Leaderboard

IMO It's not necessary to separate the float bowl from the body unless it's leaking fuel from the connection.

These crack me up. For some reason the Democratic Debate might be funnier..

Great vintage promos, BGM! Minor detail on this one is that it's actually the 411 wagon that preceded the 510 intro in 1968.

There's tons of stuff on youtube.com about SUs. They really are simple. Take the 8 nuts off the intake studs, 4 per carb, and the whole assembly will slide right off. The only connections are the fuel lines and the vacuum advance tube on the front carb. Take a bunch of pictures as you disassemble them. Two separate piles, they are the same but opposite like looking in a mirror.

Here are some pics of them without the seal, looks a lot more subtle....which I like.

That is very kind bud. I have been driving her a lot more lately. And my love affair is back with a vengeance. My Z is about to get a lot more love (read as money) dolled out on it. To know I helped out my fellow man, well you just made my day buddy. My Z is not going anywhere anytime soon. Well unless some crazy person offers me obscene money for it... Nah, even then I am keeping it.

(sorry couldn't resist)

Finished my dyno run yesterday. This was my first time on a dyno so it was pretty exciting, Ended up with 238 peak whp and 215 tq. Not horrible, but I think we can do some more tweaking. But I am super happy with that power curve! This was on 91 octane. The 1st run (in Blue) is with the RAMAIR foam filters, and the red run is without filters. Good to know.

Haha, yeah its definitely slowed down. Ive been enjoying taking it out on cruises this summer. I had to replace the U joints in the half shafts, so that took a while. Next week it will be going on the dyno to get some final tuning done. I have some plans for this winter......stay tuned.

Rising ball in unisyn is not the technique for balancing. Here is how to do it: 1. Get motor hot. 2. Set idle to what you want (say 800 rpm) 3. Briefly stick the unisyn up to one carb mouth (with air box off) 4. Note where the ball (red plug) is. 5. Adjust the opening in the unisyn (knurled knob) 6. Repeat steps 3 to 6 until you get the ball near or above the middle (I like to have the red plug so the top aligns with a line in the clear tube,,,(see photo below where person has the bottom of the plug aligned). 7. Now move to the other carb with the unisyn and check the air flow. 8. Adjust the idle stop (air) into the second carb so the ball level matches the same level as carb 1. Tips: - Hand blip the throttle often and let the car settle before making a measurement. - start with jets down 2.5 turns from top most position. - start testing the idle air flow first. To do this disconnect the centre/short ball and socket link/rod of the linkage so that each carb is only resting on its idle stop screw. - before starting the procedure, adjust idle stop screws one at a time so that they visually just kiss (start to touch and move) the throttle valve, then give each 2 full turns as a starting point. - once the idle is balanced, reattach the linkage then turn the screw with spring that is up high on the linkage so that it opens both throttles to ~ 3000 rpm then adjust the unisyn to measure the higher airflow (knurled knob). Measure the front carb then match the rear by adjusting the off-idle balancing screw that is in the bar linking the carbs at the throttle body. - Once the idle and 3000 rpm air flows are balanced, have a look at the plugs then adjust the jet height to get good colour in each side (1,2,3 are coloured by front carb and 4,5,6 by rear). after adjusting jet, repeat steps 3 to this one,

Engine off, work the carb linkage by hand, It should feel smooth thru the entire range. Idle then WOT then idle. Push the linkage towards idle is there further movement? If so look for the cause. Lube all pivot points, & try it again. During the fast idle try lifting the pedal to see if the idle drops. I highly recommend ZTherapy's Just SUs DVD. It's the Gospel on SUs. As far as the Uni-syn goes I adjust the U-S(the center of the U-S screws in & out) so the ball is close to centered first, then I check the carb balance. I think you'll need to recheck the carb tuning.The only reason that I can think of to clip the springs is if you wanted more pedal pressure.