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Everything posted by jcdozier

  1. IVAN: I installed a small (about eight inch diameter) fan on the radiator and hooked it to the stock electrical system. I didn't remove the stock fan, so I had to install the fan as a pusher rather than a puller. The fan has a thermostat unit that is inserted into the radiator fins. It proved to be a cheap and effective cure to my overheating problems.
  2. BAMBIKILLER: I had traffic overheating problems with my '71 when I lived in the Bay Area (we know what traffic can be like there). I installed a cheap electric fan with a thermostatic control and solved the overheating problem. It doesn't take a big (i.e., expensive) fan to get the job done. A modest amount of air moving through a relatively small area of the radiator is MUCH better than the wisp of air pulled through the entire radiator by the stock fan.
  3. I've been running an electric fan on my '71 240 for about ten years now and have never had an electrical problem with, or because of, it. I don't think you will have a problem.
  4. It's been awhile since I lived in California, so I don't remember many of the details of the CARB regulations, but you may want to check them before you remove too much of the smog equipment. As I recall, older cars are exempt from smog inspection but I don't remember the cutoff date/age for the exemption. An '81 engine may still require "smogging" for registration renewal. There was some discussion here related to this several months ago, so you might find something by searching the archives. I have removed much of the smog "stuff" from my '71, but I no longer live in California. If your engine qualifies for the smog exemption, pulling off the smog junk may help it run a little better.
  5. Someone (Mike??) set up the solution to the "how to help defray expenses" problem several months ago. Go to the Home Page and look for the "Donations" box about half-way down the right side. Click on the grey (or gray) DONATE button and you will be taken to a page where you can make your donation using PayPal.
  6. jcdozier

    What goes where

    I bought a pair from MSA about six months ago. You might check to see if they still have them.
  7. jcdozier

    350Z cabrio

    Datzun76: Yep, I'm a Clemson fan (and alum) - we have season's tickets for football and baseball. Fortunately, I'm NOT a basketball fan. Been thinking I should paint my Z orange.........
  8. jcdozier

    350Z cabrio

    A butt-ugly car without a top is still a butt-ugly car. ':sick:'
  9. I would be surprised if you get a horsepower increase by changing the ignition system. What you can get is a better running engine and, with a coil upgrade, a stronger spark. IMHO the best thing you can do with a points-type ignition is throw it away after replacing it with an electronic ignition. Lots of choices out there - I have a Mallory electronic distributor and a Pro-Master coil on my '71 240.
  10. Why not just get the kit from ZTherapy? I rebuilt my '71 roundtops with the ZTherapy kit last year - it's not difficult to do and you get the "right" tubing. Plus it's a LOT cheaper than the $800 or so the mechanic wants to charge you. I've also seen the yes/no posts about the grose jets - haven't had a problem with them.
  11. A very impressive "remanufacture" job. And I agree with your expressed attitude. It's your car, your time, your money - you get to make the decisions. Congratulations.
  12. A great find! Your friend wouldn't happen to have another he would sell to CoastGuardZ, would he?
  13. Yep, typical Z thermostats are either 160 or 180 degree units. Changing the pressure does change the boiling point, but that shouldn't affect the operation of the thermostat. Typical radiator cap is rated at 13 pounds, but even at atmospheric pressure the coolant should be liguid at either thermostat setting. A 240 thermostat only costs 6 or 8 bucks, so it wouldn't be a budget-buster to just get a new one and plug it in.
  14. Sorry you missed it, Nathan. Keep looking - it's out there. OBTW, did you know there is a "cars for sale" posting on www.zdriver.com ? Lots of 260/280/300 traffic, but some 240's as well. Scroll down the home page to the Classifieds,
  15. Don't let us discourage you, but read over the posts carefully before you spend your money. I've always felt delayed gratification is vastly overrated, but when it comes to your first Z a little caution and patience can make a big difference. There is one given to Z ownership - you will spend time and money on that 30-year-old car. More money spent up front can mean less later. It can also mean less time working and more time riding. I find the time spent "improving" my Z much more satisfying than that spend repairing it - almost as satisfying as driving it. It's not nearly as much fun fixing what has to be fixed as it is putting in something new or different. Good luck. I hope the '71 you're looking at is just what you want.
  16. You might give the ZBarn folks a call for the towing hooks. They are in Tennesse, so shipping might be quick. 1-800-247-2795 Web site is www.zbarn.com
  17. DEFINITELY turn the engine over by hand a few times to be sure everything is freed up. I think putting some Marvel Mystery Oil (you can get it at the local parts store) in each cylinder and then turning the engine over by hand is a good thing. Did that to my '71 after it had been sitting for about a year. Don't use too much - about a teaspoon full for each cylinder is enuf - it will burn off quickly, so don't worry about the blue smoke for the first couple of minutes.:classic:
  18. Local shops here didn't have a press that the assembly would fit into. Not big enough for the whole cross member to fit into and not enough "offset" to get to just one bearing at a time. Perhaps I should have looked around some more for a shop with the right press.........
  19. I agree that points are a pain. I have electronic ignition - Mallory Unilite distributor and Promaster coil - on my 240. I don't see any reason to ever go back to a points-type ignition.
  20. I, too, am a RSPBRC member (thanks Zvoiture). Having "been there and done that", I wish I could offer some suggestions, but my experience wasn't any different than the posts. Blowtorch, small hammer, hacksaw, larger hammer, cold chisel, even larger hammer - it takes 'em all to get the job done. Having done it, I no longer consider the rear spindle bushings Replacement Parts on my Z. If mine ever need replacing again, I will just replace the whole car.
  21. jcdozier

