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240260280 is on point above. One thing I would recommend is using an aftermarket tachometer or dwell/tach to ensure you know your true engine speed when doing any tuning. These are easy to hook up and allow you to see the engine RPM's while working under the hood. The original tachs in our cars seem to suffer from a little to sometimes a lot of inaccuracy.

My experience is you will be happier with a Nissan seal specially in the upper corners stainless fit. Good luck. Don's iPhone using Classic Zcar Club mobile

Try the piston lift experiment but with the engine at 2000rpm (use the fast idle screw in the middle of the carb linkage to get the 2000 rpm). If both carbs are getting the same air and same fuel, the rpm drop should be the same when you lift a piston. Note: 1. SU's are air balanced at idle using the stop screws on each side of the carb and a flow meter. 2. SU's are air balanced at 2,000 to 3000rm using the screw in the linkage near the back carb (the back carb's air is matched to the front carb). 3. The fuel is matched by jet height and needle shape.

Mail is a standard. Email is a standard. Facebook is a company......that has nearly fooled everyone.

All right. That's it. No more sanding and filling the bottom chassis. Cleaned the shop up tonight. Will do it again the next time I'm in there, then on to the seam sealing! Whew!

Nissan calls them "Control Unit Checking Terminals". Shown on the big wiring diagram, by the ECU. Designed for some sort of test device. They just hang there, disconnected. Everybody wonders about them, eventually.

Actually, since the essential question (whcich lash pad?) doesn't consider the grind itself, or if it's stock or reground, I think he needs to take some measurements and probably do a trial or two. Lash pad thickness depends on more than just the cam. The procedure is described on pages 108-110 of Monroe's "How To Rebuild" book. No matter what you find out about the camshaft you'll still need to determine the right pad thickness for the head assembly by trial and measure.

I have been prepping my orange Z for the upcoming San Marino Motor Classic so have not spent much time on the resto here. Just did a couple small items. Not sure why, but the smog pump was painted blue. I used lacquer thinner to strip the paint which worked real well. The aluminum looks nice underneath. Still need to remove the back part of the pump and paint that nicely, then this will be ready to install. Assembled one of the smog system parts here (Throttle opener control valve?). That came out nice. Cleaned and painted a couple brackets. Not much to update with the paint shop. Miguel took a little time to work on another vehicle but will get back to this one this week.