zKars

That's not the stock location of the plug. It usually on the bottom near the back of the tank. For whatever reason, someone put in a new plug in this corner. You're on your own as to the threads. Take it out and go shopping. Yes it should have a sealing washer of some kind.

The Grand is a steal if the work was done right. I'de ask to see receipts for the machine work, especially the balance. If you don't detect any hanky panky while talking with him and your visual inspection of the block looks good (like verifiying the crank is V07) then do it! Jim

One thing to add about the process of changing the angle between the two arms on the throttle pivot. All threads so far discuss cutting the top arm off then re-welding it at the new angle. That's messy For the early gen pivot arm type such as Arne's, there is a far simpler technique. Cut right through the tube part about half way up. Place a drill bit that just fits in the hole to re-assemble the two halves to align them, rotate the top and bottom halves to the new angle (~45 deg verses the original 90ish). Weld and grind until the tube is back to being a seamless tube. The drill bit will keep them aligned so it will slip over the pivot pin on the firewall again. No one will even know you touched it if you do a pretty grinding job. Try telling the story to someone at a car show that Nissan recognized the problem and issued this very rare part with the smaller angle between the arms and you just happen to have that very rare part. See who you can convince its true! Jim

Water. TPS.

Aha! There IS a difference in the "fresh air bellows connector" (good one E) 73 and prior! When I try to fit a 72 on the 73 or the opposite, they don't fit! More careful inspection shows there is a difference, slight though it is. See if you can spot it in the picture. Well, I made it easy. The one on the left is the 73. That inner lip is SHORTER to clear the lit panel top on the HCP. Other than that they are identical. So a 72 duct adapter could be made to fit a 73 HCP by just trimming that lip. Other way around, you'de have to add some material to the lip (duct tape?). Jim

Dave: Good day indeed! I'de really like to see pictures of your parts. I see no difference at all in the 73 and pre-73 outside panel dimensions as it fits in the dash pad and how the vent outlet ducting is sized. But I also know there is always something new to learn. Please send me a note to z240@shaw.ca and we'll take the transaction part offline. Jim

Dave: I can let you have mine for $55 + shipping. I'll throw in the metal vent duct mating piece too. I took the duct piece from a 73 and 72 HCP and held them together. I don't see the difference. Pics attached. They mount the same way, have the same chrome duct, same exact shape that I can tell. Jim

Dave: Here are the pictures of the control assembly I have for the 73.

Yes, the end inside the car, at the tip of the gas pedal, has the end that unscrews, but just pop that end off the tip of the gas pedal and take it off the car, then worry about getting the rod apart to replace the boot. The plastic ball on the ends of the rod fits through the hole in the firewall. Jim

My comment was based on the assumption that the rod and old boot was in his hand already. Now why would you not just pop the ball off of both the pedal and the throttle linkage and take that rod out entirely before you try to undo the nut to separate the rod to put the new boot on? Bad enough having to be under the dash, let alone try to get that 7mm nut undone! That way when you put it all back together, you can make sure you get it back to the same length as it started too. I'm just saying!

Here is the one picture I have from the AC install that kinda shows the 73 controls on the back of the faceplace and how it mounts. Hope it helps. The dash opening is identical. Nothing to modify there. I can take more pics of the parts when I get home. Drop me a note to z240@shaw.ca Jim

Look closely at the rod again. You will soon see how it comes apart. Threads, a little 7mm nut, no rocket science here. give it a good scrubbing, maybe the threads are hiding..

Surprise! Fits the console opening, does not fit the 72 control levers plate. I have my old control levers from my 73 after going Vintage air and replacing all that nonsense. Let me know if you want them. I think the four cables it actuates are all the same. Jim

Nothing special inside. Only thing makes it a turbo pan is the turbo oil return line fitting. Get that AZ pan on the car quick.

Well well another Series I uniqueness. Could be a race part, significant weight savings there. Of far more interest is the what appears to be a strip of door welting on the lip of the rear control arm link. Was that a Series I only item as well? I'm having trouble imagining the purpose. Was it something you installed Gnose?

The good news is they are nearly exactly 1/8" (0.125) diameter. Hobby stores are your friend. Won't find the color you're after, but if black, then a black sharpie is also your friend. I swear I lost 500 of those things in my car before I finally put 8-32 nut- serts in every hole and used machine screws. Jim

Hmmm. I got my Nissan hatch seal off in one piece recently, but it had been replaced 6-7 years ago, and the glue was not factory. Just took patience. I'm very concerned if you could remove original factory glued weatherstrip without riping it to shreds. Give it shot. I'de be using heat to soften for sure.

