim to the windshield seal before installing the assembly on the car. Others, like me prefer to install the seal on the glass, install on the car, then install the trim. No matter which method you use, the secret of success lies in the flexability of the rubber seal. The more flexible it is, the less risk of putting undue stress on the glass. Glass is very unpredictable, so it is important to minimize the risk, by using a new seal, heating it to the proper temperature and using the proper tools for the type of installation. Some people install the mouldings at a later date, when the seal has cooled, which makes the rubber less pliable. It can be done, but it is much easier to do the complete installation all at once, while the rubber is still hot. You will see different recommendations for an installation lubricant. Just make sure to use one that will not harm your paint or trim and is easily cleaned up. Here is a pic of a tool I made from a paint can opener to replace my specialty trim installation tool. It is the tool on the left from the windshield installation tools. The other pic is what it looked like in it's former life as a paint can opener. You can find these at many paint store and it takes about 5 minutes to fashion into a trim installation tool. To use it, insert into the trim channel with the trim strip inserted into the tool. The tool holds the lips open as you press the trim strip into the channel at the same time as you draw the tool along the length. Join the trim pieces as you go. The red Miller specialty tool in the pic is ideal for placing the smaller end/corner pieces. Or you can buy a specialty tool for doing this.

I found this explanation of "ET". "Offset is usually stamped or engraved into the wheel and is measured in millimetres of 'ET' [ET is the short form of the German word 'Einpresstiefe' which literally translates as 'insertion depth'] Positive Offset wheels have their mounting face toward the front face of the wheel. Most front wheel drive vehicles have positive ET wheels. Eighties and Nineties Volkswagen wheels are usually ET38. Zero Offset wheels have their mounting face even with the centerline of the wheel and are by definition "ET 0". Negative Offset wheels have their mounting face toward the rear of the wheel - powerful rear-wheel drive cars often have wheels with negative offset".

There are a few recent threads concerning this piece. This is a topic that comes up frequently. I think if I needed one I would be organizing a group buy and have several shipped from the source in Australia. They are stackable and the shipping cost could be trimmed substantially. Just a thought. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33228

I have come across a few early throttle assemblies with the rounded knobs, but was never willing to pay what the sellers believe they are worth. I have given up on the search for one, because my Z started life without one and it is unlikely I will ever own an early Z that did come with one but has it missing. There have been a few early throttle assemblies on Ebay in the past year or so, with one going at a very reasonable price. I was watching it, but did not bid. You are right about people sitting on these in their stash and not willing to part with them. They are just like the other hard to find parts, if you are patient, one will turn up sooner or later. I think this thread may put you in touch with a few leads. Good Luck

Ah ha! The light just went on in my head too! I have trouble tying the cars to the owners. I loved the babyblue 2+2 and your white '70 with the blue interior. We spoke at the show about your Jim Cook hood and the one I have just like it. Congrats on the win and good luck this year!

Steve - I now realize how difficult it is to come up with the proper part numbers for these rubber parts. I started by leafing through the US/Canada Parts Catalog. It is very sparse, as far as information on what you are looking for. These are the only firewall parts I found: -18453-E8700 Grommet-Rubber (throttle cable) 1 pc. -18218-E4101 Accelerator Rod 1 pc. -27243-28500 Grommet-Rubber (heater hoses) 2 pcs. I then moved to my micofiche reader to find what the catalog is missing. It has more detail. Before I really got started the bulb burnt out and put the brakes on that attempt. Just thought I would let you know I haven't forgot and am trying to help. There must be others who can provide some of the part numbers for these rubber pieces. This is an area where a search on this site doesn't help locate these part numbers either. There might be several mentioned in old posts, but try to find them. PS - I guess it doesn't help the search function, if no mention of "part numbers" is in the thread title. Maybe a new thread titled, "hard to find part numbers", should be started.

To me, they look like the work of a safety conscious individual, maybe someone who made frequent stops on the side of the road. Who knows? Anyways, they are something that make your Z unique. Unless you are a stickler for originality, I'd keep them. :bulb:Get yourself a paper route.:bulb: PS - Maybe I should explain that...We have an elderly gent here who delivers papers here early in the morning. He drives on the wrong side of the road with his door open, throwing the newspapers in the driveways.

