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Update- Thank you all for your kind thoughts and prayers for Kathy. While I always had positive thoughts, frankly, I'm blown away. She is coming home today! Saturday - Tuesday in ICU. Wednesday, into a regular room and now being released today. I've never seen such a speedy recovery nor a hospital releasing someone so soon. Her Drs. are amazed at the speed of her recovery and can't find a reason to keep her in spite of their best efforts. Now we need to concentrate our prayers on Mrs. Warner. Don't know what went wrong. Doesn't matter. We all know what to do. You can't argue with success.

Hi everyone I want to apologize and explain to the members that have been patiently waiting for their parts. My wife Kathy has been very ill and has been in ICU. We thought everything was improving until a test came back that put everything into doubt. Now she is being moved to the main hospital to undergo more testing. As soon as life starts to return to normal I'll get back on the parts. Thank you everyone for your patience and please remember Kathy in your prayers. Mark

I love hearing Great News and this is Great News! I'm glad your burden has been lifted.

Don't take advice from parts store guys. Most of what the typical parts guy knows is what they heard from other people like you. Your retired Datsun "mechanic" gave strange advice. Or you misunderstood what he said. His suggestion of water "going in to the engine" and letting it sit for 24 hours then refilling with oil is odd. If you can run Skype, maybe you can use your computer to grab a picture. Or just take picture with whatever device you're using Skype from. In short, get a picture of the oil on the dipstick. Check the plugs as suggested. Has it been cold in Nampa? In your garage?

I've done a few restorations. I currently work at Benton Performance and its generally $80K to $125K to do a complete restoration on 901 chassis Porsche. We are finishing up the Peking to Paris 240Z build and that was a complete strip and rotisserie build and the customer will probably have over $80K in the car. The $80K estimate you received is reasonable given the unknowns the shop fears and the vague nature of your e-mail. We would not even send you an estimate based on your e-mail. You would have to bring the car in and pay for a vehicle safety and condition inspection ($260.00) before we would write an estimate. It would also take us a couple days to create the estimate. In California an estimate is a legal document and a commitment on the part of the shop and the customer. Shops have to be very careful and act in a very professional manner from the fist contact with the customer.

Time Vs Money Vs Skill I feel that anyone can sandblast a car and replace the flooring given patience and a borrowed mig welder; those are some of your largest expenses. See if you can borrow a mig welder from a friend and if you dont have any friends that weld its still going to be cheaper to buy a new mig from harbor freight. Then go down to the junk yard and buy a fender or some useless part to practice welding. Drill some holes and fill them, cut out a hole and weld it back in. Top tip: get some neodymium magnets to hold things together while welding and some copper (i use smashed 1/2" copper pipe.) to act as backing for hole filling. If you can figure out welding you can complete your body work That puts you in the position of calling a car shop and saying "hey i have this car i want primed and painted" instead of "i have this project that needs to be complete from the ground up" These cars still exist because guys like us spend the hundreds of hours required to fix them without paying an hourly rate. if you had time to learn how to paint you could do that too

I was quoted $5,000 to $7,000 just as DjWarner says. That's a quality paint job with them removing all the glass and reinstalling it. I would have to remove the side markers, bumpers and tail light assembly as well as the emblems. FYI No way in hell would I pay $80,000 just for paint. That's 8 more 240s to add to my "retirement fund".

First - Diagnose the problems. Do not just throw money at parts at them. Second - With those symptoms, do not try to start the car again. Don't risk hydrolocking the engine (That is when you have water in the cylinders. Water won't compress, so you tend to bend things at that point.) Water in the oil could be a blown head gasket, a cracked head, a cracked block, or even corrosion between the oil and water jackets. You'll need to pull the head and check.

I'm far from an experienced Weber tuner, but that's the main purpose of this post - I share everything as I'm learning. That way I can forward the information to others in a way that is easy to understand, rather than being so "pro" at it that you get too 'technical.' If I don't understand it - then I won't post it until I do. Most of the information I'm sharing comes from a ton of reading and from friends who know way more than I do and have been gracious enough to share their knowledge. I'm just sharing the love! Eventually, I want to extract all the important parts from the manuals/guides and re-write them in an easy-2-follow way for beginners to comprehend and avoid making things too complicated. It'll take time, which is why this post is a WIP. Thanks again for your kind words, Cliff! I'll be sure to update this post as I gather more information

Well I'm more than happy to help you teach me! I have a set just dying to get your help and help from others. I'm reading as much as I can, and you are adding more instructions with pictures. Thank You for taking the time for us to learn more. I really appreciate that and I'm sure future Weber guys will to. Thanks again for your detailed post! Keep us up with your progress when you have time. Cliff

Hey SiteUnseen! Your post is what inspired me to make a one-stop-shop for Weber newcomers. Figured the task of tackling Webers is daunting enough, so I hope I can help out others brave enough to journey deep into the rabbit hole - the insane obsession that is tuning DCOE Carbs I'll keep adding to it as time goes by

Hello Mike! (applause from the crowd) I'm a gasoholic myself and really appreciate your effort and your presence helps us all as a group. There's old strong coffee and ashtrays available. KEEP COMING BACK!!! Cliff W.

Sometimes the chokes won't come out. Weber makes some specialized tools, one of them is a special puller for removing stuck chokes. The one I had with a stuck choke couldn't easily be driven out. You can destroy the casting if you get too aggressive with a hammer and a drift....