    Power Antenna

    Try Motorsport Auto - 800-633-6331. I haven't looked in their catalog lately, but they used to have them - I got the complete unit from them years ago.
  22. Rather than spend time and effort on the spare tire, why not get a cellular telephone and a AAA card? In addition to freeing up space, they weigh less than the spare, too.
  23. Like CARGUYINOK, I used Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish and plenty of elbow grease. It's been over a year since I polished my slotted "mags" (they're actually aluminum) and they still look pretty good. Mine were in really bad condition, so it took a long time and a lot of rubbing - my fingers were sore for a couple of days.:tapemouth . I think a buffing wheel for a variable-speed electric drill or Dremel might make the job easier.
  24. I think the Classic Z is "about" both looks AND performance, so dropping in a V-8 is okay with me. Having said that, it is unlikely that I will ever make the conversion unless my engine self-destructs. For an older dude, the original straight six provides all the performance I need. The block, head, and intake mainfold in my '71 Type-I are all original, and in some probably perverse way I like that. I have, however, "improved" it with electronic ignition and Hooker headers........
  25. If the car is as original and pristine as advertised, and with the original documentation (window sticker, manuals, etc.), the price isn't bad. If one is into the "original thing", finding, buying and restoring an "average" Z to original condition will cost at least that much. A truly original Z in really good condition is a rare find. The "average" Z out there has some rust, some worn out parts (suspension bushings, 30-year-old springs, etc.) and a lot of miles on it. Typically, the clock hasn't worked since 1983, the radio (and antenna) has been replaced, the dash is cracked and the seats show substantial wear. The engine needs some work - probably burns a few quarts of oil between changes - the radiator should be replaced, and the fuel tank hoses are shot. the average Z is looking for a new owner who likes tinkering with cars and enjoys driving a really great old car. With a little patience and luck, one can find a pretty good 240-Z that will only need a little work for under $4,000. If one is willing to do some rust repair and other "medium-heavy" work, there are "average" 240s out there for half that price. Understand we're not talking "original 240-Z" here, but ones that have been "improved" by the PO and driven for many miles, but that are excellent cars nonetheless - cars that one can "personalize" and drive and have fun with.