Here's what I found. Up to 7/73 - PN 26420-E4100 - optional in Japanese home market They changed after 7/73 and not sure but is that both versions depicted in this illustration? Couldn't find the pic Kats posted though.

THANKS Will! Seems I'm missing an NOS console too!

For some reason these pictures are not being displayed. I'm only getting red Xs.

Yes, seems like quite a few fairly easy fixes on that list. Congrats on a great showing!

Looks great Fred! Sure does add a little luster to the cluster. I have one just like it, yet to be serviced and missing the knob, but working. I haven't tried to find a knob yet.

Not to take you guys away from the troubleshooting, but the wire color confusion made me think of this. Because my eyes are not so good anymore I bought one of those oversized color wire diagrams. It was worth it just for the laugh I got when I seen the wire color legend.

Zak and I were both confused at first about that. I believe 240znz is refering to the original HLS30 door panels in general and not a pic. PS - Gee, I just saw your post Arne...now I've gotta dig out some panels and have a look................Yep, just looked and my two original sets have the courtesy light openings stamped out on the corners also.

I think Nissan is now making one set of panels that will adapt to all markets. The courtesy lights would be a nice feature to have for some, but my Z is being kept "bare bones" as far as niceties go. PS - I'm still trying to see which "previous pic" didn't have the cutout. (OK, I got it...you mean the original HLS30 panels?)

Kind of thick to scan but here it is.

Yes, the different variations of the same part are listed (01, 02 and so on, just enabling you to tell at a glance exactly how many different part numbers are associated with the same part. As you mention. it could be side specific, or a variety of different other reasons for a seperate part number, color being the one that comes to mind right now. If you need any specific help looking up the proper part number, just give us the part name or description and the cars date of manufacter so we can help.

The "KEY NO" will correspond with the number in the illustration. There can be several part numbers listed under this "KEY NO" all having a similar description. The color may differ or some other feature may be varied so a seperate part number is needed. There is a "QTY" (quantity number) which tells you how many pieces the vehicle requires. The next column "UNIT PKG" just specifies how many pieces are shipped to the dealer in a package (which they will seperate and sell seperately). The "Applied" Model is self explanitory (example..Automatic or Manual) and the "APPLIED DATES" may have enties in the "FROM" or "UP TO" columns letting you know if the part was called for in a particular vehicle according to the Date of Manufacture. If the part was replaced with another part to take it's place, because of a design change or a change in supplier, it will be given a new part number. The former part number will appear in the "SUPERCEEDED" column. If this doesn't explain it clearly enough, I can try to scan the "How to interpret the text" page in my parts catalog.

It looks like someone would rather rummage through an old nuts & bolts bin, then make a run to the store. I know people like this, who will take all the time in the world in order to save a buck. Do you suppose the fuse box is the work of the same guy? Probably seemed like a good idea at the time. The worst I have seen, pertains more to metal repair & body work. I've seen everything from coke cans to old licence plates used to fill holes. I wish I would have taken a pic before I removed the "metal repair" that was done in this pic. It was priceless. Nice frame repair too.

For a street driven car I really liked this fiberglass 1 piece that retains the turn signal openings. I was considering glassing my spook to it, in order to create a 1 piece rigid assembly, but when this was on Ebay recently, I didn't bid high enough. It sold for $220.00 I believe.

I spotted a pair of the end pieces in a pile of parts in my storage garage, but I'm not sure if the center piece is there somewhere also. I'll have a look this weekend. They are used, painted black with gold pinstripping (Very Rare!!). They are not rusted out or bent but would need prep & paint. I'll gather them up and send you pics if your interested, just PM me an email address.

Doesn't surprise me. It could have been a mistake listing them with no reserve though, now that the word is out they will be available again in May at the dealership without paying a shipping charge. They won't be bought by anyone reading this thread.

Marty, it might be worthwhile asking that question on HybridZ, In the most recent post by poortecher, he says he works for a Nissan dealership and that there are 8 other numbers per side that he is going to look up. He didn't report back yet though. Maybe PM him. At least he could supply you with the part numbers you would need to order from Nissan Canada. Go to the link I left in post #4.