beandip

Basicly , the 240s are the same. Having said this , mostly I am talking about the major components, engine trans and so forth. '70--'72 were the closest in that there were not effected by the emissions as much as later years. It is hard to answer your questions because there have been little changes made during the same years . The interior trim are different from '72 to '73 and again '74 and of cource the engine being a 260 . You would be best to ask of certain year of Z . The history of the Z has been well documented .

yep happends every sunday

with the ''tree ''at the drags , its only about timing to the green light. think about it guys the yellow is only to time when the green light comes on. Having a quicker light would be of no advantage . If you wanted that just eliminate on light! HELLO

Dident You Notice That This Is A 3 Year Old Thread ?

take off the sun glasses !

I THINK YOU HAVE ANSWERED YOUR OWN QUESTION ABOUT THE COLOR. As for not matching the engine bay , spending what a good paint job costs, upward of $1800.00 to 3K and to have your beautiful Z look like you are dressed to go out on the town with one yellow sock and one red one and miss matching shoes. That's all I am not a purest and favor restorations , I painted my Z a '05 Ford yellow. Engine bay included though . just my 2 cts Gary by the way have a look at Toyota '05 Stratosphere blue, if you like dark blue this will blow your socks off . Both colors ! all the best .Gary

Super dave, the hair net would be a good option here , or maby a butterfly net. Tommy your a riot :stupid: I know you can't be serious here.

SORRY TOMMY BUT 90 IN A GOOD Z AINT NO BIG DEAL

unless you are trying to maintain the origional Z , paint the color you like best!! If you are not going to pull the engine and do the engine bay , then paint it that color. A z that is one color and the engine bay is another lowers the value and looks cheesey

IF YOU WERE IN THE 700 mph area and if you were driving at 186 MPH the wrong directon you would actually going backwards 514 MPH !!!!!!!!!!!!

I can see it now driving down the parkway wearing a helmet with the air conditioning on . on the track is one thing but on the street ! you have got to be kidding !

You might go to the hybred Z web sight . They are involved with big block V-8s and such in the Z cars. Some one there may be of help with this. Rairly have I heard of the half shafts failing even with high HP applications. Gary

THIS IS RIGHT TO THE POINT . CONTRIBUTE THAT IS WHAT WE ARE HERE FOR . TO BE ABLE TO HELP ONE ANOTHER WITH THE Zs OF THERE CHOICE. hOWEVER THERE IS A WEB SITE DEDICATED TO HIBREDS , HELLO ! THIS IS NOT IT. THATS ALL . I DONT KNOW OF ANY ONE THAT KNOWS EVERYTHING ABOUT THESE CARS , WELL VARY FEW ANYWAY. ALLEN FROM THE UK. IS ONE OF THE MOST IMFORMED . IF WE GET INVOLVED WITH HIBREDS WE MIGHT AS WELL INCLUDE MUSTANGS AND HONDAS. SORRY FOR YOUR THIN SKIN. :tapemouth :rambo:

HELLO ! When in a forign country eat the food they do . You want American food expect to pay . No brainer. In these countries the mind set is different . The cars are for transportation , period . Most don't have the luxury we do to have a hobby like the Z , or other cars. Survival first. We are fortunate here to be able to do what we do.

YOU HAVE MY EMAIL ADDRESS . GARY I removed the evap tank because I dident want fuel in the cabin and wanted to eliminate as much as possable plus eliminating the stail fuems. easy to do . Zs built for the UK or Canada dident have the tank to start with . A great place to buy the nuts and bolts for the cars is ACE hardware of all places. In Salem I dont know there location but there is a ACE in Ptln that has a esxtensive assortment , the best I have ever seen . Even stainless and chrome plated. Still here to help !Gary

So What Is The Question ? Do You Want Some One To Clapp Or What? There Are Alot Of Hybreds Out There.

DONT USE COPPER LINE FOR FUEL OR BRAKE OR ANY THING ELSE ON YOUR CAR. The vibration will cause it to fail . I am not sure what tank you are refering to . If its the evap tank , you can use a couple of 1/2'' 90s to make a bend for the vent from the top of the fuel tank and run a 5/8'' FUEL line from the tank to the filler neck, if you are doing away with the evap tank, or run it up to the evap tank. Personally I removed the evap tank and all the vent line except for one. Gary

In '73 the wireing connections changed and the plugs that had to pass through this hole were / are larger and fewer. In other words insted of several litle plugs there are just a couple. I have a '73 and just came accross the grommet in question the day before yesterday. I also need the grommet to seal off the firewall on my Z , is there any way some one could use this one to makie a mold ? Gary

Carl, I agree with the 2 1/4'' being the best for street , and I would go that route , except I have a 2 1/2'' mandrel bent plumbing already and want to just replace the muffler . I would go with the duel pipes as I have had these before and if they are interconnected it helps to eliminate the resonance. But with the 2 1/2 I don't want to be setting off car alarms. I have had the Thrush turbo and found it lacking and burned out quickly .The Super Turbo is there higher quality unit and I most likely will go that route. Thanks all . Gary

CREMMENGA, dont hi-jack this thread , if you have a question post it as a new thread .

THIS IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS GOING TO RECOMMEND . CHECK THE LEADS INSIDE THE DIST, SENCE YOU ARE STILL RUNNING POINTS. Could be a broken wire that is flexing inside the plastic shield and when the vacume plate rotates to advance the timing it could be lacking contact or shorting out. Gary

Have you removed the pannel below the hatch sill and checked the openings that the vent hoses come through , they need to be sealed. While there look along the bottom edge where the floor meets the back sheet metal and check for missing calk or any small openings . below the antena there is a drain hole and below the evap tank the large filler and two vent hoses also go through to the out side and need to be sealed. On the hatch there are two round rubber plugs , check them as well. It was mentioned eailer the gaskets for the tail lights they are something to look at for sure. On the engine is there a vent hose from the valve cover going to the air cleaner ? Or do you have a little filter attached to the elbow on the cover ? This can add to the problem. You dident mention it but is the smell stronger if you roll DOWN the windows while driving ? If this the fact , then for sure the leak is in the rear of the cabin. Take some 2'' masking tape and seal the hatch and drive the car, easy way to see if this is where the leak is.

Before you go out an blow a bunch of cash on a electric pump , have a look at the local bone yard and see if you can come up with a electric pump from a '79 and early '80s pump from a RX-7 , no regulator needed and works like a champ and quiet too. I paid $15. for mine . Have a look at the rear main seal and replace it if there is ANY question of it seeping , the same with the pan gasket. Do NOT disterb any crud inside the engine block when you pull the pan , if you dislodge any chuncks they could block an oil passage . Just clean out the pan. Dont use sylicone sealer on the gasket , if you do use it spairingly . If the clutch is in question change it also and the throwout bearing . All the best to you and your Bride.

Is any one running one of these mufflers with 2 1/2'' systime with headers ? I am debating on this one or a simular but streight through muffler made by the same co. Gary

I just cut mine out with a STANLEY razor knife . This is how they pulled my ''new'' one at the bone yard . Came out with no fuss at all.