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I would measure what really happens rather than hope the table is correct, before taking any actions. You can set the timing to zero, to stay on the indicator, or use a dial-back timing light. Connect the vacuum advance to intake vacuum at idle and get the vacuum advance number. Disconnect the vacuum advance and rev it up to get the centrifugal. The TB vacuum advance hose is ported vacuum and only works when the throttle blade is off-idle.

It turns out it is part of a velcro system for holding the carpet in place. Here's a shot of some original carpet with the velcro attache.

Got it running again. It took a LOT of cranking; those 2 inline filters took a while to fill. I installed the fuel pressure gauge on the rear carb line, like you guys suggested. Registered 3 psi at idle, which I think is OK. Now that the float bowls are full, I'm going to try to baseline the fuel level in the jets using the micrometer technique. Wish me luck, haha. Side note: My dad did a great job refinishing the steering wheel. It took a LOT of elbow grease.

I have finished my ZG engine bay cosmetic refresh project. I am quite happy with the results, even though it looked very un professional outcome. Please enjoy pictures! Kats

Max vacuum will be at deceleration - idle second highest. Under load vacuum will diminish and cruise vacuum will be kinda middle of the MAP range (Manifold Absolute Pressure). Except at Idle, MAP is always changing and LOWERS when you have your foot in it. I think your assumption that advance might hit 55 degrees is likely unfounded. When the mechanical advance is highest, vacuum advance is nominal. When vacuum advance is highest, mechanical advance is non-existent (except on deceleration perhaps where advance is not likely to be a problem). I'm going by what I see on my MAP gauge - correct me if I'm wrong. BTW - my MAP gauge goes BOTH ways... Oh, and I don't think Zed Head wasn't talking about vacuum ports on the balance tube - he was talking about the port on the carb near the throttle body...

Peekaboo.

Yes, it totally makes sense that the date codes on front and rear halves could be different. I would expect them to be "in the same ballpark", but certainly don't have to be identical. I would also consider it completely reasonable to see some cars with a build date early in a year to have calipers with a year code from the previous year. For example, something built in Feb 1971 might have a "0" caliper on it. Something from October-December 1970 maybe?

Here's a good starter Z. Probably get it for a good price. Has some minor accident damage but very little rust. Most of Washington state doesn't use salt. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1976-datsun-280z-91/

I just checked back into my project pics, have a shot of one backside and it is 7 0 X. No surprise to me as front and rear casting runs at a factory could have different schedules.

Eric the owner of PMB is on his way to his class reunion in Michigan. One of the kids is driving while he rehearses with his Strat in the back of his Cayenne. But he thanks you @SteveE! yes, he is the entertainment. Once every decade or so, his old band Brat gets back together for a gig. They opened for Heart a few times in the 1980’s. They make some good noise!

I found this photo on bringatrailer... What is this, and why is it there?

Hi all, I took apart my 1971 240Z 3 years ago, and even though I took lots of photos and documented almost everything, I can't figure out where this felt pad was glued onto. It's cross stitched so it's something special...anybody recognize it?

So I think I may have it sorted out. Don't want to speak too soon though... I installed an extra fuel filter inline next to the tank. I also installed a new primary fuel filter and the new fuel sender unit, o-ring and lock ring. I had to re-solder one of the connectors and use the heat gun on the rubber boots to get them soft enough to push over the terminals. I also blew out all the fuel lines with my air compressor turned down to 40-50 psi or so. Started the car after a bit of cranking to fill the filters, and it seemed to run...OK. Still missing and hunting somewhat, but I got it into a state where I could drive it around the neighborhood. After some more tinkering, it was alright, but then it died again the way it did last week. I coasted into the driveway and pulled the top off the rear carb fuel bowl: Dry as a bone. 😡 Really frustrating, but then I noticed that I forgot to put a hose clamp on the fuel pump inlet line. Also, it was kind of loose. I wonder if the fuel pump had been sucking air, creating a kind of vapor lock condition in the fuel lines? Regardless, I put a clamp on it, and the car seemed to run a lot better. I was able to drive it down the road a little ways and it didn't threaten to die at any time. I didn't want to get greedy so I came home and decided to wash it. It's the first bath it's had in almost 20 years. The paint cleaned up really well and looks fantastic; the painters did a great job with it. There are a couple of tiny water leaks but nothing major. I don't plan to drive it in the rain anyway. Current engine bay status: Yes, that's blue painter's tape protecting the left shock tower from getting scratched by the air filter wingnut.

Rebuilt the OEM fuel pump earlier this afternoon. I had the dinky-looking aftermarket piece on there, so it was nice to get this one back on the engine. Still waiting on the filter. I ordered an inline fuel pressure gauge too to help me suss out the issue. Going to blow the lines out with compressed air also. Really hoping it's not the screen in the tank.