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For all those with the original style paper/cardboard glove box insert (left image) in their 240z, I found a cheap and easy way to upgrade to a plastic insert from a later 280z (right image). I picked my used 280z insert up for $10 on ebay a while back. Here is the picture of what I started with. A huge cut in the back of my cardboard insert from the prior owner. Its only gotten bigger since I've owned the car Old and new side by side. The 280z plastic insert will need to be trimmed to fit. There are various approaches, I chose to trim just the bottom tab and the made a new hole for the glove box door arm The finished product is much nicer than what I had in there originally. I did need to mount the glove box door first and then slide the new insert in. I also put screws into these front holes to hold it better. I probably could have trimmed down the side tabs as well and use the original holes, but this seemed like a much more secure way of mounting the insert. I will probably look to finish the bottom edge better and possibly heat the plastic to shape it better. This post has been promoted to an article

What does it look like underneath? How about in in the engine bay, especially around the battery tray and brake master? Is the car usually parked outside with the nose going downhill? If so, watch for rust around the hatch sill.

Well done. You have done a very neat job. I say that through clenched teeth because we were only about a month away from putting our own oscillator out there! I have been working on this with fellow Z owner Greg Hassen. I have a rally clock, but Greg has done most of the testing. He has found some variation between clocks so we have put an adjustment knob on ours. To be honest, I can’t see why there should be any variation; the clock runs off a synchronous motor. I do know that the little plastic gear on the rotor shaft has a crack in one or two clocks Greg has tested, and this could be the cause of the variations. The clock I have also has a crack on the rotor shaft gear as well, in fact it is missing a complete tooth! It occasionally stalls and I expect this could be the cause (though mostly it seems to keep going despite the missing tooth, the momentum of the gears might be enough to keep it going). The pulse duty-cycle also seems to have an effect on the likelihood of stalling (I think around 80% gave the best results on my clock). I say all this because the cracked gear seems to be a common problem. If any of your customers has this problem and don’t realise it, they might unjustly blame your circuit. You should probably have them check the gear before selling them your oscillator, or at least inform them that the problem could exist. Greg has been looking at replacement options for the cracked gear. I will try to include a photo of my cracked gear. You can use it in your dealings with customers if you like. I think you have done a very neat job. And having been beaten to it, Greg and I debated whether to continue with our project. We think we might (it would be very unsatisfying to just drop it after all the time we have put into it, so watch out, you might have some competition on your hands!), and I think we could probably bring it to market for, say, $98.50 ;-) And if there isn’t much of a market, or you have already saturated it, then maybe would could collaborate instead of compete (I’ll have to consult with our Global Strategic Business Development Manager: Greg). Eric

It's the land of 1000 lakes. You need to keep the windows up in the summer to keep out the mosquitoes.

The car is in Minnesota? Major rust issues may be lurking on the underside. Proceed with caution P.S... who needs an A/C in Minnesota?

if you have an air compressor, you might try pressurizing the tank. it may help popping the dents out. just cover your nuts.

its all about the rust and what you want in the end. If the body is sound then its a great deal, its a simple car to work on. If you are going to have a nice one you need a garage IMHO to store it, else the old rust monster will come and take hold. They are a lot of fun to drive. Hope it works out for you.

Welcome Danielvbro Mechanical issues are a walk in the park in these cars. Mechanically they are near bullet proof compared to others of this era. Rust and Bondo are the two biggies to watch for. When you find either, do a realistic estimate of your; wallet depth, time frame, your abilities and your desire to undertake the project. That said the price is right unless the body is badly rusted. @heyitsrama is right. Check at zhome.com. A lot of very useful information about what to look for and where to look for body damage when shopping for a Z. The price is great if all else is OK. You've come to the right place for help. The diagnostic hounds in this club love to get their teeth into new meat. Good luck.

I just put on 195/70 R14's Kumo Solus KH17's on mine. Got them from Tirebuyer. They are called a High Performance all season tire. Price wasn't bad either. Just put them on two weeks ago so not much testing so far..

What you are showing in your post is the distribution block/safety switch, the proportioning valve is at the back of the car above the diff. next to the rear distribution block. The easiest way is to remove the stock proportioning valve entirely and install the new adjustable proportioning valve up front in the engine bay. Like this,http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/wilwood-proportion-valve