kully 560

I have a 1979 e12/80 dissy running with a e46 manifold .the manafold pulls vaccum all the time and the carb pulls under throttle ( ported vaccum) at idle the ported vaccum hardly pulls any . but under throttle it pulls great I found the ported is best for me when I give it the gas the vaccum advances my timming kurt

well just to let anybody know if they are looking at these tires I put about 20 miles on them and all I can say is very smooth and handle great!!!.I told my wife when I came home it just made my 1974 z ride like a 20 year newer car.tire size I went with is a 205/65/15 speed rated v .I wanted to stay with my other size 215/60/15 but cooper only offered them in a h rated speed. so I stepped up to the 205/65/15 for the v rated. my old tires were dunlap sport a2 with only about 2000 miles on them in the 10 years I owned them.I am so happy with these tires maybe I will start to drive the car more . I hope this helps anybody who might be looking at the coopers cs4.by the way cooper offers a 45 day trial and I got the $40 rebate.so $69 each installed after rebate kurt

I have a early 260z with a L28 motor ,1979 dissy,e46 intake manifold,4 bold su carbs.been reading old posts and my service manual .the vaccum line I have hooked to my vaccum advance on my dissy is from the ported vaccum valve on the front carb. am I supposed to have a tee in that line and run it to the carbon canister where it says dist. vc ? right now I am running the dist. vc line from the carbon canister to manifold vaccum.there is allways a strange smell to this car when not running in my garage .I would like to straighten out the vaccum line if they are not right.thanks kurt

I am looking for the choke cable support bracket that mounts to the valve cover. as I understand the 1974 260z only used this bracket ,it mounts almost in the center from back to front.if anybody has one and not useing it, it would help me. of course I would pay for it also kurt

sblake01 you did not put me on the offence . I have owned this car since 1979 and there is allways something to tinker with. thats why people love z cars. sometimes I put off a problem for a long time as the car sits in my garage and does not get used for a while.then I get the bug to drive it and work on it . the car is fully restored but there is allways upgrades to be done.when I can not fix a problem I put it off for a while to give my head a rest and look for something else to tinker with kurt

beezee the tech had me use my fluke meter and I read the tach output on the msd6a and it was between 2.8 volts and 3.1 volts so that told him the tach output was working fine. then I took the reading on the msd 8920 and the voltage was 14volts it was the violet wire for the tach. so that was working fine. so we spoke a little more about wireing and decided seperate feeds and seperate grounds .it works like a charm.so I guess you know beezee this made my day .but I still need to run a seperate feed as I said I tryed it off of the positive side of the battery.I will pull fuse box and detail it and hook up the seperate feed this week and let you know . the tech thinks the feed for the 8920 was spliced in to close to the msd6a kurt

sblake01 I fixed the interlock seat belt problem 2 weeks ago as another forum member told me which wire to use from the interlock relay .the black with white tracer I connected to the solenoid and it starts perfect .I replyed back to him and thank him.the tach is fixed today as posted in the drivetrane section. but another member yesterday ask me to try and take a voltage reading from the parking light circuit to see if there is a voltage drop, as the parking circuit can have trouble from overload. he thought that could have caused me trouble with the tack.so 35 year old fuse box I would like to put new in but nla so I will detail it .p90a head still on hold kurt

beezee I spoke to msd today and resolved the tach issue ,the bouncing or pulse issue was because they recommend on the 8920 to ground to the battery not chassy. also I had to refeed the msd8920 from another source such as not from the black/white tracer wire that feeds the msd 6a.and also feed the b term on the e12/80 dissy. it pick up pulse from the msd 8920 which caused the tach trouble.I feed the msd 8920 direct from the battery and my tach is perfect, with lights on or off.so I need to pick another source for power.I am going to pull my fuse box and detail and rebuild it for cleaner power as the oem is nla and msa says the 1973 will not fit.can not hurt as it is 35 years old. kurt

is there a difference between a 1973 240 fuse box and a early 1974 260 fuse box.like to upgrade my 260 one as the fuse holders are loose . msa only shows 1971 /1972 or /1973 thanks

i will check and let you know the results thanks kurt

beezee I found the tach output and tried wireing the white wire from the 8920 to it and left the msd6a white wire connected to the c term on the e12/80 .the tach works but not as good as before and now when the headlights are turn on the tach stops working alltogether.the other 2 black wires that went to the ballast resister I spliced together also.I remember when I talk to msd tech I thought they said I might need a capacitor in line that they would supply but just want to make sure I have it hooked up correct. at least the 8920 works somewhat but the 8910 did nothing at all!

