59ghia

Hmmmm ........ Carbon fibre I really like the sound of that! I think TAP plastics here in San Francisco sells it by the roll, just add hardner. I would think you work it like fiberglass. Sounds like a great winter project, go to an auto wreckers, pick up a cracked dash and see what comes of it!

Thanks guys, I did see kats repair, I'll drop him a pm and see what he says. Since this is my daily driver I'm not going/ willing to drop that much money on it, heck, 800 bucks otta by a cam! As I voted in the go or show poll, I'd rather GO:D ! Thanks again!

Hello fellow Zers' My perfect dash is developing a crack! It's about an 1/8 inch. I've been keeping a white towel over it since I got it. Does or has anybody tried to repair one of these? I remember years ago they used to advertise on t.v a vinyl repair kit but I have yet to see one. I really want to take care of this ASAP. Any help would be appreciated. Dave

I had this same problem, car would die, I'd look under the hood for something wrong, and it would start again. If it dies like right now, It's most likely electrical, dies slowly, fuel related. Next time it dies, leave the key on, pop the distributor cap, use a screwdiver and open and close the points, no spark, think coil or condensor or wiring. Good luck

I e-mailed this guy, the bigest venturi he has is 31mm. I think you may want a bit bigger then that? Possible 36mm? If anybody is running these please correct me. I was thinking of them pretty seriously, My 2.4 with a mild cam, fresh springs and a mild port job, might be a sweet set-up. Then I started looking into a cam, fresh lashcaps etc. and your in for $500, then the carbs, intake, linkege, air horns filters, fuel rail I'm smelling 1k already. Think I'll keep it stock for awile! Besides one hot rod is enough, I think!

Dude, youve got some serious rust goin there. It may be easier to get a new shell. I've seen some rust free rigs at the junk yards, I wonder if they would sell you one? Best of luck! Dave

Since you'll be pulling the intake/exhaust , and you mentioned heavy crud, I'd pull a couple of freeze plugs and have a look inside. Good luck, Dave

Hello fello Zers I think my headgasket is on its way out. Or possibly warped or cracked head. Heres the scenario.... Start car in morning, no problem. Engine reaches operating temp no problem. Stop engine to get something from the store lets say 10 minutes. Start car, idles rough, and 10 sec. later I'm a stanley steamer! Were talk'in locomotive type steam out tailpipe! This lasts about 2 min, while its steamin' the idle has smoothed out. after the two minutes of steamin' all is well again. WTF! Here's some more to ponder. If upon getting to the store, I release the pressure in the cooling system, when I start the car after the 10 min in the store scenario, the car does not smoke, and idle is smooth! Question 1) am I running to high of pressure in cooling system? I'll be pulling the head this weekend to check it out but thought I would throw my situation out there and see if anybody could tell me something I'm missing. Thanks Dave

Dropped about an inch, they stiffen up pretty quick which I like. But still smooth on the freeway. Nice spring. Looks like the SHO will get them next!

Suspension rebuild complete!:classic: WOW what a difference!!! Its a 72 and now I "feel" the need for a rear bar. I don't want it to stiff so I'm always oversteering. What are your suggestions? How do the rear aftermarkets mount? From what I see they mount "backwards" She now has Eibach's ,Tokico non's, and poly bushings. I like to drive her hard on the twisties (3rd gear at 60mph) and feel the tail lifting on the inside a bit.

Just received my new poly bushings and there are no outside sleeves. I've read former threads and everybody seems to be cuttin', chislin' the old ones out. So can I assume the poly's don't require an outside sleeve? I have my own press so I'll get them out in one piece. Thanks Dave

Just picked up a set of Tokico's from a place called shox.com, great prices! 250 for a set of four, and the Eibach's were/are 209 my springs are on backorder.www.shox.com They don't post their prices on the web, you need to either call or get a quote.

Sounds like a fuel pump, maybe getting weak. You'll need a fuel pressure guage to check it. Unless someone knows a quick and dirty way.....

How about a bent front or rear stub axle? I have no idea how to test this, maybe jack up one corner at a time, and spin the wheel? Put a dial indicator on outside of rim and spin? Or have a friend drive alongside of you and check the wheels at speed? Using cell phone in this situation helps communicate better. Just some ideas

Had the same problem, ended up using a monster puller. You may be able to rent one. Don't forget to put on a couple of lug nuts because when it pops it pops big time! Good luck! and don't forget after you get it off to clean the seating areas real well and apply some anti-sieze Dave

Phew..... They had me mixed up with my brother!!

I have no idea how long this has been a problem, when the guy gave me the car he said it had been doing this for awile. When I changed the fluid prior to putting the car on the road it came out kinda thick, as in pudding! Well the first few ounces came out like real 80wt, the rest I had to scoop out! I guess I should have assumed at this point I could expect problems. I'll drop the rear end this weekend replace all the bushings and see whats up. If I'm lucky I'll be ok with the side bearings and seals. So you say a slide hammer is all I need to pull these? Is the inner race a press fit on the axle stub? (inboard). Thanks again, Dave

2many, The play is not rotating play, ie if i grab the inboard u-joint and twist, i get movement. But when i grab that same inboard u-joint and move up and down, or horizontally I get movement. Does that make sense? If i move it up the gap on top gets smaller and the gap down low gets larger. I will definatly go-ahead and pull that rear inspection plate and investigate deeper. Thanks for the input! Dave

I have a clunk, Its coming from the diff where the axle bolts to the diff itself. If I grab the axle theres alot of play where it goes into the diff. I was looking thru my VB catalog and noticed they sell a diff bearing race and seals. I believe these are the culprit. Is this bearing race a complete bearing? Has anybody replaced these? Any tips or tricks to doing this? Its not the u-joints. Thanks Dave p.s its a '72 w/r180

Fellow Zers Gotta check out this ride on e-bay! I've been building engines for awile, ok, mostly VW's. So now that I've got a Z thing go'in on I enjoy see'in how others have built their rides. So, is this old school or what! Stock mainfold, and a turbo drawin thru an SU! Sorry no link, couldn't paste it in there Item #1834420797

Try pluging the "good" light into the "bad" socket first. When you ran the 9 volt battery you may have been checking the Hi beam filament.

I'm running the petronix, It's used in place of points and condensor, and all of it fits under distrib cap. Not sure what the MSD's purpose in life is, but the petronix alone, with a high voltage coil, should be enough. Hope this helps.......

Sounds like Nissan had a factory 180 lsd. What year cars had them? Thanx Dave

Hello fellow Zers, My front carb throttle shaft seems to be hanging up. I've disassembled and cleaned all the pivot points but the problem is still there. What kind of grease do you use? I've used a lithium based grease. Is there a way to lube throttle shafts without complete disassembly? These are on my 72 with round top su's. I've checked for vacuum leaks using Berrymans carb cleaner and none were detected. The throtlle shaft is snug with little or no play in them. If i blip the throttle in goes to normal idle speed, from around 1200 rpm. I know its the front because I can push down where the spring goes and it moves down. I tried swapping springs nothing. Any ideas? Thanx Dave

Just a thought, but you may want to check the upper bulb. It may be a two filament bulb, one for brake, on for turn signal. If you terminate the turn signal wire this may solve the problem. Just an idea worth trying before running new wires. Dave