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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/31/2015 in Posts

  1. Datsun Parts LLC, missing something? That's the joke of the day, congratulations.
  2. Helped Zup relocate his pristine twin unnaturally aspirated, super HICAS Z32 down to the south Z car garage - Prairie Grove division. It will undergo some injector therapy & a little tlc as well as keeping the silver 71 240 company during its refresh.
  3. Here are some photos of the battery setup in my 73. Nissan sells the proper sized battery in an all black case. It is a group 24 battery. Part number 999M1-NB24F. This part number places the positive terminal to the engine side. Originally (correctly) the positive terminal should be to the fender side under the inspection lid of the fender. This changes the part number to 999M1-NB24C. I am not completely sure of this second part number as it is currently covered by the battery cover/cap assembly in my car and it is cold outside. I know I wanted the positive terminal where it originally was supposed to be so I had to return the NB24F and get the one with the terminal to the opposite side. They sell both. Steve now reproduces both the cover and the cap as mentioned above. The caps came both with and without the 2 holes. He and I discussed this when I sent my "unholy" cap to him for reproduction. It is uncertain which came first---with or without the holes. My thoughts were that the cap without holes came first and that possibly out of concern for corrosion or combustion Nissan decided to revise the cap with holes to provide ventilation----a way of allowing sulfuric acid gases and moisture to dissipate or evaporate. Of course this could be complete bull$hit on my part.
  4. It seems like it's cooling problem is caused by a lack of circulation, a lack of volume and or a lack of heat transfer to the coolant. You've replaced the fan clutch (hopefully it has a lot of resistance) so presumably the fan is pulling enough air at idle to cool and a new water pump to make sure circulation is good. Crud build-up in the block and radiator not only reduce coolant volume but also interfere with heat transfer from the heat source to the coolant be it liquid or air. The heat transfer is increased greatly if the circulating coolant is touching metal. Crud buildup acts as an insulating layer. Cured the problem in mine with two GOOD flushes and sent the rad. out to be re-cored with additional layers to increase the volume. That made it much better. Temp would still rise under extreme conditions. When I eventually replaced the clutch fan (it seized) with a flex fan the engine never overheated again. Although I've not tried it, I think one could pull the manifolds and remove the expansion (freeze) plugs and clean out the block without removing the engine. Tips; If you're stuck in traffic not moving, shut the engine off. Mine always started easily so I wasn't concerned with blocking traffic. It won't create more heat if it's not firing. If you're moving slow, keep the RPMs as low as possible. If it is overheating, increase the heater control to hot and turn the blower on high. Better for me to overheat than the engine.
  5. The rails on pretty much every S30 are dented for just that reason. You'd think they would be strong enough, but they are not. They will crush if used to support the car. Even on rust-free cars, the rails are weak.
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