I have the msd 6a with no tach output and the violet wire I thought from the 8920 was the tach output

I have a early 1974 260z with e12/80 dissy .installed the msd 6a with the blaster 2 coil .could not get the tach working with the msd 8910 so I pickup the msd 8920 tach adaptor. tach works but there is a little bounce there and also when the headlights are turned on it stops for a moment. I hooked up the msd 4 wire tach adaptor as follows black ground, red 12v switch power, violet to blue wire from wire harness in car which is the tack wire, white to white wire from msd 6a and also connects to c term. on e12/80. msd is closed today . is this the correct hookup thanks kurt

yes, I believe that msd told me that the 8910 is for positive side of coil and the 8920 is for the neg. side of coil . I ordered the 8920 so when it gets here I will give it a try, hope it works . it bothers me to have a good ingition now and no tach.i could install the autometer tach but it does not look like the orignal guages close but no cigar kurt

the tach stop working last summer when I installed the e 12/80 dissy. my 260 had the electronic dual pickup dissy in it which was the one for automatic cars. it retards timming when motor was warmed up for the emmissions crap back then. I tried several resisters in line with the blue wire but the tack just jumped aroung.thought I was close when I installed a 1 watt 7.5k ohm resister in line but then it was still never right. so that why I went with the msd .all I can say is the msd is worth every penny as far as the car runs big improvement .msd says the 8920 has a seperate wire just for the tach lead .they claim the current is to high for the 8910. but I see alot of people here use the 8910 . I read alot of posts and it looks like alot of 240 cars update with this msd and maybe the 240 tachs are different that I do not know kurt

thanks for the help I will pickup the 8920 it easyer to do this then change the tach kurt

thanks zforce but I have that diagram and my wire colors are different .I have a bk/wh color, blue solid color ,bk/blue color. I spoke to msd several times today each tech tells me a little different but all say at the end I only need the single tach wire which I think is the blue .one tech said to try the diode but still no good and then several techs said to order the 8920 tach adaptor???they can not get it straight.

I have a early 1974 260 z with msd 6a ,8910 , blaster 2 coil ,e12/80 dissy.I hooked up the dissy ,msd 6a and engine runs great. but I can not get the tack working! unplug the harness from the ballast resister and was left with 3 wires in the plug . black /white tracer,blue solid,black /blue tracer. there was a seperate 12volt wire in with the harness that I used for the 12volt switch feed,black with white tracer. I believe the blue wire runs my tack, when I hooked up the blue wire with just the coil and e12/80 on the neg. side tack would jump around. so I installed several resistors in line trying to get the tack working with no luck. so I went with msd equipment. still can not get my tack to work. I have the msd 8910 and tied the blue wire in with the white wire from c term. on e12/80 and car will not start. any solutions thanks kurt

thank you I thought so

I am reading so many posts on this that some people used the b& c on the e12/80 and I thought that someone did not use it they took off the e12/80 .so what to do?I just ordered it and want to be ready when it gets here I also ordered the tach adaptor 8910 . thanks kully

thanks everbody for the great info all I need to do is try to locate the solid lifters

I have a 1983 p90a head with hydraulic lifters ,orignal 14k miles .would like to convert it over to solid lifters does anybody know what parts needed and where to order them.I am running the n47 head on a f54 block now and would like to set this up for a spare, or if it might be possible to shave it down and replace for better head.thanks

thanks everybody for the help I did use the black wire with yellow tracer and splice on to it and ran it to the selonoid and work great thank you .

thanks I will give it a try kully

thanks stephen I was looking at that switchagain. I am going to open the switch up and look inside it. seems when I looked at it yesterday it felt like it is held in electricly. notice they talk about leaving the key in on position then pushing the switch .it felt like when you push the switch with key off it stayed in same position . buy when power is on it stayed in then release back to orignal position .I think it is a momentary switch .I will open it up today and let you know .thanks kully