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Yes, the 3012, 3013, 3015, 3016, and 3038 are the exact same shock with the only difference being the gland nut size and the spacer at the bottom. You guys might also look for the 3099 which is the MR2 rear shock. I has a little better rebound damping then the ones above. You will need to make your own spacers and drill out the "D" shaped hole in the OEM upper insulators. You can use the 3099 (or any of the above shocks) in any corner of the car with the proper length spacer underneath. There is also the Rabbit shock but you'll have to source your own gland nut and, again, make the correct length spacer. I forgot the Rabbit shock part number.

My rubber boots were also hard-as-stone. I used a heat gun (not sure if a hair dryer will get hot enough). They stayed soft for long enough to put them on easily. Once they're on, I'm not really concerned how hard they get. I also made a crude-but-effective tool to remove the sender unit. Fuel Tank Refresh

I just realized that I hadn't bragged on myself for (also with Blue's awesome write up) replacing both rear wheel bearings. The left one had been making a pretty annoying noise, but now it's fixed. This job was TOUGH though! Those peened nuts are on tight, and there's hardly any room to turn a breaker bar on them, and on top of that just keeping the wheels from turning so you can unbolt them is a trick. It took me the better part of two weekends two get it done.

Thanks to Blue and my friend Roger Schmidt, I now have a working tachometer. I should also mention Carl B. and John Huff for their wiring diagrams (that Blue showed me) that finally showed this electrical no-nothing how to wire in the tach with the pertronix ignition and 3 ohm coil. But not only do I have a working 240Z tach, ALL MY GAUGES ARE NOW FUNCTIONAL! Even the old clock! I took the clock out, took it out of its can, jiggled around and sprayed it with PB Blaster and lo and behold, it started ticking again. Ran it a couple of days on a 12 volt source until I had the speed adjusted, and back into the dash it went. My fuel gauge hadn't been working, but that was just a matter of using a blow dryer to heat those damn nailhead rubbers until they were soft enough to get the connectors hooked up (again, based on advice from this forum). Then, my Ammeter and temp gauge were squirrelly, (they had worked at first, but quit) but on closer inspection I saw that the faceplate was loose and was pinching the needles. Simple matter of reattaching the faceplate and it is working fine. Now I get to put the heater panel back in and hook up all those damn control cables. My map light works, my glovebox light works, all instrument lights work and the dimmer works. Same for headlights (high and low), turn signal, emergency flashers, side markers, brakes, reverseThe AM radio works, even the auto-tune still works, and the only thing not working now is the antenna. I bought a new electric antenna and the old switch does work, but I'm going to need to put a relay in to make them work together. The windshield wipers are SLOW but it's the original motor. The washer tank and sprayers work too, but not great, it's time for a new pump. Oh yeah, my inspection light works! OK, sorry, now I'm starting to brag, but any of you that have spent any time chasing down electrical gremlins know what I'm talking about. Thanks for the advice on how to get to the gauges too (I found removing the heater panel to be the way to go). I really need to post a video showing her out on the road. She runs great, sounds awesome and looks beautiful. Just waiting on bumpers (from Futofab)!

or get the complete 5 piece set and take all the guess work out of what you need. http://www.240zrubberparts.com/apps/webstore/products/show/4423585 Steve

I always tune my carbs in a suit with French cuffs and cuff links, Doesn' t everybody?

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