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Took way longer to get to this than I was hoping, but finally got this project underway. I've got some fuel hose on the way I found a complete tank kit from 240.life (https://240z.life/product/fuel-hose-kit-for-fuel-and-vapor-hoses/) but it was a bit more than I was hoping to spend, and most of the fuel lines in my car have been replaced with non-cloth braided ones so being period-correct wasn't too big of a concern. Referencing this post: I went about measuring all the hose sizes I'd need and then started looking for appropriate fuel hoses and came up with two options from Gates and Continental but basically the measurements I ended up with for each hose and size: 3/16 - not totally sure but I think a fuel return line 5/16 - 48" - line from the metal fuel return rail to the top of the evap tank. This is also the fuel supply line hose size 3/8 - 32" - top connector on the front of the tank (this is the one with the complicated bend and people just tend to by a repro hose) 1/2 - 80" - connector at the driver side rear of the tank (this is the easiest one to access) 5/8 - 51" - the "U-shaped" hose at the top rear of the tank. This looks like it was the original hose and it was cracked on mine so when I tried to fill the tank I ended up getting a leak out of this one 3/4 - 15" - connects from the evap tank to the fuel filler neck These aren't necessarily 100% accurate and leave a little headroom but some part numbers for the Gates and Continental hose: Continental (note these are numbers from larger rolls, but this was the PN where I could buy them by the foot - https://www.tdiaustralia.com/product/fuel-line-emission-control-hose/ has more info): 3/16 - 20027934 5/16 - 20027995 3/8 - 20028045 1/2 - 20028115 5/8 - 20028134 3/4 - 20028141 Gates: 3/16 - 27001 5/16 - 27003 3/8 - 27004 1/2 - 27006 5/8 - 27008 3/4 - 27010 I ended up going with contintental as it's s till made in the US. The hose should get in tomorrow so I spent the day removing the evap tank and disconnecting as many of the fuel hosts as I could from the tank. I'm going to do a little crafting to try and get the appropriate bends in the hose and will report back I have a feeling the inside of the tank is going to have some rust in it so I might need to deal with that but want to wait till it's fully trained so I can scope it.

We have a high water table - I have a sump pump in the basement that operates much of the year, just less in the July/August time frame. That was the one that died just before we went to Baltimore & partially flooded the basement main area. I'm going to have to figure out what to do about the drainage behind the garage, however I don't want to get sidetracked on that right now, so I'm going to deal with the sill repair & siding, and leave the drainage until later on. Rained all day - so I got the receptacles wired (GFCI at the start of the run, shown earlier) & added a waterproof housing & switch for the new exterior door lighting Cover didn't arrive in time for me to add it before this pic This sucka is bright!

That's the thread I was thinking of but I couldn't find it. Unless the comments are in the one I linked. My general impression has been that the vapor lock problems caused people to make changes. And swapping to round tops from flat tops was a common change. Going back to what was known. Kind of like removing "emmissions junk", or going back to carbs from EFI. The past always seems more comfortable.