Leaderboard

I'm a little late to the party as you have succeeded in removing the filler neck. For reference here is a post on what I did on my 1970 a few years back, I was lucky that mine was easier than yours. I have found that the "pushing" a hose off a barbed fitting works much better than trying to pull it off, same principal here.

Happy to hear that I can help. I had no idea I had a fan. Lol

You're welcome. I have received a lot of help from this forum, and I'm grateful to hear that my "documenting of work" posts are useful to others. I agree that are experiences were similar on the fuel tank. Cheers, Mike

At the request of @Yarb here are some details on my pop rivet install of the squeegee rubber on the belt molding. Background: When I was doing my car 14 years ago, replacement squeegee rubber was not available but Black Dragon had complete belt molding assemblies available at a great price. The molding was excellent but it was straight and not curved to fit the pinchweld on the top of the door. After several tries it was obvious the new molding would not easily curve into the required shape and I was not going to risk damage to a fresh paint job. So... I removed the squeegee strip with its thin metal backplate still stapled in place and installed it on my OE molding with 1/8" pop rivets spaced about every 4 1/2" at the staples. The backside of the pop rivets does not interfere with the fit onto the pinchweld.

Huge fan of Mr @CanTechZ His advice has always been spot on, saving me a lot of time and....MONEY. Thank you Sir! Cliff

CanTechZ thanks for your post and introducing me to your amazing re-restoration posts. I just spent a couple of hours looking through all of them. Great insights and many useful photos. Looks like we had similar experiences with the fuel tank and filler hose connection.

Be patient. Good advice. Too busy yesterday but got back to it this morning. BTW I did get the pics from Harbor Freight. They worked great. Kept working them gently around where the filler hose meets the gas tank using WD 40 with it's straw for a lubricant. As soon as I let the tank down a bit further and pushed it to the side it popped loose from the filler hose. Now lets see, reassembly is just reversing what you did to take it apart, right? Great video on tank cleaning by the way. Lol. Thanks for all the help and suggestions everyone. I'll probably start a new thread soon on my reassembly efforts with the new gas tank.

I have some urgent projects around the house which I hope to be able to finish in the following days, but I hope after that I have loads of time for the Z again. So this will be a very quick update: I got some nice documents from Japan again: The first one is the "Z-2" Service Shuho Book, which is the equivalent of the English bulletins. They have become quite pricey recently, so i stick to focus on the most important ones, but when Z-2 (introduction of the Automatic transmission cars) showed up for a reasonable price, i made sure to get it. Here's my collection so far. There are plenty more, which I hope to add to my collection whenever they pop up for a good price. The second document is the December 1973 Nissan sports option catalogue for the HS30 "240Z". It's probably the most extensive one, which is 12-pages strong. It focuses on the HS30 Fairladies only, which means most of the listed parts also fit my HLS30 car. The other catalogues are either much thinner, or focus on a different car (Z432, for e.g.) or a whole range of Cars (240 / 260 / 280Z). But basically, it was a good price and missing in my collection, so that's why I got it. I hope for more updates, soon, I have some things planned... And I have some very cool things waiting to be picked up by me, or on the way here...

Be patient. Space heater to warm the whole thing up? (Here, this time of year, we wouldn't be having that problem...) I wouldn't use pliers. I'd try prying the end of the filler hose away from the tank (or the tank away from the filler hose - which ever way you want to look at it.) with one or two long prying tools (whatever works to catch the edge of the hose without harm - thin or wide) Long screwdrivers? Flat pry bar? Regular pry bar? Non-metallic pry tool? But you do need to somehow break the "bond" that the rubber has made with the steel inlet tube. Then treat the filler hose with Meguiar's Hyper Dressing...