Leaderboard

I'm getting ready to install a new radiator in my 260Z. I went with a Mishimoto radiator. For prep work, I installed rivnuts on the radiator to make it easier to bolt in. They feel very secure on the mounting tabs, and it beats trying to thread a nut onto a bolt run through the radiator support. I think my supervisor approved of my work, too.

I am starting to clean up parts now, so figured I would start with the differential. A lot of the undercarriage parts have a healthy coating of dirt on them as you can see in the picture of the differential below. I think the combination of dirt and oil on the parts created a nice protective coating as there does not appear to be much rust....just a lot of oily dirt. Typically I would leave the aluminum bare on the differential as I think that looks very cool, however, we are planning on making this as close to the original as possible so the entire diff, except for the stud threads, are painted black. Pics below.

I had to clearance the holes on the radiator support bracket from 10mm to 13mm, but the radiator is in.

Regarding "D" center hub caps, an interesting Car & Driver on-line article about the old and new Z cars today. The article compares a 1973 Z with the 2024 version. See link below. However, the author shows a picture of what he refers to as a '73 Z that he borrowed from the Nissan Headquarters in Tennessee and it appears to be a '71ish Z based on "D" HUB CAPS and photo of center console ash tray. https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a63229871/unpopular-opinion-reconsider-the-nissan-z/?source=nl&utm_source=nl_cdb&utm_medium=email&date=122424&utm_campaign=nl37951526&oo=Y&GID=1a01133ea0d02d4b1791e6ffa69c88abfdffda37a369d281a1e7b3161e600ccb&user_email=1a01133ea0d02d4b1791e6ffa69c88abfdffda37a369d281a1e7b3161e600ccb&utm_term=TEST- NEW TEST - Sending List - AM 180D Clicks%2C NON AM 90D Opens%2C Both Subbed Last 30D

I sorted the parts that need to be re-plated by color, yellow zinc or clear zinc. I did a quick clean to knock off excess dirt and wire wheeled the areas where there was paint overspray from the previous paint job. I put some shrink sleeve over the plastic portion of the carb linkage to protect them during the cleaning process. I also plugged the holes of the carb and smog accessories to prevent the fluids from entering inside. I then put the small parts in gallon zip lock bags. I had one box of the clear/silver zinc parts, and 3 boxes of the yellow/gold zinc parts. I used three boxes for the yellow zinc because of the excess weight (USPS flat rate shipping box). Each box weighed approximately 20 pounds For the plating process, the 3 yellow/gold zinc parts will be thrown into a single barrel, so the charge will be for just one yellow zinc barrel plate. The plating company does a good job of cleaning the smaller parts in their prep process. I am guessing it is either a vibe or tumble process along with a chemical clean that they use to clean the parts to remove dirt and rust. I spent a bit more time cleaning the long tubes and larger parts as they will be rack plated and I do not think they get cleaned as well. On the long tubes I put in a large diameter bend in order get the parts to fit in my 4 foot shipping box. They said they can accomodate parts up to 6 feet in length. All plating is done by Sav-On plating in Phoenix, AZ. They have done a great job with my parts on previous restorations. Pics Below

Yup, definitely a '71 for the reasons you state and a couple of others: bumpers in nice and tight against the body, fuel door has a lock, straight gear shift rod to match the early console. At least he has good intentions with the article.

She's gotten a lot bigger!