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Maybe this has been posted before, not sure so I thought I would share. I recently picked up a second console with a defroster switch and choke plate that I needed for $75. I figured a spare console would be good anyway. When I got home I realized the switch was frozen. I put some lube in it, freed it up and cleaned it with electrical spray. Tested for continuity and nada. I recently rebuilt my headlight switch and wondered maybe this was similar. Sure enough it was. With a small screw driver, gently pry each side out and slowly lift it out. Be very careful not to lose the small plastic tip and spring. I did! I had to rob one from an extra defroster switch from my old 73 parts. You have to gently bend the side metal tab holding the metal rocker in place to get it out. Just bend one of the two sides. Clean it up and assemble. Gently squeeze the metal side back in to hold the rocker in place. When putting it back together, push it together flat and it snaps right into the housing. I tried at an angle first and it bound up. Now is a good time to check your bulb and clean it up as well. Before: Apart and cleaned up: Together (You can see the black plastic tip pushing against the rocker. Don't lose it.): Working:

Just got a text from the guy I sold it to. No more rust, repainted exterior and some interior. All new weatherstripping and shined up wheels. Looks good and he is very happy with it. Here's what it did look like, 110.zip

Zed you type faster than my finger pecking. To check the recall area for rotted aluminum hold a mirror under where the red arrow is in my picture, quick and easy to find but a whole can of worms if it's damaged.

You should give a little more information about your car than "Z". Apparently it's a 280Z since it has injectors. The noise is called "front-fire" or intake popping among other labels and it is pretty common with the 280Z's. Not clear why but the EFI system runs lean in some cases. The best fix that many of us have used is to cause the system to add a little extra fuel across the air flow range, using extra resistance on the coolant temperature circuit. Atlanticz has a great description. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html BUT. This is a fix for after you've confirmed proper fuel pressure, and ignition timing, and valve lash, etc. I'd give it a very thorough tune-up first.

i am thinking the same thing. the notches on the old cam sprocket seem to line up with the dowel pin holes. shouldnt be too difficult to do

Thanks Blue, just ordered two of them. One for me, one as a gift. Safari Gold rules!

Vin tag is on its way, you should get it this coming week. Unfortunately it doesn't come with ownership papers

I believe her car has the original TIU. Sorry to read of your problems with your beloved car Jai. Did you keep the original ECU, that might eventually come in handy to troubleshoot the problem. Chickenman is right, at least the problem should be much easier to diagnose & correct now.

Should she unhook the battery as well as OFF position? I've read that before but have know idea.