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I installed a rear seal on mine last week. Since the motor is on a stand being assembled, I put it on the crank before dropping it in. After installing the rear cap I noticed it was a bit ****-eyed in the seal bore. Looking at the distance from the block/cap chamfer edge to the seal was a little bit different from one side to the other. Less the a sixteenth of and an inch, but still visibly crooked. As said above, make sure it's square. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have brakes! Thanks to "Grannyknot" (Chris) who replied to my May 24 post and offered me a clean, used proportioning valve, I now have brakes. With neither my original valve nor the one I rebuilt passing fluid to the back brakes I was stuck. I installed Granny's and it works. Never before been so happy to see $$$DOT 5 brake fluid coming out of a bleeder. Many thanks Chris.

Hey guys, A little update. I spend the whole day adjusting the valves. The exhaust valve were loose and the intake were tight and what a tedious job!!! The valve noise I had before went away, the rear carb does not overflow and they are synced. The spark plugs were black, I cleaned them up. The car started right away without the choke. Now I need to hook up and adjust the choke and get a tach so I can finalize the adjustment. Went for a little spin and I noticed under load there seem to be a little starvation going on. Speak to you soon.

What gets me is the use of GD on television and that's one of the 10 commandments but arse or $^!# gets bleeped out? I guess being from the South that bothers me more than others?

SCORE! I slipped one by.

Got it working, the right combination was the spare signal switch and a 1/8th" ball bearing, all lights and signals are working perfectly now. I'm thinking maybe the rain had nothing to do with the failure, at least I'm hoping the rain had nothing to do with it. I've never read about anyone else having their signal switch blow due to wet connectors at the front of the car.

z boy, if you do decide to install a vacuum canister you don't have to spend $65 for one, I use a camping propane canister. Make sure it's empty first, the safety valve is just a schrader valve like from the valve stem on a car tire, unscrew it and blow some air into the canister blow out any remaining propane gas then drill out the main valve and the safety valve hole to 5/16", slip in a couple of pieces of 5/16ths hard gas line and solder, braze, weld or even seam seal them in. If I remember right the brake booster requires less than 14lbs of vacuum to activate the diaphragm so not very much.

Thanks! The seam sealer worked very well and the DTM primer/sealer completely covered it and made it almost invisible!

It's important to grease the lips of the seal.....then as you are sliding it on the crank, rotate it clockwise on the crank (this positions the lips correctly) as it approaches the block. I then tap it in squarely ( equally around the seal ) with a smooth block of wood and hammer.

This is the only R190 internal photo I have Kats:

Well, a little progress tonight! Got the sealer coat down. Looks pretty nice and smooth. I'm liking it!