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Some jobs should be left to the professionals……

I believe it is possible to get different year pointers and dampers mixed up. I would make a mark on the damper at TDC and add the other 4 five degree marks by approximation. Or you could use a dial back timing light with the TDC mark to get timing close. The dampers can shift even if you can't move it by hand

I’m an idiot, and was testing continuity to ground while the BY starter wire was connected to the solenoid, so of course it showed continuity. Removed it from the solenoid spade, no continuity. Anyways, that was just an aside rabbit hole… Received the new ignition switch yesterday. Boom, turned over just like it should. Bottom line, the aftermarket ignition switches from cheap unknown brands (sold through zcardepot), might not be great quality. This new one I got from Amazon is “standard motor products” brand and will hopefully last longer. Nonetheless, I learned some new things on how the ignition switch is wired to the starter. Special thanks to @SteveJ for all the pointers.

Piston stops in the plug holes. Rotate backward and forward and mark each spot. TDC is halfway between. Moght as well check the notch and groove. Put the groove over the notch and that should be within a few degrees of TDC. Your cam sprocket seems off in the picture. https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/comp-cams/comp-cams-piston-top-dead-center-locator-tool/com0/4795

Yep, fuel was feeding to the return line. And the auxiliary fuel tank setup seems (?) to have kept it from dying. It was driving/idling around 15-20 minutes in the neighborhood without sucking the filter dry like before. Checked & cleaned the last-chance screens here. I'll check the eccentric tomorrow, thanks.

All good suggestions. Also check the eccentric on the camshaft that drives the pump. Make sure it's torqued properly. If the cheap ugly fuel pumps aren't too expensive, I would swap one in to help pinpoint the problem Several options on rockauto under $30, one under $20

No offense intended, but keeping the matching block with a 260Z probably adds very little value. It's just the way things are. People just don't appreciate the 260's like they do the 240's and 280's. My theory is that it's the shape of the 6 compared to a 4 or an 8. If you really want more power then an L28 swap would probably be the best value for the money. On the other hand, if you just want to see what you can do with an L26 then what you're talking about makes sense. Good luck.