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Maybe it was Monday morning,

No worries, I think I'm in good hands now. I spent an hour just getting things cleaned up and organizing -- putting parts and pieces into bins and containers -- to make sure I'm keeping track of everything before I go forward. I also mocked up the shafts with some wooden dowels screwed into a piece of scrap plywood, this way I can keep all of the gears, snaprings, shims, etc. etc. in order, straight and organized. Got some heavy-duty snapring pliers too, along with some new safety glasses and work-gloves to commemorate the occasion. I hope I'm doin' you guys proud.

Something we've discussed before on classiczcars.com: Post #9 in particular...

Im using the Kia door seal on the hatch (and doors) and I can't remember having that problem. I do remember rolling it on, sought of like it had to go around a corner because of the small lip. I also managed to get it in without cutting the seal. Btw: The Kia seals are an excellent alternative. Doors shut easy and firm, no slamming the door to get it shut.

Regarding the clips that hold the shifter boot to the console, I had a similar experience with a thicker than original boot. I used spring type paper clips instead of the Nissan boot clips. The spring clips come in various sizes and are the type that hold 20 or more pages together. They have the levers that open the clip and then fold back over the clip. Dennis

Glad you are sticking with the flat tops.... I miss mine. I sold my silver '73 240Z and am still kicking myself for doing that. Never had a problem with the carbs after I did the rebuild...even in traffic on the 5.

The mirrors are on most of the 70 GM cars. I had to make a bottom plate to make the angle fit better on my car. My bumper protectors and paint are original. I would not put them back on if I ever have the car re-painted.

I emailed Carl Beck last night, asked him if he had ever seen this before, "Hi Chris: NO - I’ve never seen that. That’s amazing. I guess a mistake was bound to happen at some point. Interesting how they “X” out the errors- and put a little NISSAN Logo above them. {NISSAN - hamburger}. Thanks for the pictures." Carl I hope this is like misprinted stamps that are worth millions of dollars, shall we start the bidding at $200,000

** Followup ** I ordered the replacement SS hard lines from ClassicTube, and after waiting 10 days with no notification or info from them, gave them a call back and was informed it would be about another 2 to 3 weeks. Was originally told about 7 to 10 days, so cancelled the order and ordered the 73 thru 76 SS lines from Zcardepot. I am happy to report that the only real difference is the slight downward angle of the inlet on the wheel cylinder. Carefully shaped the SS line to accommodate the new angle and the result was a perfectly fitting new hard and flex line on the rear driver side. Just need to order another Nissan flex line to do the passenger side. The only catch to the new line is the SS fittings are 11mm as opposed to the standard 10mm size. Now I have 9,10,11, &12mm flare wrenches. Bottom line for 77 and 78 280z owners is the earlier rear SS line from Zcardepot works perfectly fine. They look nice too and will probably never change in appearance.

I've struggled with what type of antenna to replace the broken original with. I first tried an 11" rubber ducky that didn't work very well, as well as a hidden antenna that mounted to the window; again not working too well. I decided it was time to investigate how to repair or replace the old semi-automatic antenna that Datsun included originally. The great feature of the Datsun antenna is that it is controlled by the radio head unit with a switch, allowing the driver (or passenger) the ability to raise or lower the antenna to the proper level to tune in stations. The original Datsun antenna had a modulator box already installed that allowed the switch to power one wire for up, the other for down, and use the body of the antenna for a ground; this is how the switch works too. The modern semi-automatic that I sourced just reverses the polarity to have it go up and down. I was able to find a diagram of a door lock actuator that would allow me to use the original Datsun radio switch and wiring while making the new antenna work by means of two relays. Essentially reversing the polarity of the output wires. The results are great! I can accurately tune into any station in my '72 240z's radio that I can in a modern car with a digital tuner (meaning the antenna performs as good). Full Write-Up with Pictures: http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2015/05/amfm-antenna-upgrade.html