There was a thread here just recently discussing the common left side hatch twist. It was mentioned to not be related to the hatch strut. While I can also apparently vouch for this, as I have a really nice twist on my 73 that is driving me nuts, and found that removing the strut does not make it go away. When down, the strut applies no force to hatch, at least not upward force. That said, it may be that years of having the hatch propped open on the left, allowing the right side to SAG, has eventually over time twisted the whole thing, resulting in a left side sitting up too high today. I don't remember if anyone mentioned that they have had this issue since the very early life of their cars, which might settle if this may be or contribute to the cause. Ah! Did they also discuss if dual strutted 280's have this issue? If so, then its definitely not strut related. time to find that thread and re-read All that really sticks in my mind is the one person who solved it by having his bodyshop beat the left side weatherstrip lip down with a block of wood and a mallet I believe until it did fit. Ouch!!! Jim

Can't remember the details of doing it posted here before, it has been discussed. I would bet your hatch has been replaced with a 260/280 hatch to have the two 6mm holes on the pass side. You will have to do two mods to the pass side body. One would be to weld on the L-bracket/tab with the 8mm hole that mounts the stud from the strut brackets you borrowed from the JY car. If you didn't already get it, should go back for it. You would have to drill some spot welds I'm sure, but its do-able. Might be able to do it with rivets, but that bracket takes a fair bit of torque, welding would be better. Then the interior plastic needs the notch cut out to clear that bracket. Sound like a nice afternoon project. Now to hope that the passenger side strut has some "ohmph" left in it. Jim

Well plainly it is fate that you were to have this beast. Congrats and welcome back. It looks pretty darn nice. And as luck should have it, I just picked up a early 74 front bumper in pretty good shape. Maybe its better than yours. It's been raining early 260's out here this spring. I know of a parts car that's in pretty good shape about a mile from me, there is one for sale in Edmonton right now, and then this bumper falls in my lap! Well out of a barn roof actually. Well, I knew there was a reason for me finding it. Drop me a line z240@shaw.ca and I'll send some pics if you're interested.

There is a rubber like putty commonly know as "dumm dumm" that is used as seal for windshields, tail lights, that sort of thing. Auto parts stores have it. It comes in a roll, is about 1/4 diameter bead of this super sticky rubber compound. Rip off a chunk, warm it up, knead it, stretch it, stuff it into the spaces you have. Stays soft. Tony is talking about various gasket making goo in a tube that is very similar to silicon caulking. Not bad to use for this I suppose, but surfaces have to be clean if you expect it to stick and seal. Just don't use old socks...

Crank pulley bolt torque is 116-130 ft-lbs Seal goes in without a driver. Just tap in around the circumference with a rubber mallet. No grease, other than engine oil on lip and pulley to ensure it slips on easy. Biggest trick is look at polished surface on crank pulley where seal lip rides. Must be as clean, smooth and perfect as possible. If you current seal leaks, there is a reason, and it may not be just the seal, but the beat up rusty dirty pitted surface it rides on. And no beer. Wait till it all runs again. Jim

That line around the front of the rad is someone's great idea to keep the gas line cool to prevent vapor lock I'm betting. Definitely not stock. The two hard lines down by the alt on the frame rail are where they end. Put a fuel filter on the supply (5/16 line, smaller is return) and go straight to the carbs by the shortest route. My preference is on using just a mechanical pump. Quiet, plenty of volume to feed my 3.1 stroker and 44 mikuni's, trivial and cheap to replace. Went through several electrics that burned out (in my opinion) due to lack of cooling from no return. Never could get proper return regulation due to insufficient return line size. Now if we could only get these things to start more easily....

Large exhaust leaks from exhaust manifold/pipe cracks or its related gaskets/connections near the engine are usually accompanied by a very distinct ticking sound as you can hear the combustion. It's loudest during engine revving, and absent during run-down, ie explosion specific. If your engine bay is "quiet" then I'm going go with exhaust gases coming in the back somewhere from the exhaust pipe outlet. There are many many threads here that describe the seemingly endless places where it can enter back there. Tail lights, hatch gaskets, and missing drain plugs seem to top the list, but as I said, I can list 30 spots off the top of my head that may be partly to blame. hunt like a CSI with a bright flashlight in a dim room....

4 of 10 x 1.25 for the bracket to rear panel. 30 mm are plenty long. The nuts that hold the studs on the bumper to the bracket are the same. The threads on the welded on nut on the tab at the bumper tips where they bolt to the side of the car are also 10x1.25 on my car (72 bumpers), but the same nuts on front bumper tips where 6x1.0 thread. Not sure if that's standard or not. Seemed a bit odd at the time.. Hope that helps!