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these pics are of the fuse holders that will hold auto-reset circuit breakers. one holds a 50 amp fuse that is the main power from the battery. the other feeds the head and tail lights

Another 60 km done on my new engine. Runs fine, idles fine at 800rpm, good power on the low end and feels very strong above 3000 rpms. Havent taken it higher then 5000 rpms yet but it feels like it will make power even a bit beyond 6000 rpm. And looks like I'm getting around the same fuel consumption as before with the su carbs and lower cr. As long as I'm careful with the throttle that is.

Lay under the driver's side with a 27mm socket for turning the crank nose bolt. Turn it towards the driver's side until this mark comes down to the bottom. get some kind of paint, White-Out or nail polish. A magic marker would work to I guess and mark it up real good so you can see it from the top side. The bottom right picture, "Timing Mark". When you get everything to TDC, zero, take the distributors cover off check to see if everything is lined up the stator's points and the rotor's to each other. The distance too by loosening those screws. here's the link to Blue's Tech Tips where I got the pictures for you to look at. I did this to mine and it makes a difference. Thanks Blue. http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html

If you didn't find the notch on the pulley and set it to zero it may still be wrong. You can be off by one gear tooth. There's a procedure in the FSM, Engine Mechanical chapter, Assembly section that describes all of this, with pictures. Whoever put the engine together was not using the manual, apparently..

Yes it is. Moving the wires straight across from one another should get you something, a slight hit at least. I think you said earlier it kicked back one time almost stopping the starter? To me that means you were close but had the timing too high.

Hey gang! Sorry to leave you all hanging for the rest of the week. I took me several days to get my new exhaust mocked up and installed... however.. SUCCESS! I just took the car out a few blocks, shifted through all of the gears -- no noises, no grinds, no hesitation. Everything is working just as it should. BIG THANK YOU to everyone who's been a part of this thread. Dave, Zed, Chas, Mark, et al -- you guys rock! Thanks for being pillars of support in my time of need! This would have been a way more intimidating project without your guys' encouragement. Now I just need to get used to my clutch engagement being so low -- I'm used to it being near the top of the pedal, and now it's a lot closer to the bottom. My neighbors must think I'm a complete newb at driving stick.

Panels are now in production. Well they will be on Monday:) These things were a PIA to make work. Although it seemed like a simple concept to me when I started it really wasn't. There is a lot of things to have happen in a very small area. Drivers side mimics the existing ECU cover and uses it's mounting screws. Good space to get to the dead pedal but you may have to adjust your driving style to get to it. Passengers side mounts using the existing upper trim screw and a piece of industrial velcro attached to whatever the black control box is above it. To get to the fuse box you loosen the trim screw, pull the panel away from the velcro and slide it out. The screw hole is slotted so you don't have to remove the screw. If this seems like a lot of work to change a fuse you probably should fix what's blowing your fuses before buying speaker panels! Here is a small sample of the scrap I made getting the fit, the vacuum forming and the CNC routing worked out. Now for the fine print. Price is $115.00 plus shipping for the pair. Right now I'm only saying they fit a 77 for sure as that is what I have here. I've lined up a 78 for testing. I'm looking for people with a 75 and 76 to test fit as well. So if you have a 77 you're good to go if you have a 75 or 76 and want to participate in my testing program PM me. I looked at pictures on line of the different year interiors and they all look the same to me. The clutch pedal is really really close to the grill. There may be cars where you have to dent the grill a little up front at the top so be prepared for that. I was more interested in keeping the dead pedal as clear as possible. There is 2" of clearance from the mounting lip to the ECU for speaker depth. You may be able to do a deeper speaker with a spacer ring and some grill mods but I'm not making any claims to that. The Pyle PLS502 fits as it is. PM me if you are interested in a set. Thanks Derek

And you have to look hard to see where the 2 ends meet. Nice job!

Excellent idea with the chrome door trim for the covers. Easy, simple, looks so much better!