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Mr K. removed them. Personally. He carried tools with him all the time. Did it at the ports of entry. Jumped up and down on them a few times just to make sure. A few might have got through when he was having lunch though. This works for lots of other inexplicably missing items too...

Thought they were too 'gay'. Stuff like that has no place on a car proudly MADE FOR THE USA. Those guys in Japan tried to get 'Fairlady Z' emblems past him too, but he headed them off at the pass. Real men don't need no pesky splash pans.

this did not happen, instead i advanced the existing cam by 4 more degrees, grabbed a set of stock head bolts from oriellys and my friend helped me remove the broken ARP head bolt, got the engine back in the car and it fired up on open headers and no tune whatsoever, but the cam definitely sounds different from the last time with open headers, sounds like hot for teacher now! had to leave for school before i could drive it, but ill be back in less than 3 weeks where ill get things dialed in right. i just want to drive the car, beyond any modifications i need seat time. im not driving around the understeer very well and its causing some very slow driving. i orginally believed that the car was too oversteer prone, but further review of old racing footage brought me to realize hat its the corner entry understeer, then when the front finally catches i have too much input to the steering and its being too hash on the rear for corner exit, and v8 power isnt helping that. plan of attack is learning the tendancies of the car, adjusting my driving style as best i can, amd then starting with moving the engine/transmission forward and backwards since i have about 3" of adjustment to play with. once i get them in a happy place balance wise i can start looking at swaybars and such. I'll try to update again after ive driven the car some. the debate for more power always exists, its pretty fun being able to put bus lengths on them fancy dodge hellcats from a 60-160, but thats just the car showing off and i want something more, i strive to be a better driver regardless of what car im in, and i think the z will help with that. i can also detune the engine at will, and when the car comes up to AZ next semester and sees 5500-8200ft of elevation the loss in hp will be significant, which wil force me to improve my driving to keep up, especially against some of the boosted cars we have up here. I'll also likely be switching to some cheap all seasons for AZ until the weather warms enough for the nittos to provide an advantage, i hope to use them as an opportunity to get better at driving near the limit, as well as learning the roads around here. i will not drive in the snow rain or on salted roads, the nittos just cant get enough heat in them when its cold out, which happens a lot around here. we have a mountain road that gets very twisty nearby and with the average age in this town being 55, the whole road is empty after 8pm, a few weeks ago 10pm i drove from one side to the other and back and didnt encounter a single other car for over an hour of driving, but that was in the truck which handled those corners impressively well all things considered. with regards to swaybars as i approach that step in coming months, do yall have any recommendations for swaybars? im looking at the 1-1/8" front and 1" rear or possibly 1" for both, but starting with modifying my stock ones to get a real world understanding of how it affects the car. for now im primarily focused on handling, ride quality doesnt matter, im young and my body can still take it. on that same note, is there any handling benefits to be had for swapping from polyurethane bushings to steel ball bearings on the control arms? none of these suspension thoughts are critical for now, just something to daydream about until i can get back to the car. ill try to upload some pics and possibly video later this week of engine assembly. thank y'all for your continued support and advice throughout the years

A good alternative to clamps is blue painter's tape.

P/N 99999-20015 (a.k.a.) the Nissan Service Manual for Model L20A, L24 Series Engines, Page ET-5 appears to show a clip style clamp on the outflow part of the fuel strainer. It's hard to make out in the photo, but it looks like the typical Philips head wire band hose clamp from the hose to the fuel pump side. So the green 240Z appears to be setup closer to the original.

Correct - the splash pan's were installed as standard equipment during the 1973 Model Year. (which had all manor of problems with under hood heat effecting the fuel system and carb.s) The 73+ splash pans had "holes" in them were they wrapped about the sides - where the originals did not. As I recall the splash pans were added in order to reduce airflow drawn in by the Fan coming in under the bottom of the radiator and increase the airflow through the radiator. A Seal on the Radiator Core Support was also added for the 73 models and beyond. The first Seals added were bolted on at the Dealerships and later they were added to the manufacturing/assembly lines.

Two dimes (almost) rubbing together.

FWIW...the battery cover lid that came on my 12/71 car does not have vent holes. Recently replacements (now NLA) from the likes of Motorsports Auto, JDM-Car-Parts and 240Z Rubber Parts appear to have the holes. https://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/electric-components-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/original-battery-cover-set-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z?variant=731360985

TS70-42 8 Oct 1970 Cars with Black Interior Trim HLS30 02830 HLS30 03327 - California Models Cars with Brown or Blue interiors HLS30 03881 HLS30 04364 - California Models

Even using the 3m stuff I have struggled. The paint shop sold me some black urethane they said would hold anything. Haven't really tested it yet. Yes, lots of little clamps but not too strong or the seal will glue down with a pucker at every clamp