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We are all experienced enough to know that arguing on-line is a waste of time and usually makes us all look foolish... been there done that sadly. I think the best way to help others is to post accurate data based on scientific methods or many statistical observations when possible. If one has data to refute something just post it and be done with it. Try to add rather than take away. Let the readers of the future take what they want. We have nothing to prove. Live long and drive Z's Mr. Spock

Well said, Blue!! You are a gentleman who, 'walks the talk'. Thank you for your wisdom, kindness and guidance. Cheers, George

FAIW, Chevron Delo 15W-40 is a high detergent, high-zinc dino-oil formulated for diesel engines. I've found it cleans up my engine's innards pretty well, and it seems to be about the closest thing to the older formulations intended for cars such as ours. I feel the detergent content can be just as important as the zinc, as our engines typically don't burn very cleanly. Without proper scrubbing and suspension, the combustion products can precipitate out and polymerize in the engine. (That's how my Z's engine came to me from the PO.) I used Castrol GTX when I was a kid, and I ran the @#$% out of my poor '75 Z, putting significant miles on it. I never had a cam wear problem. I don't use Castrol GTX anymore, but I'll sometimes use Castrol Syntec in other engines. I once saw some pretty scary test results in which Castrol GTX wound up right at the bottom for protection of high pressure surfaces such as cams. That made me give up on the product. But I will say it really kept my engine clean -- very high detergent.

Easy to check relative gas height in bowls with straw from can of carb cleaner. When it's running good, pull hoses off vents and put straw down the vent. It will rest lightly on top of the float. Mark it at the vent fitting. Then do the other one. Then, when you're driving and it starts sputtering, put it in neutral, shut it off and coast to side of the road. Check them again. If one is down, and the fuel pressure is OK, might be a problem with that float or valve. A point on a float can touch the side of a bowl, restricting it's movement. Maybe hitting a bump could stick or unstick it. If so, a light touch with sandpaper on the side of the float will fix it. Doubt if that's it but it's possible.

This was laying in the trunk of my new barn find Z! New grille in box.

We all get caught up in the moment and make mistakes but if you're helping someone, who cares. For me, it's mostly alcohol related. I think I'll put the Edited Box in my signature.

Maybe you can get it running and the brake drums will free up. Mine did. I got mine running off a small gas can after it had sat for years. The gas tank was full of crud. Good luck and happy wrenching on your old friend. Cliff

Not trying to argue with you..but you're trying to re-invent the wheel. The evidence of adverse ZDDP reduction on flat tappet cams is already well documented ad-nauseum. If you choose not to believe it, that's your choice. As for myself, I have seen plenty of older flat tappet engines destroyed by using these new " Energy Star " motors. Mainly in Detroit Muscle cars but also a lot of Vintage British cars. It was an issue 10 years ago and still is today. I doubt that a Poll will reveal much in this particular case. The stock Nissan L series valve train has excellent metallurgy. That is a proven and documented fact. And it's going to have a very small data pool. And if you use a 10/40 wt or higher motor oil you will probably not run into the problem as these are not considered " Energy Star " classification. The problems are rampant in Forums outside of Nissan/Datsun, in engines that use flat tappet cams, such as GM, Ford, Pontiac, Chrysler VW/Audi etc. Those are the ones that are full of failures directly due to ZDDP reduction. And there are literally Millions of data points out there. I've seen enough first hand and trust the advice of the Professional engine builders that I deal with to convince me. Mind you, I've been an Amsoil user for over 20 years.. but even Amsoil has recently changed and it's oils aren't as good as they once were. As far as theory vs actual fact? I trust the results of independent oil testing laboratories such as Blackstone Labs. And white papers by SAE and technical articles on Motor oils by Race Car Engineering, Race Car Tech, Race Car Engine, David Vizard, Joe Gibbs Racing, my engine building shops and others. With respect, just because you or a small sampling of people don't have a problem does not mean the problem doesn't exist

Drove up to Eureka Calif and back home, nice pleasant drive with the radio playing through the twin 8" speaker box I have in back. Very fun drive, car ran great.

More rust repair pics All interior frame areas were covered with Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating for rust protection Heres the damaged frame rail. I got a new piece fabricated by a local fab shop